auric

Attempted to install an OMP HTE-R 400 with PCI Slider mounts
- For those wondering, this combo clears the transmission tunnel to without cutting the seat side bolster assuming you are using the 3rd from the bottom hole on the side mounts
- Can not go lower due to the slider rails being in the way (not PCI's fault to be honest); If you want to go lower you'll need a stationary seat mount with no slider.
- Did have to cut 2 divets to make room for the pull bar (lever) that you pull to move the seat (this seat has a big lip--once again not PCI's fault)
- Using this set-up I actually sit ~10 mm higher than with my BYS lowering rail with stock seat that has had the bottom cushion aggressively trimmed

Now the complaint:
- the slider is not robust and the pull bar easily comes off.... this happened while I was test fitting the seat
- while test fitting the bar came loose on one end and was unable to move the seat
- fortunately I had only hand tightened 3/4 of the four seat mounting bolts and could reach them by hand
- had I been to far forward or backward; not sure what I would have done




This picture was taken after I removed the seat from the mount. Note that on this side the pull bar is still in it's proper location.

auric

Now the side that slipped off:


The pull bar on this side slipped off while I was in the process of test fitting.

auric

Now I'm not sure what direction to go.
- I don't want to risk re-installing the this mount again given that last time the bar came loose while I attempted to move the seat install the seat mounting bolts
- I'm afraid that next time the bar will loosen in a place where I can't get to all the bolts to remove the seat
- Welding could be an option, but I don't know how nor do I have the equipment
- I thought about removing the slider and just using the base and side-mount to secure the seat in a fixed position but the holes don't line up.

Really is a shame. Had high hopes for this mount. The base and side mounts are solid and looks like a quality items.
- Everything fit perfectly (excluding the pull bar)

I think this would be a great kit if the pull bar could somehow be secured.

decepticondc5

Are you pulling the seat fore/aft from that bar? I am thinking that is not how its intended to be used. Did you reach out to PCI?

auric

- No, I am not pulling from the bar/lever.
- I move the bar/lever and use my legs and hands to pull and push the seat.
- I tried calling PCI today, but no answer and they have no voicemail (figure probably out for the long weekend)

Nate Tempest

I have this mount. Basically you need to remove the bar and bend it such that when squeezed in-between the seat rails, the sides of the bar are parallel to the rails, not bending inward as shown in your second picture. This can be done without too much difficulty by putting one side of the bar in a vice and pulling on the other end. Basically to make it narrower you bend it in the middle and then bend the two ends outward, and to make it wider you do the opposite. (Looks like yours needs to be narrower though.)

Once the bar is the right width, the tabs on either end will fully engage with the holes in the bar, and it will be solid.

Edit: also, even with the bar loose it's possible to move the seat, just very difficult. You can use something like a screwdriver to twist each latch, then slide the seat. Probably easier to have one person disengage the two latches while another does the sliding. If you get the bar right though, you shouldn't need to.

Edit 2: Depending on how much clearance you have, you might be able to get one hole lower by flipping the hardware mounting the rails. The round bolt heads are shorter/smaller than the nuts, so give a bit more clearance to the bottom of the seat shell. I got one extra hole on my Sparco Pro 2000 this way, although it was a pain. (As I'm sure you've found is installing seats in general!)

robrob

Do this inside the garage. If you do it on the street people will talk

ThreeD

Agree, the bar needs to be bent slightly so it is parallel. I also have these mounts. The sliders are quite robust, not much slack compared to recaro sliders I've used in the past.

freq

The PCI setup is rarely a 100% "plug and play" solution from my experience and what I've seen posted here.

I removed my sliders and had to cut the mount a good amount to get my Sparcc Circuit 2 in and low enough.

Brain was pretty responsive though.

auric

Not sure what you guys mean by parallel, but I reset the pull bar this morning without the seat to test for robustness . The left and right slides slide easily enough without the seat secured to the mount, but after a few forward and backward movements, one side of the sliders will slide more than the other. Once this happens, one side of the pull bar will dislodge (where the hole on the bar and the tab/peg are) and you are no longer able to slide the slider on that side. My concern is that if this happens with the seat in the car in such a way where I cant get to the bolts to remove the seat, I'm screwed. This almost happened yesterday to me while test fitting the seat. Honestly, without properly securing the pull bar to the slider (welds or bolts) I don't think there is a way to prevent this with this slider. At this point, I am considering my options:
- 1. go to harbor freight and by a cheap welder, learn to weld, and put some welds down; (not even sure if this is an option--please weigh in no this)
- 2. aborting the slider option and going with a fixed mount, the current PCI side mount holes don't line up with the pre-made holes on the base. This means I make my own holes or contact PCI to see if they have a side mount I can use with my base.