More DE than racer
#1
More DE than racer
I researched some old threads but would appreciate advice.
I've been doing DE's for 20 years and i'm a pca instructor (8 years).....had a highly modified 944 turbo for many years....actually still have it. I took the s2000 to the track (because I threw a rod on the 944t) just to have a car to instruct my students. I really wasn't expecting much, I mean......really how good could this car be....I was blown away. This is an 06 with 88K that I bought on a whim for my wife because I've never owned a convertible. I came home and pointed to the 944t and said F that...this is my new track car. I drove all day....the oil color was perfect and didn't move a millimetre on the dipstick. 944 was a half quart or more per day. And the 944 was a handfule to drive.....this was like a Sunday cruise....so smoooooooth. balanced and predictable.
I just did my second event with the s2k and I'm still looking for the limits on the grip. Sure guys with higher HP cars can pull away on the straights but this thing handles beyond expectations...I'm just running dunlop direzzas 225 and 255 setup with some hawk pads and fresh brake lines....other than that...bone stock.
So a couple questions.
One...the stock clutch was slipping a bit today......do most people just replace with stock for track? I'm sure its the original so I think I'm just going to put in a fresh new one? is that the right call? Or is there something more aggressive to consider?
two. IF and I mean IF was to start modding the car I was thinking two things. ( already did pads and brake lines.....I don't really consider that a mod.
thanks in advance for any advice
I've been doing DE's for 20 years and i'm a pca instructor (8 years).....had a highly modified 944 turbo for many years....actually still have it. I took the s2000 to the track (because I threw a rod on the 944t) just to have a car to instruct my students. I really wasn't expecting much, I mean......really how good could this car be....I was blown away. This is an 06 with 88K that I bought on a whim for my wife because I've never owned a convertible. I came home and pointed to the 944t and said F that...this is my new track car. I drove all day....the oil color was perfect and didn't move a millimetre on the dipstick. 944 was a half quart or more per day. And the 944 was a handfule to drive.....this was like a Sunday cruise....so smoooooooth. balanced and predictable.
I just did my second event with the s2k and I'm still looking for the limits on the grip. Sure guys with higher HP cars can pull away on the straights but this thing handles beyond expectations...I'm just running dunlop direzzas 225 and 255 setup with some hawk pads and fresh brake lines....other than that...bone stock.
So a couple questions.
One...the stock clutch was slipping a bit today......do most people just replace with stock for track? I'm sure its the original so I think I'm just going to put in a fresh new one? is that the right call? Or is there something more aggressive to consider?
two. IF and I mean IF was to start modding the car I was thinking two things. ( already did pads and brake lines.....I don't really consider that a mod.
- I'm thinking seats... for weight and better support.
- Suspension....just to lower and firm up a bit. Don't want to go crazy and want to be able to adjust to its not rock hard on street. Some advice here would be great. Does is really make a big difference? LIke I said the stock grip is damn impressive but I do get some body roll which doesn't inspire confidence. I do plan to drive on the street as well so if the answer is stick with stock you won't like it on the street that's fine.
thanks in advance for any advice
#4
Typically you upgrade the pressure plate to something like the ACT H021 for better grip but retains good drivability, AP1 flywheel and stick with OEM clutch disc and bearings.
Some people will tell you if you are changing the seat, you should be doing the whole roll bar, harness, hans device. But just doing the seat is OK. (fight me)
OEM dampeners are decent but not really meant for super sticky tires and high spring rates. Some people swap out the stock springs for the Swift Rspecs. But if you are already on 10+ year old dampeners, something like Koni Yellows are a reasonable cost dampener. A lot of people will tell you just save your money until you want to drop $2000 on some Ohlins DFV
Those camaro drivers are just pussies. The S2000 in no ****ing way can keep up with a competently driven ZL1 unless we're talking about some go-kart track or parking lot course
Some people will tell you if you are changing the seat, you should be doing the whole roll bar, harness, hans device. But just doing the seat is OK. (fight me)
OEM dampeners are decent but not really meant for super sticky tires and high spring rates. Some people swap out the stock springs for the Swift Rspecs. But if you are already on 10+ year old dampeners, something like Koni Yellows are a reasonable cost dampener. A lot of people will tell you just save your money until you want to drop $2000 on some Ohlins DFV
Those camaro drivers are just pussies. The S2000 in no ****ing way can keep up with a competently driven ZL1 unless we're talking about some go-kart track or parking lot course
#5
Funny, my father in law has probably similar time doing DE, is an instructor, etc... who went down the 944 turbo rabbit hole. He got rid of it and ended up in an Elise and it's perfect for him.
