Sakebomb Garage Wilwood Track-Day Brake System Review
02-23-2018, 04:25 AM
#71
I just ordered this kit, but without pads.
Where are you guys buying pads from? I want to make sure I get the 50mm width.
Any recommendations for what pad to run front and rear? I am going to use this kit up front, 41mm, with stock calipers in the rear. 255 square Dunlop Star Specs.
Car is still driven on the street a couple times a week but about a track day a month.
Where are you guys buying pads from? I want to make sure I get the 50mm width.
Any recommendations for what pad to run front and rear? I am going to use this kit up front, 41mm, with stock calipers in the rear. 255 square Dunlop Star Specs.
Car is still driven on the street a couple times a week but about a track day a month.
02-23-2018, 05:01 AM
#72
SBG recommends that you use the 35mm pistons with the stock rear calipers. That setup will shift the brake bias rearward close to 10%. The 41mm pistons will shift it forward a lot more (haven't done the math for that combination because it doesn't make sense). You'll likely find that stopping distances will be longer than the stock setup (the fronts will go into ABS long before the rears) albeit with less fade.
As for pad compound, sounds like you want to find a single compound for the street and track? Good luck - there really isn't one. For track, I'm a fan of DTC-60 as they handle high temp well, have a nice linear response, aren't too hard on rotors and are reasonably priced. But for the street, they have the typical drawbacks of any track pad: they dust a lot, tend to squeal, and they don't have much friction until they warm up.
One more things about pads: aggressive track pads can wear the rotors very quickly if they never get warm enough (e.g. light driving on the street in the winter). I found this out the hard way.
Swapping pads on these calipers is pretty simple - I don't believe you even need to remove the calipers; just pull the two pins and remove and replace the pads. But it's up to you of course. Seems to me it's a bit of a waste to spend the money on a BBK and then put compromised pads in it.
As for pad compound, sounds like you want to find a single compound for the street and track? Good luck - there really isn't one. For track, I'm a fan of DTC-60 as they handle high temp well, have a nice linear response, aren't too hard on rotors and are reasonably priced. But for the street, they have the typical drawbacks of any track pad: they dust a lot, tend to squeal, and they don't have much friction until they warm up.
One more things about pads: aggressive track pads can wear the rotors very quickly if they never get warm enough (e.g. light driving on the street in the winter). I found this out the hard way.
Swapping pads on these calipers is pretty simple - I don't believe you even need to remove the calipers; just pull the two pins and remove and replace the pads. But it's up to you of course. Seems to me it's a bit of a waste to spend the money on a BBK and then put compromised pads in it.
02-23-2018, 11:09 PM
#73
For replacement parts just shoot us an email, we don't bite 
Thanks for the reviews and kind words everyone!!! We're glad this kit has transformed the track brake market, exactly as we were hoping. Great braking, affordable consumables, amazing heat management. Happy tracking everyone!!!
Thanks for the reviews and kind words everyone!!! We're glad this kit has transformed the track brake market, exactly as we were hoping. Great braking, affordable consumables, amazing heat management. Happy tracking everyone!!!
__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
02-23-2018, 11:14 PM
#74
SBG recommends that you use the 35mm pistons with the stock rear calipers. That setup will shift the brake bias rearward close to 10%. The 41mm pistons will shift it forward a lot more (haven't done the math for that combination because it doesn't make sense). You'll likely find that stopping distances will be longer than the stock setup (the fronts will go into ABS long before the rears) albeit with less fade.
As for pad compound, sounds like you want to find a single compound for the street and track? Good luck - there really isn't one. For track, I'm a fan of DTC-60 as they handle high temp well, have a nice linear response, aren't too hard on rotors and are reasonably priced. But for the street, they have the typical drawbacks of any track pad: they dust a lot, tend to squeal, and they don't have much friction until they warm up.
One more things about pads: aggressive track pads can wear the rotors very quickly if they never get warm enough (e.g. light driving on the street in the winter). I found this out the hard way.
Swapping pads on these calipers is pretty simple - I don't believe you even need to remove the calipers; just pull the two pins and remove and replace the pads. But it's up to you of course. Seems to me it's a bit of a waste to spend the money on a BBK and then put compromised pads in it.
As for pad compound, sounds like you want to find a single compound for the street and track? Good luck - there really isn't one. For track, I'm a fan of DTC-60 as they handle high temp well, have a nice linear response, aren't too hard on rotors and are reasonably priced. But for the street, they have the typical drawbacks of any track pad: they dust a lot, tend to squeal, and they don't have much friction until they warm up.
One more things about pads: aggressive track pads can wear the rotors very quickly if they never get warm enough (e.g. light driving on the street in the winter). I found this out the hard way.
