mzk784

I had the exact same problem when I was tracking on OEM pads, actually I started a thread on it here, it might come up if you search for it.
I used to use 3 rear sets for every set of fronts, and switching to DOT 4 didn't make any difference.
however when I switched to Carbotech XP10 front/ XP8 rear, that solved my problem and I replace front and rear at the same time now.

iam7head

did you guys align the "cross" on the rear caliper piston with the "dot" on the rear pad?

sounds simple but it need to be seat in properly

philbert

I've been thinking more about the AP1 vs AP2 issue. From what all the online part searches turn up, both AP1 and AP2 use the same rear pads, but the fronts are different. From what I've found in searches here, the AP2 front pads are more aggressive. My first thought was that if the AP2 front pads are more aggressive, shouldn't that mean less work for the rears?

But, now I'm wondering if I was thinking about it backwards. In that, if I had AP1 fronts, perhaps they'd be just as cooked as my rears and it's the "better" AP2 front compound that allowed them to survive the track. Which makes you wonder why Honda didn't see fit to replace the compound on both front and rear if they were going to bother with a change?

trump26901

count yourself lucky you didn't fry your rotors I did that on my first track event w/ OEM pads... one day at watkins glen and the pads/rotors were toast. My fronts were in bad shape, but the rears went out completely.

The reason is that the rear brakes are solid and don't cool off enough... that said, the OEM rotors are just fine... I switched to carbotech XP8 pads (eventually XP10/8 combo) for track days and haven't had an issue since... I actually love them and keep them on during HPDE season... I deal with the squeeking cuz I"m lazy.

philbert

do you swap a new set of rotors when you put the Carbotech pads on each season? as i've been reading about various track pad options, it seems Carbotech recommends a very particular bedding procedure, which doesn't allow for old pad material to be on the rotors. whereas Cobalt suggests that their track pads (perhaps because of their carbon-ceramic material?) don't have such a bedding procedure...

TubeDriver

Carbotech (like every other track pad in existence) has a preferred bed in procedure. Some manufacturers prefer a series on controlled stops followed by cool down, other prefer regular braking until pad starts to fade and then cool down. Carbotech pads are Ceramic/Metallic hybrid compound technology. They are one of the few track pads that can actually be used on the street to some extent because they are very easy on rotors even when cold.

GinoGT

AP2 w/ VSA here (VSA disables on track, obviously). Just to add to the sample size, I ran XP10/XP8 this season on Centric rotors, no ducting, 7 track days with a decent amount of street miles on them as well. The wear was fairly even, just a bit more wear on the fronts, and a hair more on the front left (all tracks I run are clockwise).

Not sure what it means, but I noticed a bit of a slant to the wear patterns on the front pads. One end of the pad is shorter than the other, with the opposing pad on the same wheel being an inverse of the same slant. I'm assuming this is caused by movement of the assembly under the torque of braking?

mikegarrison

Carbotech wants you to only use new rotors with their pads, but I've never had a problem using rotors that had been used by other types of pads.

There is a short period of time (maybe one lapping session) where you may have some funny pulsation issues to deal with, but that's no big deal, really.

bellwilliam

tapered wear means it is overheating. that's the reason you see top racing caliper with multiple piston use difference sized pistons on one caliper

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brake...elections.shtml
under tapered pad wear section.

Nabu

Hello fellas,

just jumping on this van because i have noticed the same thing while at the track. Rears always wear faster than the fronts on this car.

I was under the impression tho, that this was already common sense to most of the "Tracking" s2k members around here. Dont mean to sound like a smart@ss in any way, but when i had the same problem i did a search on the boards and you guys had already this one sorted out.

The problem was that the rear brakes dont get any venting at all thus generating high temps and thats why it goes through pads like mad.

The reasoning of changing the compound with a harder one is a way of getting over this phenomenon but it doesnt actually solves the problem of overheating. It is like moving the problem to another part (e.g. Brake rotor) and not dealing with it (e.g. decreasin the temps). Harder compound pads will go through the rotor a lot faster than the OEM stuff and there have been cases where drilled rotors have even been broken due to the compound of the pad.

There are posts, and quite a few really, that solve this by making tubular ducts, even for front brakes.

They also happen to be in this very section of the s2ki.com since you guys do race a lot more than any other continent, country out there.

Example 1 with photos

This link here also has a lot of information about ducting. I know its the fronts but the general idea is the same about the rear ones.

Sorry but since i am at work now i have a lot of images restricted by our firewall and cant really remember the topics by name in order to provide the 100% correct ones.

Again, dont mean to sound like a jack@ss just trying to share what i have learned from you guys

Kostas.