Scored rotors are probably from:

1) operating outside of recommended temp range


2) improper bedding


Did you drive the car on the street to the event? Run a couple initial warm-up laps?

 

[QUOTE=TubeDriver,May 11 2009, 06:48 AM] Scored rotors are probably from:

1) operating outside of recommended temp range


2) improper bedding


Did you drive the car on the street to the event?

 

[QUOTE=az3ar,May 11 2009, 06:06 AM] Thank you all for your help, I talked to raceshoppers regarding this and they are asking for pictures since they have never seen this happen before.

We don

 

^ Bill, I was always under the impression when dialing in dbl adjustables that you zero everything out and start with compression. Get that set and then move on to rebound. Is that not the case here because so many folks have the same KW's, thereby providing a better starting point?

Thanks.

 

In that case I would try different pads/rotors. Rotors lasting a single 20 minute session is not acceptable. Next time try Carbotechs or Performance Friction. I like Carbotechs.

 

Yes, the texbook way to feel out and come to the ideal setting is to start out full soft and slowly work you way stiffer with the dampers. Some people start with compression, others start with rebound. I'll have to look through our notes to find out what we started with in our Time Attack NSX.

We learned a lot about our NSX platform and our KW 3-way adjustable race dampers when we used this approach. While this is ideal, it takes a sensitive driver to understand what the adjustments are doing to the car to learn from them and more importantly, it is a TIME CONSUMING process. Many people just want a ballpark and then work from there rather than wasting sessions if not a day doing a lot of outs and ins, making changes, feeling them out, maybe learning from those quick changes, then come in for more changes. A good ballpark for the KW V3 is what I recommended above for street use, this is relatively soft for track use and a good starting point to be closer to the correct setting. Depending on swaybar/spring rates/tire sizing/aero, I can give a pretty good recommendation for setup that should be near ideal.

Again, the KW V3 is a street/track coilover. The damping range is very sensitive but valved in the ballpark for street/track use. For the street I like to be more in the middle of the range while Ive found them to be perfectly damped for track use at the higher range of the adjustment range. Unlike some coilovers that have a narrow operating range where from full soft to full stiff there is a mild change in damping, or other coilovers that are under-damped when soft and over-damped/lock down the damper/prevent it from moving 3/4 of the way to full stiff, making the last 1/4 of the range useless, KW are valved very well with a wide range of sensitive adjustment for street use (near the middle) and track use (closer to full stiff). I've yet to use a spring/setup combination that needed to be full stiff on either compression or rebound, the higher end of the damping range is pretty stiff.

Coilovers and their valving differ, some may be valved where the middle of the range is already on the stiff side (some have an extremely wide range to cover any spring rate you throw at it), wasting all of the room for adjustment in the upper end of the range. Where you end up in the spectrum will vary from damper to damper, setup to setup. I think KW did a good job setting their range for a street/track use.

Most people who has a problem with the KW V3 being 'too soft' have their dampers set 'too soft'. Stiffen them up! Don't be afriad to be a few clicks from full stiff -that's where they need to be for the track.


Billy

 

Especially when there is noone in the hot pits to assist you with incremental changes. I probably look pretty funny rapidly coming to a halt, hopping out of the car, helmet off, and laying on the ground in a suit with a stubby screwdriver making compression adjustments under the car, all with the hopes of getting a couple of laps on that adjustment.

First time trying this was on VIR Full. Long laps are long.

 

Then just do an out and in

 

I say no need for suspension at his point just weld everything together

it will be stiff for sure

 

It would be cheaper to use a metal rod to replace the damper than to buy 20Kg springs.