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So I've done some research on this switching from an 06 back to an 05 ABS system. In usual honda fashion it looks like it's a total re invention of the wheel. Not one brake component right down to the rubber lines to the wheels is a match between the two via part numbers.
So the 06 system uses a different booster, Different master, different lines to the pump and different lines from the pump to the rubber lines to the wheels and then those are different.
The 05 system also adds a proportioning valve between the abs pump and the rear lines. This isn't a small change, this is installing an entirely different brake system in the car. Thanks Honda.
*edit, I didn't check rear rubber lines to the wheels. I think those might be the same*
I'd be willing to bet that the physical prop valve on the 05 was replaced with electrical wizardry inside the 06 modulator assy. If going without ABS, you will probably need to install a manual prop valve to regain whatever balance is lost vs just pulling the fuse.
I'd be willing to bet that the physical prop valve on the 05 was replaced with electrical wizardry inside the 06 modulator assy. If going without ABS, you will probably need to install a manual prop valve to regain whatever balance is lost vs just pulling the fuse.
Correct, that's in my box of parts waiting to go on. I now have a deadline to do it. I'm getting knee surgery before the end of the year and If I don't get it swapped I doubt I'll have the mobility to do it till mid spring.
Took it back to the drag strip now that the weather is in the mid 50's. Only go 2 passes cause it was a mad house. Attempted 1st pass on Snow tires (internet suggestion). That was DUMB. All i did was spin. Bu 2nd pass I strapped on some old RE71R's from the autox car and went 12.9@109.59. I rode the limiter in 4th through the finish and bounced it in 1st and 2nd gear. So I"m sure the car has a low 12. 5th gear shift would have yeilded a 110-111 trap speed. Anyway, camera shut off for he 12 second pass but here is the snow tire pass. https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e9&oe=5AC57C97
I looks like you did rev it to 9k or close to 9k in the vid. Feel better now reving high lol Car looks good!
Oh god yes it feels good pulling to 9k. I had the shift light set at 8800 for double red with the limiter at 9k. The run in the video I think most shifts were in the 8600 to 8700 range. 1st Red came on at 8700. The 2nd pass (which I have no video darn it) I hit the limiter in almost every gear. Double Red to Limiter in 1st and 2nd happen much to quickly. And then I rode the limiter though the lights. I've driven some quick cars over the years. This was the first time I've driven this car and the thoughts came through my head "this thing is actually fast now". Previously with the K24 I've always thought it fel like a quick S2000 but it never felt "fast". It was always just not as quick as my daily volvo. Now it's MUCH faster. It pulls very similar to a 911 GT3. (car I had many many track hours in). It's going to pain me dearly to put the limiter back at 8k. If i were a street car I'd leave the limiter at 9k and put a 4:30 final drive in and it would be unreally quick as a daily.
Last edited by Mrsideways; 12-15-2017 at 06:53 AM.
What advantage will 8k have over 9k (or for that matter 10k)? Valves? Valve Springs? Retainers? Piston pins? Rod bolts? Will the crank, rods, pistons, cams, or lifters even care? 4Piston probably has a good handle on this, what did they say the maintenance would be with the higher rev limit? In a race where there is no gain in position from a higher limit, you can always short shift. But when it counts, in time trials, qualifying, reeling in a competitor in the final laps or defending in the final laps, the extra power in an engine that just keeps producing more might be useful.
Of course, in a wt/hp class it would be more important to maintain a wide power band outside the measured rpm range. That could still involve higher revs, but with timing pulled or equivalent to reduce power levels.
What advantage will 8k have over 9k (or for that matter 10k)? Valves? Valve Springs? Retainers? Piston pins? Rod bolts? Will the crank, rods, pistons, cams, or lifters even care? 4Piston probably has a good handle on this, what did they say the maintenance would be with the higher rev limit? In a race where there is no gain in position from a higher limit, you can always short shift. But when it counts, in time trials, qualifying, reeling in a competitor in the final laps or defending in the final laps, the extra power in an engine that just keeps producing more might be useful.
9k blows my dyno numbers for my classing in Nasa. In fact for TT4 I can only run like 7800 iirc.
9k blows my dyno numbers for my classing in Nasa. In fact for TT4 I can only run like 7800 iirc.
If I understand the rules correctly, NASA uses the 7 highest hp readings from 8 readings up to 2000rpm below peak power and up to 8 readings in the 2000 rpm range above peak power. Meanwhile, I would imagine you would need power over a range about 40% slower than the shift point to have flexibility in traffic and after the occasional bobble. If peak power was at 7800, the bottom of the range would be down to 4700 rpm. Another strategy would be to hold the 7000 rpm or 6500 rpm power level to 9500 and try to keep it full below that. If the rules counted a 4000rpm range to the peak then peak could be at the top. But if it is only 2000rpm if the peak is at max rpm, then that part of the curve below that point has to be close. The 156 head and smaller RR3 cam would be part of achieving that.
That would meet the wt/hp ratio of the class while providing more when running outside the measured range. This should maximize average power over the lap.
If I understand the rules correctly, NASA uses the 7 highest hp readings from 8 readings up to 2000rpm below peak power and up to 8 readings in the 2000 rpm range above peak power. Meanwhile, I would imagine you would need power over a range about 40% slower than the shift point to have flexibility in traffic and after the occasional bobble. If peak power was at 7800, the bottom of the range would be down to 4700 rpm. Another strategy would be to hold the 7000 rpm or 6500 rpm power level to 9500 and try to keep it full below that. If the rules counted a 4000rpm range to the peak then peak could be at the top. But if it is only 2000rpm if the peak is at max rpm, then that part of the curve below that point has to be close. The 156 head and smaller RR3 cam would be part of achieving that.
That would meet the wt/hp ratio of the class while providing more when running outside the measured range. This should maximize average power over the lap.
Yea he issue is my peak is at Max rpm. I've never spun it high enough to see i start dropping. I wonder what kinda power it would make at 10k. No I don't cause I'll never rev it there.
12-07-2017, 06:12 AM