Only caution from me is with your level experience you'll find the limits of the stock setup fairly soon. Brake system, safey (roll bar, seat, etc.), going square. Yes they are fun and capable but can goad you into "modding" away and spending a lot, potenially more than buying a more modern, faster car.
I'm sure some will debate my statements but that's my experience.
Only caution from me is with your level experience you'll find the limits of the stock setup fairly soon. Brake system, safey (roll bar, seat, etc.), going square. Yes they are fun and capable but can goad you into "modding" away and spending a lot, potenially more than buying a more modern, faster car.
I'm sure some will debate my statements but that's my experience.
#6
Possibly silly question but what is the benefit of a strong pressure plate? I don't seem to have any issues when I let go of the clutch pedal when driving hard on track.
#7
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#8
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You got bit! Similar situation here.. Been solo with the PCA for a few years now and purchased my AP1 as a cheaper track alternative to my 996.. After the first event I was head over heels for the S2000's track capability.
I mainly use my S2000 for DE's and some light Sunday driving:
Clutch - I just replaced mine with a ACT Street Clutch and Flywheel kit. First event with it was yesterday and after break-in it performed great during long hot track runs. It's also super smooth for the 2 hour drive home.
Suspension - There's a lot of good opinions here. It sounds like you know what to look for for suspension setup and adjustability. Checkout Rockstar Garage's Feal 441 coilovers. A good bit of R&D went into them for what their price is.
I mainly use my S2000 for DE's and some light Sunday driving:
Clutch - I just replaced mine with a ACT Street Clutch and Flywheel kit. First event with it was yesterday and after break-in it performed great during long hot track runs. It's also super smooth for the 2 hour drive home.
Suspension - There's a lot of good opinions here. It sounds like you know what to look for for suspension setup and adjustability. Checkout Rockstar Garage's Feal 441 coilovers. A good bit of R&D went into them for what their price is.
#9
If you're doing this for 20 years, no neophyte. You can decide on your rollbar, harness and seat. Keep in mind, it is tight in there and not everything fits.
Most of the shocks offered are a cartridge in a lower mount. The rear shock is pretty short; OEM thought short enough to pay for an external, piggyback reservoir. The OEM shocks are also mono-tube. Any move to a twin tube like the Koni would be a step backwards. One big S2k advantage is that Penske offers their 7500DA shocks, which include a base valve, for about $3600, not much more than some cartridge setups. Of course, the Penske's can be revalved to just about anything you want by a variety of race shock shops.
Karcepts makes an easily adjustable front and rear torsion bar anti-roll bars with unique curved aluminum arms. Virtually any front and rear roll stiffness you want for a reasonable cost.
Brakes are a week point. Cooling is inadequate and the rotors, both front and rear, don't have enough heat capacity for a car of the S2k's weight and speed on track. Front duct kits are available for a nominal cost and there are a variety of brake options. In the rear, Urge Designs and Sakebomb garage offer rear brake kits. Urge uses a modified OEM caliper, Sakebomb uses an RX7 rear brake. In front, Girodisc with OEM caliper or a variety of big brake kits.
There are a lot of discussions on oil pan baffles. A very fast NASA TT5 racer who runs Hoosier A7s on 10" wide rims runs with no pan modifications. His secret? Keep the oil level at full. He says the pickup is so close to the bottom of the pan pickup is never an issue...as long as it wasn't low in oil level.
The Honda F-series/K-series are phenomenal engines with lots of potential. I'd just leave it alone. On track, a lightweight flywheel makes reving the engine easier on downshifts.
People regularly run high mileage engines at the track. It is also a high rev engine. If you are running it to 9000 rpm I'd look at the valve springs and maybe the valves, retainers, keepers. A dropped valve often turns the whole engine into scrap.
Lots of tire options. Some people run as wide as 315 front/335 rear. 255 square is a lot more common; it is the size of the STR autocross class. 17x9 wheels for that class are inexpensive from Tirerack
Most of the shocks offered are a cartridge in a lower mount. The rear shock is pretty short; OEM thought short enough to pay for an external, piggyback reservoir. The OEM shocks are also mono-tube. Any move to a twin tube like the Koni would be a step backwards. One big S2k advantage is that Penske offers their 7500DA shocks, which include a base valve, for about $3600, not much more than some cartridge setups. Of course, the Penske's can be revalved to just about anything you want by a variety of race shock shops.
Karcepts makes an easily adjustable front and rear torsion bar anti-roll bars with unique curved aluminum arms. Virtually any front and rear roll stiffness you want for a reasonable cost.
Brakes are a week point. Cooling is inadequate and the rotors, both front and rear, don't have enough heat capacity for a car of the S2k's weight and speed on track. Front duct kits are available for a nominal cost and there are a variety of brake options. In the rear, Urge Designs and Sakebomb garage offer rear brake kits. Urge uses a modified OEM caliper, Sakebomb uses an RX7 rear brake. In front, Girodisc with OEM caliper or a variety of big brake kits.
