|
Stock studs and Vorshlag nuts. I have never broken a stud. I don't see ever breaking one either.
|
Broke 2 studs taking my track wheels off today. Guess it is time to consider an upgrade.
|
Originally Posted by dc2-2-ap1
(Post 24085206)
Broke 2 studs taking my track wheels off today. Guess it is time to consider an upgrade.
|
Originally Posted by InsaneSp
(Post 24085381)
Originally Posted by dc2-2-ap1' timestamp='1476642250' post='24085206
Broke 2 studs taking my track wheels off today. Guess it is time to consider an upgrade.
|
Went with ARP standard length studs. After calling 20 different shops, I was finally able to locate 2 packs locally (found 2 that carried the extended). Did the fronts and am now waiting on 2 more packs so I can do the rear. This job is not fun. I am really shocked that no shops stock decent lug nuts or higher strength wheel studs. This is good for piece of mind at least. Now I know my wheel bearings "should" not be an issue for several years.
|
Great write up. If you happen to have an OEM stud handy, could you snap a pic next to the MSI studs?
I'd like to get a stud with about 5-10mm extra thread, not sure which length MSI stud I should go with. Thanx in advance. -Dino
Originally Posted by will010100
(Post 24079279)
http://imgur.com/bVSXJDL
Here you can see the three coating options for the lug nuts. The black and yellow are coated with the same Teflon-based material. The gray nut is manganese phosphate. For a few cents more, I recommend the Teflon-coated version. https://i.imgur.com/hmoGAol.jpg?1 This shows the ARP stud and 5 lengths of MSI studs. You can see the bullet nose is longer and the knurling reaches all the way to the head. I've not used them on track yet, but I can say it was nice to load a nut in the driver and just run them on without fear of cross threading. No more finger tightening the first few threads (I assume the same with ARP). Also the Teflon coating is very smooth. Before, I was using high-temp anti-seize on the OEM studs, but this held sand and junk, so I had to be careful to clean them each time (PITA). |
I still managed to booger the threads on some ARP studs on my Miata, I'd imagine the longer nub on the MSI would help with that issue. I'll be buying the MSI once I'm ready to do the wheel bearings.
|
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Antonov
Great write up. If you happen to have an OEM stud handy, could you snap a pic next to the MSI studs?
I'd like to get a stud with about 5-10mm extra thread, not sure which length MSI stud I should go with. Thanx in advance. -Dino |
:tipwink:
Originally Posted by will010100
(Post 24092264)
I do have some old OEM studs, but no new ones to lay next to them. I measured the OEM stud, and the L1 dimension is 38mm from the inside of the head to the end. Compare it to the size chart on the MSI website to find the one you want. WHEEL STUDS — MSI Racing Products
|
Originally Posted by s2000sccaracer
(Post 24080045)
I have noticed at track days, that some drivers get out of their car and immediately torque their wheels. Then do it again after the next time on the track. This torquing and re-torquing with hot wheels is what can result in stretched studs that will eventually break. I use ARP studs and have not broken one yet. Have taken hits hard enough to tear a solid axle off it's mounts and twist the axle (on TR3) or break a wheel (S2000) and ARP studs did not fail. I replaced the studs anyway after such hits.
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:42 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands