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So a couple minor issues with the test load. With the standard 5' ramps and a 2 foot beavertail, I can't get the car on the ramps without the front bumper dragging. My car actually sagged a bit from my desired ride height, so I do plan to raise it a half inch this winter. That might actually solve that problem. For now, I backed my truck onto my ramps, and was able to get the car on the trailer. Coming off the trailer though, the raised edge on the bottom of the front bumper caught the metal where the wood deck ends and the metal beavertail starts. Just barely, no damage, but it still caught. I think this was the result of the trailer being angled down towards the car.
If raising the ride height half an inch doesn't solve this, it seems the best attempt at a solution would be to keep the trailer level and get longer ramps. The problem is that my trailer has a ramp setup that interlocks with the trailer, and I don't know if I can just use any aftermarket ramps - see pic here: http://www.needatrailer.com/suretrac...set-1-Ramp.png
The other minor issue with that is my ramps store inside the back of the trailer. Longer ramps won't fit in there, so I'll have to haul them in the bed. With a 6' bed, even diagonally they may not fit without sticking out. I suppose that's not the end of the world though..
just get a set of Race Ramps. They will effectively extend the length of your current ramps and reduce the angle onto the trailer. You can then just toss them into the truck bed. Then no worries where to store your current ramps.
The more you track, you won’t want to raise the car, and eventually you’ll want a splitter anyway. Get longest race ramps that’ll fit in your bed, and future proof your car mods, lol. Only caveat, they’re not cheap
Once I figure out my tongue weight, I do plan on marking the trailer or maybe screwing in a couple boards to bump the front tires into.
Thanks for the tip about race ramps. I've heard people recommend them but the context never gave away that they were extensions. I always thought they were just name brand ramps. I actually really like that idea.
I bought a brand new open car 16ft hauler in 2017 for 1800. I sold it a year later for $1750. Don’t over spend on a used trailer, you can find them pretty cheap brand new and upgrade. I looked for 4 months before I found most used were overpriced and decided to go new. Only regret is I wished mine had removable/flip down fenders, but a standard 16’ car with 2ft beaver trailer works perfect for our cars.
So where did you find a brand new open trailer for 1800? Used trailers are a ripoff in my area.
Here is my setup. I've had a couple trailers now and methods for the S2000 but this is by far the easiest. I have a 16ft total with a 2(?) foot beaver tail. I have no splitter and my car is not slammed. All I need to get it up is 2 pieces of wood in front of the tire. For strapped, I had D rings welded to front and back of the tires. I use quality Mac straps through the tires and pull straight front and back, no crossing. This is perfect the recommendation of MAC straps. It has worked very well and is super easy to do. I can get the car on and off in a few min by myself. My fenders are also low enough to open and close the door.
I've used the T hooks before and they aren't bad but just not as easy as going through the tires. If you have an open button trailer, definitely do not go with the T hooks because you need to get under the trailer to pass the hooks. It is easier with the a flat bottom if you use that method.
As far as the truck, its 8ft bed SR5 Tundra with the 5.7. It frequently forget I have anything behind me except on hills. Its great on hills too it just downshifts a few gears but never looses speed. I get 12-13mpg towing with it but on very hilly tows like going to Watkins Glen it will drop to 11.
What is the clearance height from ground to the underside of the door for the S2000?
My doors (lowered about an inch) open with my trailer fenders on. But the tradeoff there is a taller trailer (fenders stick up more if the tailer is lower). That has never really bothered me so much. Downside really is that since mine is flat all the way back, my ramps are steeper. I currently have some short ramps (built out of wood kinda like race ramps) that I use to prevent rockers from contacting as I drive over the top of the ramps. But when I add a splitter there will be less chance of being able to load without removing it. Really low trailers are nice because easier to load but then typically you have to remove the trailer fender to open the door. Also not a huge deal really.
Then there are ones like a couple of friends have, that have an electric tilt that slides the bed back and down so they have super small angles. But they are spendy .. one friends was $6000 used (Steel and very heavy) and the others was $14,000 new (super nice aluminum one) so I will deal with my regular old trailer
10-05-2018, 03:00 PM
