DanielB

Before you go away from OEM for the clutch, spend some time here reading about others who have "upgraded" to aftermarket pressure plates and discs. Not everyone is happy with it - especially on the street. The stock clutch (in good condition) has no issues holding the torque of the stock motor.

I'll second the advice from s2000ellier that I wouldn't recommend changing the spring/shock package until you're ready to go with a premium setup. The Ohlins DFV seems to be the top candidate that is also streetable. It was the best mod I made to the car on track and, when softened, my wife still rides with me on Sunday afternoon drives without noticing much of a difference from stock.

I'm with you about the analog experience from the S2000 on track. There's only one reason for me to do DEs: have fun. I'm long past the point to consider a career in auto racing (and doubt I have enough talent anyway). While I am now at the point at my home track where each additional second is an achievement, if I'm honest with myself, going faster, beyond bragging rights with my friends, doesn't make it any more fun. Glad you're enjoying the S2000 so much - for the kind of experience we're talking about here, there aren't many others cars that will deliver more fun per dollar.

DavidNJ

Another shock option is the Eibach R2 from Evasive. They are full 46mm mono tube shocks (not cartridge monotubes) with external reservoirs front and rear (the rear is a piggy back, the front includes a mounting bracket), double adjustable, made in the us. https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/s...a-s2000-00-09/. They don't have the rebuiltability, piston options, etc. of a Penske. But then none do and only a few (JRi, Ohlins TTR/TTX, etc. race shocks) come close.

Driven

[looks at forum, "Racing and Competition"] ...

Like being in an AA meeting and overhearing someone ask "Does whiskey have alcohol in it?"

s2000Junky

There is a CDV(clutch delay valve) in the 05+ S2000. Make sure this is not what you are experiencing. It acts like clutch slip between gears when you shift in a spirited manner. I hate them and many owners swap in a early model slave cylinder to get rid of it. If you actually have a worn clutch, Act PP with a OEM disc or SOS street are two good options, but while you are in there get rid of the 22lb boat anchor of a flywheel you have on your era s2000 (00-03 had 14lb) which is not helping your clutch or cdv slip anyway, and get a Act pro light or SOS 8.5lb flywheel. This will do a lot to deliver better throttle/engine response for rev matching and overall enjoyment of the awesome motor, freeing it up. The F22 really wakes up with these light weight flywheels. But first identify that your clutch is actually worn, vs just engaging the CDV and go from there.

DavidNJ

Which is better, SOS Ultra Lightweight or ACT Pro Lite?

NoDelta

CDV can just be removed. It's basically just a screen that slows the flow of clutch fluid a little bit. Billman has a couple write-ups on how to do it.
I think he ultimately concludes that its not the CDV creating the slip, but he's the only person I've seen with that opinion.

I had to replace my clutch master cylinder and ended up doing the CDV at the same time. There are a couple PITA spring clips holding it in, but aside from that its easy to handle

s2000Junky

I run the pro light form Act, but back when I got it SOS did not have this flywheel. If I had to do it again I would probably go with the SOS because its nearly $100 less expensive and I see no downside in weight or quality. Other then a slight design change, both look to be high quality single piece machined chromo of similar sub 10lb weight which is important to me. Lighter the better.

ekoz

For $50 seems like swapping to an old slave cylinder is any easy test. I never heard of the CDV but that seems like what is happening. shifts from 3rd to 4th in the VTEC zone is where I notice it most. I had to replace my master already so might as well try this.

LIke the idea of the lightened flywheel, but being cautious since I did this on the 944. along with an aggressive clutch set up. I can drive it on the street but it sucks....chatter and difficult engagement. Its almost binary...on or off. Granted its great on the track but don't want to make that mistake again.

1-10 how difficult is clutch change? For reference I have removed and rebuilt my 944 turbo motor, so I consider my self somewhat capable of working on cars. Just curious if there are any things that really suck about the process. Would be surprised if there were....Generally the Honda engineers seem to have the act together. Unlike Germans in the 80's which over designed everything.

s2000Junky

^^ Do the non cdv $50 slave and see if your clutch issue persist, then go from there on deciding on digging into the the clutch for a light weight flywheel assuming clutch is fine, which it probably is. I DD the 8lb flywheel, no problem. With the oem clutch friction disc and stock and or stage 1/street updated PP its great. The on/off issues is when you start getting into really high capacity clutches for FI. Again to put in some perspective, the Ap1 (00-03) came with a 14lb flywheel from factory and I would consider a normal feeling weight for shifting time and modulation when performing rev matching and general engine character. The Ap2 with the 22lb is complete overkill, and really makes the rpms hang in the air far too long, it causes added wear and tear on the clutch and removes the ability to more effectively rev match with any engine response to your right foot, the engine literally feels like a sowing machine. Swapping in an ap1 flywheel is common, but if your going to the trouble you will enjoy the 8lb more.

Clutch job I give a 8 out of 10. Its not fun, but if you do them every weekend you would have the system down and do it in about 5 hours. It will take anyone the first time about twice that if they enjoy the struggles and hang ups without taking breaks. There is no room to access the top bolt on the trans so you need to lower the sub frame about 2", which includes disconnecting the steering knuckle/coupler(mark to keep same location). You need to build a long extension socket about 3' to thread your way through to the top starter bolt to get the other trans bolt and try not to break the knock sensor in the process. Once you are familiar with some of these potential obstacles, it can be fairly strait forward, but again not on your first time. I have done it and still prefer to pay a local guy I know on the side to do it for $500 because I dont like torturing myself if I dont have to. Dedicate a weekend to it if you decide to do it. Yeah its a Honda, but its a front engine RWD Honda and space is tight.

ekoz

Well that's not what I wanted to hear, but great response. If I do decide to do the clutch I'll probably take on the challenge. If it can be done in 5 hours and I give myself the weekend, shouldn't be too much of a problem. I posted this on my 944 turbo forum.

Tool box when I purchased 944 turbo






Tool Box after 20 years of 944 turbo ownership





Have to justify these things somehow.....but If I could find a local guy to do it for $500 its a done deal.