When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I purchased the autovation pedal set. It's cheaper by the set and buyer can customize the pedals to their liking (e.g. material, thickness, grip pattern). Great customer service too. Highly recommend. Wider pedals, in general, should help improve heel-toe.
I haven't done this in a while, but I have braked into Big Bend at Lime Rock 4,000 times or so.
First, there is very little lap time difference between crazy late braking and a more measured approach. It is important for passing...that is one of the few places to pass at Lime Rock. What you are always focused on is your exit from the turn. Big Bend is a hump-backed, decreasing radius turn taken with two apexes. It has its own issues in getting right. A bad exit and someone behind can be alongside entering the left hander, the second place to pass.
Then, don't need to downshift until just before you are getting back on the throttle. There is a writeup by Ross Bentley here (https://speedsecrets.com/ask-ross/wh...d-i-downshift/) and you can watch and listen to Hamilton at Barecelona here: https://www.formula1.com/en/video/20..._pole_lap.html . My teammate many, many years ago used to ease out the clutch smoothly as he picked up the throttle on corner exit after a downshift.
Beyond that, AFTER you get your braking down, left foot braking is the next skill.
I've had trouble with heel-toe in my Miata with the pedals being too far, I fixed it by pulling the accelerator pedal closer to the brake pedal. For the S2K, it was different because the pedals were close enough but my heel toes were always inconsistent and only usually worked during hard braking, I found out it was because the accelerator pedal did not come up forward enough, meaning under normal braking circumstances, depressing the brake pedal only made it flat and aligned with that of the accelerator. This means that during the heel toe motion, the heel had to depress further to blip the throttle. This was rather awkward and difficult considering the angle. Hence, I had my mechanic bend the accelerator pedal higher and now I have no problems heel toe downshifting.
Some people might find it ghetto but this was one of the ways that worked for me and did not have any issues with it whatsoever. However, if your heel toe method is the half foot on throttle half on brake, purchasing an extender or larger accelerator pedal may work better for you.
If all the ergonomics is comfortable for you (knee not hitting steering wheel, pedal spaced to your preference), you should be able to master it through everyday driving. Good luck !
I also can't rev match in my Miata, but for me it's because my knee hits the steering wheel. I fixed it by buying an S2000 Still have the miata though. I think I want to get one of those SRP pedals though.
lighter flywheel will help with rev-matching as well if you find you're not getting revs up high enough. But depending on how light you go, you need to be quicker with the shifts as the revs come down a lot quicker too.
Won't help you in real life. But all manual transmissions in iracing can be downshifted without using the clutch.
So left foot braking, right foot to blip the throttle on a clutchless downshift. For upshifts it's faster to use the clutch. It feels like a bit of a dance with your left foot going between the brake and the clutch, but it's no different to your right foot going from gas to brake, and you never have to operate all three pedals at the same time.
Won't help you in real life. But all manual transmissions in iracing can be downshifted without using the clutch.
So left foot braking, right foot to blip the throttle on a clutchless downshift. For upshifts it's faster to use the clutch. It feels like a bit of a dance with your left foot going between the brake and the clutch, but it's no different to your right foot going from gas to brake, and you never have to operate all three pedals at the same time.
Don't try it in your real car on track though.
I've done that, but I avoid it because I don't want to build up the muscle memory of clutchless downshifting. If I do, I know for a fact I'll do it in real life.
On a sequential transmission you can get a shift knob with a strain gauge inside that sent a signal to the ECU. Since many (most?) sequentials can send a signal indicating which gear it is in, and the voltage can determine whether it is being upshifted or downshifted, it should be able to match revs and do no lift/no clutch upshifts with dog-gear sequential gearboxes. I think Hondata sells one (https://www.hondata.com/strain-gauge). I know Syvecs (and by extension Life and Pectel/Cosworth) support it. I'm guessing Motec does also, but probably as an option.
On a sequential transmission you can get a shift knob with a strain gauge inside that sent a signal to the ECU. Since many (most?) sequentials can send a signal indicating which gear it is in, and the voltage can determine whether it is being upshifted or downshifted, it should be able to match revs and do no lift/no clutch upshifts with dog-gear sequential gearboxes. I think Hondata sells one (https://www.hondata.com/strain-gauge). I know Syvecs (and by extension Life and Pectel/Cosworth) support it. I'm guessing Motec does also, but probably as an option.
0
How is this remotely related to the OP's question?
05-24-2018, 02:17 PM
Still have the miata though. I think I want to get one of those SRP pedals though.
