Rotors look normal from R-16 track use?
11-21-2017, 05:57 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
From what I found on the Stoptech website, I would have thought the street driving on the street to the track (40 miles to CMP) would have removed the previous Stoptech Performance "street" pad material on the rotors prior to the R-16 use. We'll see if the street driving to Road Atlanta (3.5 hrs) helps remove it.
When switching from street pads to track pads, one needs to make sure that as much of the street compound is removed from the rotor as possible before aggressive track use. The risk here is that any street pad material remaining on the rotor will be subject to deterioration from overheating. This can ultimately cause severe vibrations due to uneven pad deposits (a smearing of the street pad material on the rotor face).
A common method for removing street pad material is to install the track pad prior to driving to the event. Because most track pads operate in an abrasive mode during regular street operation, driving them to the track will wear off any existing brake pad material en route. You will know when the street pad material is gone by the squealing noises coming from your brakes after a short while…
A common method for removing street pad material is to install the track pad prior to driving to the event. Because most track pads operate in an abrasive mode during regular street operation, driving them to the track will wear off any existing brake pad material en route. You will know when the street pad material is gone by the squealing noises coming from your brakes after a short while…
11-21-2017, 06:19 AM
#5
Registered User
I've also used brake cleaner on the rotor faces to remove some old pad material but street driving on an aggressive pad where you don't get the brakes too hot will actually do a pretty good job of removing the old transfer layer.
11-21-2017, 04:56 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
12-01-2017, 06:13 AM
#7
transfer layer, pad smear, what ever you want to call it. The best thing to do is resurface the rotors before new pad material touches them. You can get away with not resurfacing them if you are using the exact same type of pad (therefore same material), but you'll probably have brake noise on the street until you go to the track, where the brakes should get hot enough to remove the 'shiny layer' on the rotors. That's what the middle part of the brake surface on your 3rd picture looks like. The pad has worn through the 'shiny layer' and is now wearing the rotor at a faster rate, which is exactly what a race pad is supposed to do, and probably a street/track pad too (although just not as high of a wear rate).
Another option is to take a separate set of pads/rotor with you to the track and change them out, but I'm sure those Stoptech pads/rotor are dang expensive. Actually, I know they are because it's on my very long 'list'.
If it was me I would just look at the rotors after each session and see what they look like through the wheel, and not worry about it unless you notice a loss of braking pressure or it feels like you're losing braking pressure.
Also, when you come straight in after a session don't park the car and let the pads sit over the same place in the rotors. Even though you're not actually holding the brakes, this can still cause rotor warpage due to the difference in cooling rate between the portion of the rotor under the pad and the portion that is visible through the wheel. That being said, if you're not getting them hot enough to remove the 'shiny layer' you probably don't need to worry about this (and I'm sure those big pads/rotors are able to withstand the heat better than a factory setup, even with race pads and fluids).
Haaaave fuuuunn!! CMP is great!
p.s. good choice on the slotted-only rotors!
Another option is to take a separate set of pads/rotor with you to the track and change them out, but I'm sure those Stoptech pads/rotor are dang expensive. Actually, I know they are because it's on my very long 'list'.
If it was me I would just look at the rotors after each session and see what they look like through the wheel, and not worry about it unless you notice a loss of braking pressure or it feels like you're losing braking pressure.
Also, when you come straight in after a session don't park the car and let the pads sit over the same place in the rotors. Even though you're not actually holding the brakes, this can still cause rotor warpage due to the difference in cooling rate between the portion of the rotor under the pad and the portion that is visible through the wheel. That being said, if you're not getting them hot enough to remove the 'shiny layer' you probably don't need to worry about this (and I'm sure those big pads/rotors are able to withstand the heat better than a factory setup, even with race pads and fluids).
Haaaave fuuuunn!! CMP is great!
p.s. good choice on the slotted-only rotors!
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12-01-2017, 08:30 AM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks. I leave for a 4 hr drive soon to run Road Atlanta for the weekend. I’ll keep an eye on it and report back.
transfer layer, pad smear, what ever you want to call it. The best thing to do is resurface the rotors before new pad material touches them. You can get away with not resurfacing them if you are using the exact same type of pad (therefore same material), but you'll probably have brake noise on the street until you go to the track, where the brakes should get hot enough to remove the 'shiny layer' on the rotors. That's what the middle part of the brake surface on your 3rd picture looks like. The pad has worn through the 'shiny layer' and is now wearing the rotor at a faster rate, which is exactly what a race pad is supposed to do, and probably a street/track pad too (although just not as high of a wear rate).
Another option is to take a separate set of pads/rotor with you to the track and change them out, but I'm sure those Stoptech pads/rotor are dang expensive. Actually, I know they are because it's on my very long 'list'.
If it was me I would just look at the rotors after each session and see what they look like through the wheel, and not worry about it unless you notice a loss of braking pressure or it feels like you're losing braking pressure.
Also, when you come straight in after a session don't park the car and let the pads sit over the same place in the rotors. Even though you're not actually holding the brakes, this can still cause rotor warpage due to the difference in cooling rate between the portion of the rotor under the pad and the portion that is visible through the wheel. That being said, if you're not getting them hot enough to remove the 'shiny layer' you probably don't need to worry about this (and I'm sure those big pads/rotors are able to withstand the heat better than a factory setup, even with race pads and fluids).
Haaaave fuuuunn!! CMP is great!
p.s. good choice on the slotted-only rotors!
Another option is to take a separate set of pads/rotor with you to the track and change them out, but I'm sure those Stoptech pads/rotor are dang expensive. Actually, I know they are because it's on my very long 'list'.
If it was me I would just look at the rotors after each session and see what they look like through the wheel, and not worry about it unless you notice a loss of braking pressure or it feels like you're losing braking pressure.
Also, when you come straight in after a session don't park the car and let the pads sit over the same place in the rotors. Even though you're not actually holding the brakes, this can still cause rotor warpage due to the difference in cooling rate between the portion of the rotor under the pad and the portion that is visible through the wheel. That being said, if you're not getting them hot enough to remove the 'shiny layer' you probably don't need to worry about this (and I'm sure those big pads/rotors are able to withstand the heat better than a factory setup, even with race pads and fluids).
Haaaave fuuuunn!! CMP is great!
p.s. good choice on the slotted-only rotors!
12-01-2017, 08:56 AM
#9
BTW, some pads are aggressive enough so you wouldn't need to turn the rotors. For example, Hawk DT-60/70 as well as Blue will clean off just about anything else left behind.
Last edited by DanielB; 12-01-2017 at 04:54 PM.
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