Rubbing WASP Brake Cooler Kit on Rotor
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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Rubbing WASP Brake Cooler Kit on Rotor
I just got done with my first track day (this WASP kit was used previously for quite a while with no issue I believe by the previous owner).
I went to do a brake pad and rotor swap as the previous set was at the end of its life; I thought the rubbing noise was from the pads. When I got to the fronts I realized that the rotor was rubbing pretty substantially on the heat shield portion; I'm not really sure what to do as it cannot really be bent or adjusted.
Has anyone else had this problem and if so any solutions? I honestly am thinking about buying a stock heat shield and just cutting it for the brake ducts, I messed around with it for a few hours tonight with no real results. The spots on the actual cooler itself can be modified I think to give clearance, I'm mainly worried about the heat shield. It's already almost through it on the bottom portion.
Any suggestions?
I went to do a brake pad and rotor swap as the previous set was at the end of its life; I thought the rubbing noise was from the pads. When I got to the fronts I realized that the rotor was rubbing pretty substantially on the heat shield portion; I'm not really sure what to do as it cannot really be bent or adjusted.
Has anyone else had this problem and if so any solutions? I honestly am thinking about buying a stock heat shield and just cutting it for the brake ducts, I messed around with it for a few hours tonight with no real results. The spots on the actual cooler itself can be modified I think to give clearance, I'm mainly worried about the heat shield. It's already almost through it on the bottom portion.
Any suggestions?
#2
Wow. How much clearance does it have to the rotor when cold? Do you figure it's just making contact from rotor expansion when hot, or is the heat warping the wasp shield as well?
As far as what to do, I guess you could just dremel off the bottom where it's rubbing. Easier than swapping the whole thing, and you retain the hypothetically more effective duct path.
As far as what to do, I guess you could just dremel off the bottom where it's rubbing. Easier than swapping the whole thing, and you retain the hypothetically more effective duct path.
#3
How is the play in the wheel bearing?
#4
If it's not part of the duct I would just cut it off. Many people run with no dust shields at all and don't have any issues. Cover your balljoints with heat tape just in case.
Are you on stock calipers?
Are you on stock calipers?
#7
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Wow. How much clearance does it have to the rotor when cold? Do you figure it's just making contact from rotor expansion when hot, or is the heat warping the wasp shield as well?
As far as what to do, I guess you could just dremel off the bottom where it's rubbing. Easier than swapping the whole thing, and you retain the hypothetically more effective duct path.
As far as what to do, I guess you could just dremel off the bottom where it's rubbing. Easier than swapping the whole thing, and you retain the hypothetically more effective duct path.
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#8
^^ this is what I did. I've got aluminum tape wrapped around the dust boots to take care of any radiant heat concerns. I don't really understand why this version of the wasp kit came with a carbon fiber dust shield to begin with. The center duct portion fits really well to the stock rotors and that should be all it needs to be effective.
#9
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^^ this is what I did. I've got aluminum tape wrapped around the dust boots to take care of any radiant heat concerns. I don't really understand why this version of the wasp kit came with a carbon fiber dust shield to begin with. The center duct portion fits really well to the stock rotors and that should be all it needs to be effective.
#10
In the places where you're rubbing I had to hammer the crap out of my stock dust shields so they didn't rub my Sakebomb BBK. I don't think you can do that to the carbon as it will crack.
Cutting them should be easy, just make sure to wear gloves as you'll itch for days.
Cutting them should be easy, just make sure to wear gloves as you'll itch for days.