I have Urge in the rear. I will take it apart and post pictures. Currently I think it is just a lot of real abuse. Nothing lasts forever. How long you have your Karcepts on the car.

 

Hey @geras003 appreciate you sharing this. I also run karcepts rear hubs. What class/event are you running in? I have been MIA for this season running with NASA heading towards HPDE3. Are you checking rear rotor/hub temps after a session ? I ask this as the non-ventilated rotors get quite toasty and I was debating adding rear brake duct cooling to keep things a bit cooler on straights, cooldown laps etc. I run @robrob 's front brake duct setup and that helps quite a bit.

 

Rear brake ducts should definitely be ran on these cars under intensive track use. The Karcepts hubs can definitely take more stress, but the bearings will always fail due to heat.

 

I run advanced solo with Chin and PCA and this is fully build race car. It also doesn’t get a break as I run either Toyo Rs or Hoosiers. So a lot of abuse.

Yep, I haven’t tried the cooling ducts in the rear. In the front they do dorm do anything for me so I went with BBK.

 

Here is what it looks taken apart.

 

3yrs, but only about 15 or so track days. I only make it out to the track about 5-6days a year now, kids have reduced my track time to less than half of what it used to be.

 

Has anyone had a rear hub failure that did regular wheel bearing maintenance? Most of these pictures are of gross looking and rusted hubs. I'm here in southern California and I have hardly heard of any wheel hub failure. Do you guys think maybe snow/ice/salt/rust has anything to do with these failures?

I've tracked my s2000 for 11 of the 13 years I owned the car and I have not had a wheel hub failure yet *knock on wood*. Wheel bearings were changed out multiple times, no rust issues. I've had a front knuckle failure and rear wheel bearings go out, but never a hub failure. I swapped my hubs out 2 years ago after I had my front knuckle failure on track, for peace of mind as they still looked perfectly fine with no cracks.

 

Interesting! How do you successfully change the bearing w/o changing the hub? In particular with the bearing failure? How many times did you do it w/o swapping the hubs? I always thought pressing out bearing will always damage hub if not already worn out from track driving. What mods do you have on the car and what kind of tires to you drive at the track?

My car doesn’t see street driving, salt etc. Rust is not the reason of these failures.
Interestingly, I can tell that bearing on the passenger side of my car is now failing after another 3 events and ~1200 miles. I will have a picture of bearing and Karcepts hub before it failed, once I take it apart. I predict it will be impossible to change just the bearing.

 

You can get the inner bearing race off of the hub with a decent bearing splitter and press. If your a savant with the cutoff wheel you can cut a groove in it and split it with a chisel. Ive done both techniques on the same hub without a subsequent hub failure. Bearing failures happen a lot though. Im hoping new brake ducts for the rear keep me from visiting the wheel bearing graveyard so often.

 

I just did a CRV rear hub conversion 44600-s87-a00 and man, the clearance between the back of the hub and the face of the knuckle is a tight .010. Looks like it could rub under severe load. Anyone else experience this?