There are a lot of discussions on oil pan baffles. A very fast NASA TT5 racer who runs Hoosier A7s on 10" wide rims runs with no pan modifications. His secret? Keep the oil level at full. He says the pickup is so close to the bottom of the pan pickup is never an issue...as long as it wasn't low in oil level.
The Honda F-series/K-series are phenomenal engines with lots of potential. I'd just leave it alone. On track, a lightweight flywheel makes reving the engine easier on downshifts.
People regularly run high mileage engines at the track. It is also a high rev engine. If you are running it to 9000 rpm I'd look at the valve springs and maybe the valves, retainers, keepers. A dropped valve often turns the whole engine into scrap.
Lots of tire options. Some people run as wide as 315 front/335 rear. 255 square is a lot more common; it is the size of the STR autocross class. 17x9 wheels for that class are inexpensive from Tirerack
#10
Just like the car, this forum surprised me. In full disclosure, wasn't sure what to expect.
Thanks for all the replies.....appreciate the honest and excellent feedback. I'll replace the clutch and flywheel and start there. Debating the suspension next, but my tire wear looks almost perfect across the tire....so unless I start seeing poor wear patterns, it seems pretty good right now. If things wear out I'll upgrade.....like the koni option but wouldn't mind lowering the car around an inch just for looks.
I would love to be faster, but I'm not going down the mod route trying to make the s2k keep up with modern cars. I went down that road with the 944T. I'm just looking for modest upgrades as things wear out.
This section is somewhat off topic but couldn't resist.
To each their own, but I like the analog car. The new cars are tempting and I've been debating a new cayman for quite some time. But there is so much tech in these cars it starts to take away from the experience IMO. If you want to go fast, new is the way to go....if you want to drive, I like old school and the s2k hits the mark. yes it has ABS, but I rarely engage it and I turn traction control off. Frankly it can be hard to instruct students who drive poorly. Some take god awful lines and hit the brakes mid turn, but the cars electronics kick in and make them look like they made a perfect turn. So when you tell them to brake in a straight line.....they look at you like....why? My only response is well...if you ever drive a car without that stuff we would be in the wall.....but if you keep buying new cars...WTF...go for it. Don't get me wrong...I love instructing. 99% of the people are great. Maybe i"m just longing for the days, when guys would actually lock up tires, freak out a little, and then slowly ramp up speed again and understand vehicle dynamics.
Realize I'm way off topic, but my instructor friend brought his tesla model 3 out so I took a ride with him. No doubt IF (big if without prices climbing) they continue to improve batteries, electric cars will be much easier to drive fast. Its easy to imagine motors at all wheel electronically getting you around a corner and the torque is impressive. OK....off my soap box.
Thanks again and happy analog driving.
Thanks for all the replies.....appreciate the honest and excellent feedback. I'll replace the clutch and flywheel and start there. Debating the suspension next, but my tire wear looks almost perfect across the tire....so unless I start seeing poor wear patterns, it seems pretty good right now. If things wear out I'll upgrade.....like the koni option but wouldn't mind lowering the car around an inch just for looks.
I would love to be faster, but I'm not going down the mod route trying to make the s2k keep up with modern cars. I went down that road with the 944T. I'm just looking for modest upgrades as things wear out.
This section is somewhat off topic but couldn't resist.
To each their own, but I like the analog car. The new cars are tempting and I've been debating a new cayman for quite some time. But there is so much tech in these cars it starts to take away from the experience IMO. If you want to go fast, new is the way to go....if you want to drive, I like old school and the s2k hits the mark. yes it has ABS, but I rarely engage it and I turn traction control off. Frankly it can be hard to instruct students who drive poorly. Some take god awful lines and hit the brakes mid turn, but the cars electronics kick in and make them look like they made a perfect turn. So when you tell them to brake in a straight line.....they look at you like....why? My only response is well...if you ever drive a car without that stuff we would be in the wall.....but if you keep buying new cars...WTF...go for it. Don't get me wrong...I love instructing. 99% of the people are great. Maybe i"m just longing for the days, when guys would actually lock up tires, freak out a little, and then slowly ramp up speed again and understand vehicle dynamics.
Realize I'm way off topic, but my instructor friend brought his tesla model 3 out so I took a ride with him. No doubt IF (big if without prices climbing) they continue to improve batteries, electric cars will be much easier to drive fast. Its easy to imagine motors at all wheel electronically getting you around a corner and the torque is impressive. OK....off my soap box.
Thanks again and happy analog driving.