over heating issues
 

hello, I have a supercharged ap1 and have been having some over heating issues on hot days. Everything seems to be functioning properly but things are still getting hot. Was just cruising around 50mph in 4th and noticed 4 bars on the temp gauge.. Starting to think my radiator and fans just aren't up to the task. Running a mishimoto rad and spal slim fans. If it over heats just cruising around on a hot day, i don't even want to think about what will happen when I finally get to the track! need to sort this out asap! Any recommendations to keep my car at normal temps? Different rad? fans? pusher fans? Idk please help!

ensure there isnt an air bubble in the system, 4 bars on an ap1 is like 232F which is pretty f@#king high

Yeah 4 bars is bad! Did you replace the fan switch to a lower temp? I have the modifry upgrade and just switched to a Mishimoto, I also have a 175 switch. Because I have the modifry upgrade I have a good idea of when the fan should come on and due to the cooler temp coming from the Mishimoto my 175 comes on at a slightly higher temp now due to the cooler fluid hitting it from the radiator and the difference between the temp gauge and fan switch location. If you have the standard 190 switch it could be quite hot before the fan kicks on

well I'm running AEM V2 and the fans are set to come on at 187 which they do. I let it idle for awhile and watched coolant temps on the laptop. Pretty sure no air bubbles in the system. Everyone is telling me the mishimoto is junk and other people are saying they had over heating issues with this radiator as well. Looking to buy a dual pass radiator here and hopefully that will solve my issues. http://www.mrsideways.com/s2000radiator.html

does the bottom rad hose get hot? does your heater blow hot?

I have heard nothing but good things about the Mishimoto. Guys boost on OEM radiators and don't have issues, so I doubt it is that. I am wondering if you are not having head gasket issues? What type of supercharger setup do you have?

I have a new OEM thermostat and it's working properly. Heat blows hot. I was just monitoring ECT on the laptop and it hit 4 bars around 214. I'm just now discovering that when I have the AC on, temps rise fast and it brings me to 4 bars quickly. Why would temps raise so much with the AC on?

you have an ap2?

Ap1

I had a friend with a supercharged ap2 and an aftermarket radiator(not sure which one) and he had issues with it getting hot as well in city driving/stop and go. Replaced the fans with some more powerful ones and it was good to go. Apparently some radiators just need airflow to cool correctly

Aem v2... So maybe it's set up differently than on an oem ecu

That temp sensor readout has been changed by the AEM. Normal AP1 goes to 4 at 232, that is similar to my Modifry and I see 4 bars if I let the car sit for a minute or two, it doesn't worry me a bit. I don't see 4 if I am moving, yet (it isn't really hot here and I have not tracked it). If I did I would take note, but not be too concerned as long as it came back down.

Didn't know it could do that, pretty cool!

I have ian's radiator with big setrab oil cooler on my na s2000. On buttonwillow on relatively warm day, my water temp topped at 195f and oil temp was at 230f.

Maybe I am wrong, maybe it can't, but his readings don't coincide at all with what an AP1 gauge should. I know the Modifry upgrade has a AEM user specific, so it must do something, but the fact that it has an AEM specific says I could be wrong.

in any case, if the car wasnt overheating before but suddenly is, there is a leak somewhere and air got into the system.

do the billman bleed and see if that helps. i know i had a similar situation where i suddenly hit 4 bars on my ap1 temp gauge after a track day. i managed to melt some of the IM gasket by the water neck and had introduced air into the system. shit happens

another thing you can do is get a pressure tester kit. that helped me locate my leak. just do it in a quiet area and you'll hear the hiss once you pressurizer the system

Mishimoto radiators are total junk sorry. I couldn't track my car with it. Maybe on the street it was fine but on track forget it!

Switched to a dual core (Ian's or I'd suggest C&R either or) and BAM, 175 avg temp on track lap after lap!

I've been running a Mishimoto dual core since 2009. Been boosted since 2011. Upped the boost earlier this year, had a hard track day in 85 degree weather on 10.5lbs of boost. The hottest the car became was 220 (this was already after 3 20+ minute sessions) then cooled down below 200 on the straights.

6 years, 4 track days, countless canyon runs and 50k+ miles later my Mishimoto is still going strong.

Sorry that's not great data... I'd be terrified if my temps were that high. In 40min sprint races and over 100's of 25min hpde sessions I've never seen coolant over 185.

I made a thread about this a week or so ago and got answers that some guys are tracking on EBay/Megan/Mishimoto with zero issues. I guess we will see how it works for me, I hit the track next weekend.

You probably just need to bleed the coolant using the Billman method. If you search the forum it is quoted pretty often. Basically fill the cooling system and close the radiator cap. Start the car with the heat on full/high and let it idle until it reaches three bars. Run for an additional ten seconds or so. Turn the car off and bleed the front bleeder until coolant comes out steady stream. Close. Repeat until you have lava hot air coming from the heater vent and until you aren't getting any more air bubbles from the bleeder screw.

Other common problems with cooling systems:

Too much ethylene glycol/not enough water. At a minimum 50% water, but more water is better for cooling. When my car saw street duty, I ran 70% distilled water/30% Honda coolant. I run 100% water with Motul Mocool now. ALWAYS USE DISTILLED WATER! Never use tap water.

