OEM vs. Urge Vented Rear Rotors - Back to Back Testing with Thermal Images
#12
Have you noticed any better pad wear ckowalc for the rear? It looks like it didn't change much to me, but maybe that's because the rear is actually doing something now.. :P My front pads with the stoptech kit definitely seem to be wearing very little, but going from wearing very little to barely at all probably isn't a noticeable change unless you're doing a lot of track days.
I've only really done 1 day or about 2 hours of track time on the Urge rear rotors so I can't comment on wear at this point. I did not actually see that much wear with the OEM rotors the first day in this particular track day for some reason.
$700 is pretty steep and is what initially held me back from purchasing. I even looked at other rear rotor options trying to find a vented rear rotor from another production car or building kit using RX8 calipers and wilwood rotor rings. I eventually decided these rotors were the right decision for me.
The issue with the rear rotors isn't cracking (even though the guy with the Sakebomb Wilwood front kit said he did), it is the extreme rotor temperatures. These temperatures lead to accelerated wear and/or forcing you to use expensive and usually high friction pads. I'm a heavy braker as well and I've seen 700 F rotors temps and used 50% of the rear pad in 1 day at a heavy braking track local to me and track brake pads ain't cheap. I've noticed most track pads as you go up in temperature range, the price and friction coefficient go up. This forces you to use similar pads in the front brake or live with a rear bias setup (like my DTC-70s). There is also the issue of the reduced life of the rear wheel bearings. I personally haven't had to replace mine but I've heard it eventually becomes an issue.
You can to a cost-benefit or break even analysis and figure out if these rotors are make sense for you. The option to use cheaper and more street oriented pads and the longer pad life is why I chose to upgrade them.
#13
$700 is expensive for sure. For me it was a matter of first addressing the weakest link in the chain. While not cheap, replacing early in the ownership of the car would help me to have a better chance of breaking even on pad savings in the rear and potentially the front while maybe even reduce cracking frequency of the front (hopefully not being too optimistic here). Combine that with salvaging a couple hundred out of the kit when done made it close enough for me to take the financial risk. If it doesn't work out more money spent in the name of "research" for the community.
#14
It's not about cracking rear rotors, it's about overheating the rears, putting way more heat into the fronts when the rear brakes are no longer providing much braking force, and eating through pads and rotors up front.
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