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If ur NA u shouldn't have problems with heat. Before I upgraded to Mishimoto rad, I was running oem rad on track days with temps over 105 in summer at Buttonwillow Raceway.
I am NA, so hopefully it will be fine. I have had to run cool-down laps at Buttonwillow before, due to water temps (no oil temp available) with no aero. My hope is the extra pressure in front of the radiator will help to keep airflow similar over the radiator and not get any worse.
^^Andrew 3k for a full under body is pretty reasonably. Only problem I see is that it's made out of carbon and once its cracked you will cry lol. Full under body is worth it when you have maxed out all other down force option. You see s2000s with wings and splitter. You don't see s2000s only with a full under body without other downforce. In my opinion you really don't need the under body for a street car.
I agree, and I do plan on utilizing a wing and splitter, but eventually tying it all together with a flat underbody and appropriate vents/cooling mods. I showed a picture in my post of people using corrugated sheets and I plan on using that for the major areas, while using alumalite for the front splitter. Corrugated sheets are cheap and easy to modify/manipulate, so I don't mind the time/cost/effort if it doesn't make a noticeable change.
Originally Posted by thomsbrain
Finished up my alumalite splitter and aluminum dam. It is reinforced and flush to the front jack point so that you can jack up the front of the car with the splitter still attached. It extends into the wheel cavities, completely covering the LCAs from the airstream, and extends back to the rear subframe brace. I'm going to order a couple more turnbuckles to add a little more stability, but I can stand on it already (I weight about 200 pounds). There's a couple turnbuckles hidden on the far edges inside the bumper, and DevSport mounts in the middle. I briefly tested it up to 70 MPH but haven't had it on track yet. Probably spent about $350 for all the materials, hardware, and a hand-riveter.
We'll see how temps do on track. I have another hood to vent but haven't gotten around to it yet. There's adequate uncovered area at the rear of the bay to exit air, and I removed the bay-to-fender plastics so hot air can exit through the fenders. I blanketed the header to help a bit. But the oil pan is still partially covered from free air so we'll just have to see how it does without an external oil cooler. You can also see the chassis-mounted APR-250 poking up in back there. Next projects are front tire dams and splitter endplates, larger wing endplates, diffuser, and then tying it all together with a full flat-undertray with active cooling for the transmission and diff.
Just HPDE here, so no rules to worry about. Just having fun with the process.
Nice!!! Any pics underneath the car and of the mounting?
Does anyone know of a good online source for alumalite or am I better off trying to source it locally? I live in SoCal, so it shouldn't be too hard I would imagine...
Nice!!! Any pics underneath the car and of the mounting?
Does anyone know of a good online source for alumalite or am I better off trying to source it locally? I live in SoCal, so it shouldn't be too hard I would imagine...
I got mine from a sign shop. They'd never had a request for blank sheets but they were able to order and deliver some for me. I think I paid about $150 per sheet delivered. I used one sheet for this and have maybe 20% of it left over.
These are best pics I have from making it:
You can see the mounting holes for the DevSport frame mounts there, plus the rubber well nuts perched on top of spacers and washers towards the rear of the splitter. The well nuts nestle up inside existing subframe holes, then expand and grab on to the hole when the bolt is tightened. All the mounting points (DevSport, turnbuckles and well nuts) and have fender washers on the underside of the splitter to spread the load.
The red rectangle is the front jack point, covered in plasti-dip for grip. The alumalite is doubled-up in that spot (glued together), plus there are several layers of aluminum flashing on top of that to spread the load and prevent anything from bending. There are also several layers of aluminum flashing on the bottom of the splitter in the same place, with plasti-dip covering for grip again. The red helps you easily place the jack in the correct spot to lift the car. I can lift the car and get it on jack stands no problem with the splitter in place.
I used door jam edging from Amazon to hide the messy cuts on the alumalite. It was hard to find some that was thick enough to grab the alumalite. This stuff has metal inside and took a lot of bending, banging and clamping to get on. Pain in the butt.
The hidden turnbuckles hang on to the splitter just behind the far corners of the aluminum air dam. They mount to the headlight supports. The exposed front turnbuckles are mounted the bumper rail. For the air dam, I just used thin aluminum flashing from home deport, bent it into a long 90' angle with a 2x6 and a hammer, then sliced up one edge into strips so that it could be curved into the bumper's shape. Then I taped it into place on the splitter against the bumper cover, removed the splitter with the dam taped on and riveted the dam into place. Cheap and easy door jam edging from O'Reillys finished it off and protects the bumper cover from being scratched by the flashing. I can now remove either the bumper cover or the splitter first; there's no particular order that has to be followed.
The flashing is unfortunately too thin and weak to survive as tire spats or end plates, so I'll need to source thicker aluminum for those.
Here you can see how the splitter extends into the wheel cavities to shield the LCAs from wind. Took a few test fits and trims to clear the tire and lower ball joint at all steering angles and suspension positions. I also extended the splitter an inch or two behind the front fender liner to try to snag a little of the air being pushed down by the tire. Who knows if that works or not.
I have some 2" plastic lawn edging with 90' angle mounting tabs that would be perfect to make an additional dam under the leading edge of the splitter, but I thought I'd test without it first so I can compare if that actually helps or not.
Of course, this could all fall apart the first time I hit triple digits or encounter a speed bump in a parking lot.
since there arent much options for ap1 canards that i liked (and not wanting to spend j's racing amounts of money) i decided to try my hand a making my own
still a work in progress, not sure if im going to use these or make them into a mold to be able to make more later on. also still need to do the upper canards aswell
wetting them out half ass trimmed closer shot, they need plenty of love still here is the idea for the upper canard
I am NA, so hopefully it will be fine. I have had to run cool-down laps at Buttonwillow before, due to water temps (no oil temp available) with no aero. My hope is the extra pressure in front of the radiator will help to keep airflow similar over the radiator and not get any worse.
Self-quoting for continuity.
With the new splitter, I had water temp problems at Thunderhill West in 80 degree weather. Hit 225 F after 15 minutes of hot lapping and figured it was time to pit. I assume the oil temps were pretty freaking hot if the coolant got that hot. Cool-down laps weren't terribly effective at bringing the temps down. Temps came down quickly while creeping around the paddock with the A/C and heat on. So I don't think I have enough airflow through the engine bay right now to satisfy the stock radiator. Considering TrackSpec hood vents and/or MrSideways radiator options.
As for balance, I had a little high-speed push with 7 degrees AOA on the APR-250. Car had noticeably more grip at speed than it did on my last track day with these 4-year-old, cycled-out RS3s. Really liked the braking from 80+.
Looking good Scoot, I wonder how these will turn out.
im hoping good. Additional material for the uppers brought me to about $50-60 in total but i still have 2 packs of fiberglass cloth left. Hell of alot cheaper than the j's canards, but obviously these are neither carbon or j's....but they are substantially larger. So hoping for all the down forces haha
Originally Posted by freq
The lower canards, will you be opening up the brake ducts?
Nice work.
the previous owner did that unfortunatly...he cut them out completley so i could install a simple braket. I did purchase some ducts that are about perfect size i plan to bond to the backside as well as the brake ducting hose.
that said i just layed the uppers, hopefully they turn out as good as the lowers
I should also mention i run a diy plywood splitter aswell A minor off cracked the supports. I can stand on the splitter, but a frontal hit it will break/tear the aluminum before it bends my frame rails
04-25-2017, 01:49 PM