Swapping pads on these calipers is pretty simple - I don't believe you even need to remove the calipers; just pull the two pins and remove and replace the pads. But it's up to you of course. Seems to me it's a bit of a waste to spend the money on a BBK and then put compromised pads in it.
A comment on pads... we need to get our new favorite pads Ferodo DS2500 and DS3000 into the drop down menu for the BBK's. Affordable, great temp range, great modulation and release characteristics, low noise, and a full 50mm tall pad option (unlike the Hawks which are only 43mm tall and do not take advantage of the entire available swept area of the rotor). We stock lots of these pads currently... please contact us for Ferodo pricing until we have it up on the site. The only downside they do not make a RX8 rear pad shape (we're working to remedy this) but you can use a number of Hawk pads in the rear as a substitute.
__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
02-26-2018, 04:14 AM
#75
SBG recommends that you use the 35mm pistons with the stock rear calipers. That setup will shift the brake bias rearward close to 10%. The 41mm pistons will shift it forward a lot more (haven't done the math for that combination because it doesn't make sense). You'll likely find that stopping distances will be longer than the stock setup (the fronts will go into ABS long before the rears) albeit with less fade.
As for pad compound, sounds like you want to find a single compound for the street and track? Good luck - there really isn't one. For track, I'm a fan of DTC-60 as they handle high temp well, have a nice linear response, aren't too hard on rotors and are reasonably priced. But for the street, they have the typical drawbacks of any track pad: they dust a lot, tend to squeal, and they don't have much friction until they warm up.
One more things about pads: aggressive track pads can wear the rotors very quickly if they never get warm enough (e.g. light driving on the street in the winter). I found this out the hard way.
Swapping pads on these calipers is pretty simple - I don't believe you even need to remove the calipers; just pull the two pins and remove and replace the pads. But it's up to you of course. Seems to me it's a bit of a waste to spend the money on a BBK and then put compromised pads in it.
As for pad compound, sounds like you want to find a single compound for the street and track? Good luck - there really isn't one. For track, I'm a fan of DTC-60 as they handle high temp well, have a nice linear response, aren't too hard on rotors and are reasonably priced. But for the street, they have the typical drawbacks of any track pad: they dust a lot, tend to squeal, and they don't have much friction until they warm up.
One more things about pads: aggressive track pads can wear the rotors very quickly if they never get warm enough (e.g. light driving on the street in the winter). I found this out the hard way.
Swapping pads on these calipers is pretty simple - I don't believe you even need to remove the calipers; just pull the two pins and remove and replace the pads. But it's up to you of course. Seems to me it's a bit of a waste to spend the money on a BBK and then put compromised pads in it.
I know you can't get one pad for both track and street, but I only do HPDE and drive my car on the street when the weather is nice. Therefore, I was looking at a compromise pad, which sounds like the DS2500 is for me.
Thanks guys, and Sakebomb for a great deal.
02-26-2018, 03:44 PM
#76
SBG recommends that you use the 35mm pistons with the stock rear calipers. That setup will shift the brake bias rearward close to 10%. The 41mm pistons will shift it forward a lot more (haven't done the math for that combination because it doesn't make sense). You'll likely find that stopping distances will be longer than the stock setup (the fronts will go into ABS long before the rears)
The only thing I did notice is that I went through the fronts much faster than the rear, but in all fairness I was using DS2500. I am going to give a proper track pad setup squared a go before I make any decisions on upgrading the rear and it isn’t because I am “trying to make my setup work”, it is because I really do not know that the increase in front bias isn’t actually better IMO.
Bottom line running the larger piston works just fine IMO with stock rears. Is it “better” to run the rear RX8 kit, it very well might be, but I want my butt to tell me that is the case and it hasn’t yet. I will give it more time.
Edit: I redid the math and I come up with the 35mm is nearly identical to stock bias, 41mm is a 7.5% front shift, AP kit is 6% front shift. This is assuming the same pad compound front/rear
02-28-2018, 03:27 PM
#77
I calculate the area of the pistons as follows:
Stock: 3.55 sq in
Wilwood 35mm: 2.98
Wllwood 41 mm: 4.09
For the effective radius of the rotor, I assumed that the brake pads are 2" tall so the center of the pad is 1" from the edge. This gives the following:
Stock 300 mm: 5.9" - 1" = 4.9"
SBG 325 mm: 6.4" - 1" = 5.4"
The bias changes as the product of the piston area x effective radius. Hence the change for the SBG kits vs. Stock is as follows:
Wilwood 35 mm: (2.98 x 5.4) / (3.55 x 4.9) = 93% or a reduction of 7% in front brake bias
Wilwood 41 mm: (4.09 x 5.4) / (3.55 x 4.9) = 127% or an increase of 27% in front brake bias
7% reduction isn't ideal, but 27% is a lot. I'll guess that's why SBG only recommends the 41 mm calipers for use with their upgraded rear brakes.