Radiator is not ducted well.
https://i662.photobucket.com/albums/...2558749451.jpg
Ducting is critical. Airflow through the radiator is what makes magic happen. Air, like everything else including most people, follows the path of least resistance. Use anything you can find to block these little paths off. I use foam rubber from a crafts store as it is cheap and quick rather than cutting a bunch of metal plates. The S2000 is ducted pretty well from the factory if you still have all the plastic panels in place.

Radiator cap is not operational. Squeeze the top coolant hose after the car has been running. It should be pressurized. If it feels like there is zero pressure in the hose, replace the cap.

the problem is, the car over heats only when i turn the AC on. I think it's because my condenser is probably clogged up since it looks like the original one and the car has 164k on it. So here's what I'm going to do. Clean the condenser out from behind with a pressure washer/ hose/ compressed air, whatever. That alone will probably fix my issue. But for good measure, I'm going to drop like 1200 on that ians dual core w/ oil cooler since I plan on heavily tracking the car with 423whp and rather be safe with a cool engine than blow up because of a cheapo radiator.

Ian's radiator is f@#king awesome, you won't be disappointed. If I were boosted it would be the 2nd thing I buy after an oil cooler.

Yeah..I have Ians rad too and my 1st track with it, It never went over 194. I have 2.4 stroker with 13:1 comp. 2.2 with stock rad saw ~208 the same day. temp was about 75-80ish.

City driving the car see higher temps.

I had someone Contact me over the weekend with a tight schedule for a radiator. Is your name Jason by any chance?

Same here.
I've got Ian's radiator with a 19 row(?) Sebtrab cooler and I see virtually the same temps. Only time it water temps hit 200f and oil 245f was when I was following a Cayman, as soon as I ducked out into fresh air on the back straight, temps dropped immediately. Huge thumbs up for Ians rad.

Yes that was me.

I sent you an e-mail back. I'd recommend buying the oil cooler separate and mounting it out in front in the clean air. I'm not a fan of mounting it behind the radiator for track use. I don't think your going to get enough temp delta on the air coming through it to make a large enough difference. For around town and in a cold climate it will work fine. But I think in the heat on the track you want the oil cooler out front. That's where 99% of the other guys with my radiator mount it. That and it's cheaper and gives you more space for larger fans.
Ian

Does ur rad/oil cooler/fan kit come with hoses and other parts to complete the oil cooler setup?

No, I've only made one that was the cooler behind the radiator. I get a fair amount of requests for it but I usually end up having them go with a cooler mounted in fresh air out front. The one that was built with the cooler behind the rad was built at his request from a motoIQ article where someone did it.

Jason,

As I told you on FB, my old setup with mishimoto radiator, I'd have to pull off the highway after a few runs. A couple laps on the track and I'd be overheating...

New setup ....


35min sprint race and my water is 172 oil 185.

Vmount 19row oil cooler and SOS large heat exchanger
Ian's dual core radiator getting direct airflow
E85 100 octane

http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/...3B4F43ED3A.jpg

http://youtu.be/VlpnP2O2iWY

I went with the ians rad w/ oil cooler behind the radiator. I'm also going to clean out the condenser while I have the radiator out. Should be good to go then. What would you say is too hot for oil and coolant on the track?

If you get near 230 I'd shut it down. Everyone that's running these radiators is reporting that it stays at or under 200f so long as you don't have air in the system and don't have all the air blocked to the radiator from the intercooler. Even the best radiator won't keep you cool if the air being blown on it is hot from the intercooler. As far as oil that's going to vary from where you take the reading. But to hot in my books is 300f taken at the pan. I hit 305 on the factory sensor in a a borrowed Z06 that had a large oil cooler a few weeks ago in 3 laps at sebring and that scared me. The car owner told me it runs that hot all the time and not to worry.... yikes.

hello joserman i have 2007 ap2 with Kraftwerks s2000, I have a problem with the temperature, my oil cooler install bottom intercooler please recommend solution for my problem, thanks and regards

Have you verified that radiator is clear of debris? I started seeing higher temps at the track and found this when I pulled the rad. I hadn't removed the AC condenser so had missed this when I initially checked for blockage.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...ea43a2321e.jpg

I spent a lot of time deciding between a Koyo and Mishimoto. From what I could tell after reading user feedback across many car types, the quality issues with the Mishimoto are mostly manufacturing defects that show up during installation (e.g. damaged fins, bolt holes that don't line up, poor cap fit). I didn't see issues around cooling capacity once it was installed. I really doubt that's the issue for you.

I'd be focusing on the coolant (do you have a proper mixture that isn't too much antifreeze) and proper bleeding. The extra heat from the SC setup driving in stop/go traffic is small, and the stock cooling system when properly set up has no issues with keeping things cool even with AC on. Have you verified that BOTH fans are coming on when the compressor cycles on?

I think focusing on the rad would make sense if you said the issues were when driving the car hard, but unless I missed something, that's not your issue.

Hi friend

I have a radiator koyo rad and sandwich thermostat 200f with oil cooler setrab 18 rows installed behind the intercoooler of kraftwerks, on track day I see oil temperatures of 240f, I do not understand why the temperature rises so much.

I would like to know what is the best configuration for cooling the oil in my ap2 sc configuration.

Thank you

Hi friend

I have a radiator koyo rad and sandwich thermostat 200f with oil cooler setrab 18 rows installed behind the intercoooler of kraftwerks, on track day I see oil temperatures of 240f, I do not understand why the temperature rises so much.

I would like to know what is the best configuration for cooling the oil in my ap2 sc configuration.

Thank you

240F oil temp is nothing to be concerned about.