Voodoo_S2K

Looks like you might be a little too far forward on the trailer, but probably okay.

I don't like how the rear straps are sitting on the frame of the trailer. They could chafe. I'd also prefer to see the hooks attached to the trailer not be at a 90 degree angle, but flat so that the load is along the stronger part of the hook. However you are somewhat limited in that regard.

usafstud

I plan on moving the car back a little bit once i get new straps with ratchets for the rear. I am concerned about chaffing since the hook is flush with the rear hook points. I may be able to avoid this if i cross them to the rear side corner mounts.

skahre

I used some through the wheel strap type straps for the first couple of years of towing and was never really happy with the setup. Like others have mentioned, it is pulling on the alignment. I never could be sure if it was actually moving things around but I always worried about it. After I towed from Virginia to Atlanta last year, I knew I had to come up with something better because the car had moved around on the trailer some. I got Mac'c Custom tie downs to make me some straps that had the mini T-hooks sewn directly on the straps and they are awesome. I have them set up like drawing A that usafstud posted and it works great. I can crank the crap out of the straps and the car is very secure. The load is never put on the alignment and there is not much downward pressure either. One thing I did learn is that, at least on my 18' trailer, I ended up getting the ratchets for the front set up so the hook is directly on the ratchet instead of one where these rachet has a short strap and then the hook. If the ratchet has much distance between the ratchet and the hook, it is a pain in the butt to get to the ratchets as there are positioned underneath the front of the car.

Vyndictive

This.

OP - Sounds like you haven't left yet. All that is keep your car from shifting laterally on the trailer is the tire friction. The way you have it strapped now only supports forward-backward shift. Hit a bump mid exit ramp with a little too much speed and it could slip off the side. (Wet wood, too much speed, higher center of gravity on the trailer, etc) I'm not saying its going to happen, I'm saying under the right conditions its more likely.

I have trailered my S quite a bit. I cross the straps front and back and run as close to the corners of the trailer as I can. I use the mounting points in the chassis and use T-Hooks because that's what I already had. They have worked to this point with no issues.

Some folks say don't set the parking brake, but I always do. That aids in the fore & aft support lost by crossing the straps. On long trips I also lock my steering wheel.

Regardless of if you listen to the way that I do it, I can say for sure you don't have enough lateral support with the way you have the straps run now.

usafstud

Here is an update.

I got ratchet straps yesterday for the rear.

I moved the s2000 back a little bit. Crossed the rear. The front strap was too short to cross. I may have to get new longer straps.

Feed back is welcomed.

cracknut

I have also trailered my S numerous times.
1) Absolutely cross the straps.
2) Absolutely leave the car in neutral.
3) I never tow with the e-brake on b/c the car slips around on the floor in my TPD if I do. Better to allow it to roll a tiny fraction as that's a slower and more gentle weight transfer.
4) Use 10k lbs straps. In a panic stop situation you want plenty of "headroom."
5) If the trailer sways or bobs up and down, shift the car forward a bit on the trailer or get a load distributing hitch.

I'll say it again - the best towing decision I made was welding loops onto the subframes. I can load the car up and be ready to go in <20min. The only time I used R-hooks was to tow it down to TCDesign so they could weld on the loops.

usafstud

Got the front crossed use the upper rail.

BlueBarchetta

I've towed my S longish distances on an open trailer. I also grew up on a horse farm and have been pulling various trailers for more than 30 years. I don't want to be critical but here's my input:

1. I'm concerned where you have the straps attached to the trailer, particularly in front. You really should be attaching to D rings, not to rails on the trailer. Absent D rings, I'd want to be attached to something more substantial than that thin rail in front.

2. I've spoken at length to the folks at Mac's Custom Tie downs. They are very clear about NOT crossing the straps. I realize this is a big point of debate, but I'd tend to believe the people who do extensive testing of the straps. If you are crossing, at most I'd cross the fronts, but never the back.

3. Most everyone tows with the car in neutral to save wear on the trans syncros, and most everyone will tell you to set the parking brake. This is only problematic with hot brakes leaving the track.

4. Regarding will it tow well as loaded. I have a new F150 with a lot of capability (1650 lbs payload, 11,300lbs tow rating, 17,000 GCWR). F150's can vary all over the place with weight ratings. So, not knowing your specific truck, you need to be mindful of some specific issues:
a. Payload rating for the truck. You can find this on a sticker on the drivers door. This is the total amount of weight you can put on/in the truck. This counts passengers, cargo, and the tongue weight of the trailer
b. tongue weight of the trailer. Try to have between 10-15% of the total trailer weight on the tongue. This will tell you where to position the car on the trailer. Absent sway control for the trailer/hitch, I'd try to go closer to the 15% figure. Considering the long distance you are driving, you should really find a scale and get everything weighed. If you live rurally, most grain elevators have them, as will livestock feed stores, etc. If you live in an urban area, just try to find a truck stop, most of them have scales.
c. make sure to stay within the capabilities/ratings for the truck regarding tow rating, payload, and gross combined weight rating (total of truck, things in/on it, and weight of trailer)

Lastly, stop frequently, and check your straps. Especially, I'd stop after no more than an hour at first, then every 2-3 hours at most after that. Straps can work loose, and you don't want to find that out at a critical braking moment. Also, be very wary of your tire pressures.

Good luck on your move

Voodoo_S2K

Excellent point here. I usually pull over after driving for 5-10 miles and do my first check of the straps then.

usafstud

you think D-ring mounts are something I can weld on to the frame of the trailer in the future?