Please take a look at your math and let's see where we differ.
02-28-2018, 06:01 PM
#78
G-Loc pads come in the correct 50MM dimensions. I ordered with the larger piston, still on stock rear. Tracked all year just fine, going to go with some more bite in the rear next year. Will be running Gloc R10s front and Raybestos ST43s rear. Fronts pads did end up having some taper at the seasons end.
03-01-2018, 06:25 PM
#79
One of us probably has something wrong with his math.
I calculate the area of the pistons as follows:
Stock: 3.55 sq in
Wilwood 35mm: 2.98
Wllwood 41 mm: 4.09
For the effective radius of the rotor, I assumed that the brake pads are 2" tall so the center of the pad is 1" from the edge. This gives the following:
Stock 300 mm: 5.9" - 1" = 4.9"
SBG 325 mm: 6.4" - 1" = 5.4"
The bias changes as the product of the piston area x effective radius. Hence the change for the SBG kits vs. Stock is as follows:
Wilwood 35 mm: (2.98 x 5.4) / (3.55 x 4.9) = 93% or a reduction of 7% in front brake bias
Wilwood 41 mm: (4.09 x 5.4) / (3.55 x 4.9) = 127% or an increase of 27% in front brake bias
7% reduction isn't ideal, but 27% is a lot. I'll guess that's why SBG only recommends the 41 mm calipers for use with their upgraded rear brakes.
Please take a look at your math and let's see where we differ.
I calculate the area of the pistons as follows:
Stock: 3.55 sq in
Wilwood 35mm: 2.98
Wllwood 41 mm: 4.09
For the effective radius of the rotor, I assumed that the brake pads are 2" tall so the center of the pad is 1" from the edge. This gives the following:
Stock 300 mm: 5.9" - 1" = 4.9"
SBG 325 mm: 6.4" - 1" = 5.4"
The bias changes as the product of the piston area x effective radius. Hence the change for the SBG kits vs. Stock is as follows:
Wilwood 35 mm: (2.98 x 5.4) / (3.55 x 4.9) = 93% or a reduction of 7% in front brake bias
Wilwood 41 mm: (4.09 x 5.4) / (3.55 x 4.9) = 127% or an increase of 27% in front brake bias
7% reduction isn't ideal, but 27% is a lot. I'll guess that's why SBG only recommends the 41 mm calipers for use with their upgraded rear brakes.
Please take a look at your math and let's see where we differ.
04-11-2018, 10:52 AM
#80
One of us probably has something wrong with his math.
I calculate the area of the pistons as follows:
Stock: 3.55 sq in
Wilwood 35mm: 2.98
Wllwood 41 mm: 4.09
For the effective radius of the rotor, I assumed that the brake pads are 2" tall so the center of the pad is 1" from the edge. This gives the following:
Stock 300 mm: 5.9" - 1" = 4.9"
SBG 325 mm: 6.4" - 1" = 5.4"
The bias changes as the product of the piston area x effective radius. Hence the change for the SBG kits vs. Stock is as follows:
Wilwood 35 mm: (2.98 x 5.4) / (3.55 x 4.9) = 93% or a reduction of 7% in front brake bias
Wilwood 41 mm: (4.09 x 5.4) / (3.55 x 4.9) = 127% or an increase of 27% in front brake bias
7% reduction isn't ideal, but 27% is a lot. I'll guess that's why SBG only recommends the 41 mm calipers for use with their upgraded rear brakes.
Please take a look at your math and let's see where we differ.
I calculate the area of the pistons as follows:
Stock: 3.55 sq in
Wilwood 35mm: 2.98
Wllwood 41 mm: 4.09
For the effective radius of the rotor, I assumed that the brake pads are 2" tall so the center of the pad is 1" from the edge. This gives the following:
Stock 300 mm: 5.9" - 1" = 4.9"
SBG 325 mm: 6.4" - 1" = 5.4"
The bias changes as the product of the piston area x effective radius. Hence the change for the SBG kits vs. Stock is as follows:
Wilwood 35 mm: (2.98 x 5.4) / (3.55 x 4.9) = 93% or a reduction of 7% in front brake bias
Wilwood 41 mm: (4.09 x 5.4) / (3.55 x 4.9) = 127% or an increase of 27% in front brake bias
7% reduction isn't ideal, but 27% is a lot. I'll guess that's why SBG only recommends the 41 mm calipers for use with their upgraded rear brakes.
Please take a look at your math and let's see where we differ.
__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit