My BS scca prep and build
#21
2 more maintenance items:
Sway bar is nice to have, but you should drive without it first. Shocks can wait, unless your OEM ones are worn.
You should also get an alignment, at least to make sure the toe settings are ok. My AP1 comes stock way out of spec. I run with these number:
- Front: -1.7* (max) camber, 5.8* caster (whatever it takes to max out camber), 0 toe.
- Rear: -2* camber, 0.3* toe-in total (or about 1/8" total)
- Tighten axle nuts: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...sb-diy-929843/
- Tighten subframe bolts - see bottom of page: https://robrobinette.com/S2000Alignment.ht
Sway bar is nice to have, but you should drive without it first. Shocks can wait, unless your OEM ones are worn.
You should also get an alignment, at least to make sure the toe settings are ok. My AP1 comes stock way out of spec. I run with these number:
- Front: -1.7* (max) camber, 5.8* caster (whatever it takes to max out camber), 0 toe.
- Rear: -2* camber, 0.3* toe-in total (or about 1/8" total)
Last edited by hai1206vn; 03-31-2019 at 09:19 AM.
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Rajjuhh (04-01-2019)
#22
2 more maintenance items:
Sway bar is nice to have, but you should drive without it first. Shocks can wait, unless your OEM ones are worn.
You should also get an alignment, at least to make sure the toe settings are ok. My AP1 comes stock way out of spec. I run with these number:
- Front: -1.7* (max) camber, 5.8* caster (whatever it takes to max out camber), 0 toe.
- Rear: -2* camber, 0.3* toe-in total (or about 1/8" total)
- Tighten axle nuts: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...sb-diy-929843/
- Tighten subframe bolts - see bottom of page: https://robrobinette.com/S2000Alignment.ht
Sway bar is nice to have, but you should drive without it first. Shocks can wait, unless your OEM ones are worn.
You should also get an alignment, at least to make sure the toe settings are ok. My AP1 comes stock way out of spec. I run with these number:
- Front: -1.7* (max) camber, 5.8* caster (whatever it takes to max out camber), 0 toe.
- Rear: -2* camber, 0.3* toe-in total (or about 1/8" total)
Thank you for that, I'll check out both the axle bolts in rear and subframe bolts today.
Both right shocks seem to be covered in a bit of oil, I'm sure they are at the end of there life that's why I'm changing them.
I'll also be checking all the alignment bolts today, I really hope they loosen up.
#26
Finished the drain and fill on rear diff
Removed and replaced the TCT
Re Torqued all subframe bolt (non where loose)
BAD-
Caster adjuster are frozen.....
The drive belt I got is the wrong size too small
Removed and replaced the TCT
Re Torqued all subframe bolt (non where loose)
BAD-
Caster adjuster are frozen.....
The drive belt I got is the wrong size too small
#29
Ehh... I'd argue that it falls under "Alternate components which are normally expendable and considered re-placement parts... may be used provided they are essentially identical to the standard parts..., are used in the same location, and provide no performance benefit."
#30
Ehh... I'd argue that it falls under "Alternate components which are normally expendable and considered re-placement parts... may be used provided they are essentially identical to the standard parts..., are used in the same location, and provide no performance benefit."