imstimpy

This has now happened twice in the past two weeks. The first time my right front camber bolt slipped on track. I'd just aligned the night before and thought I'd just missed something. The second time my right front camber bolt slipped while autocrossing. I 100% confirmed it slipped by first putting a ratchet on the bolt head and feeling some movement. I then loosened the nut, pulled camber back to my original setting, and watched toe go from toe-out back to the zero I set originally.

I'm torquing the camber adjustment to 58 ft-lbs, as prescribed by the service manual, with a Snap-on 3/8" digital torque wrench. The rear is 54 ft-lbs for the camber adjustment and 40 ft-lbs for the toe link.

Has anybody found the factory torque specs to be insufficient or, perhaps, found that replacing the bolts corrects the problem?

Possibly related: I have replaced all the bushings in question with Mugen bushings. I didn't compare the widths to the outgoing factory bushings, but I suppose a few thousandths difference might account for more slip...

slowd16

I had a similar problem a few months back. my rear bolts would slip and toe out the rear mid corner then slip back. replaced the bolts and that fixed the issue.

SlowTeg

I think it's common to need to overtorque these bolts to get them to stay when on track, which in turn will lead to them needing to be replaced after a while.

IntegraR0064

You have to way overtorque them, and replace them often. Torquing them to stock specs will make them slip.

imstimpy

I ordered all new cam bolts for the front and rear; I'll replace them on the next round. In the meantime, how much torque is "overtorque"? Elbow click it? The bolt feels like it ought to be secure at 75-80 ft-lbs but I dunno...

IntegraR0064

I'm probably putting more like 100 ft lbs on it, maybe 120...basically just haul on it with my 1/2" ratchet. Not sure what the minimum is for it to not slip.

sweetdill

I've heard of the tack welds that hold the guides for the cam bolt breaking free from the subframe, allowing the camber to slip. When you take apart your cam bolt assembly, make sure that the front and rear guides are securely welded to the subframe. The camber should only move if the cam bolt is being turned, if only the nut is loosened the camber shouldn't be able to change. This may not be your specific problem, but it gave my good friend handling fits for more than a few track days.

Apeatwo

I've had both fronts come loose and the passenger side rear. The drivers front bent the guide causing a knocking sound which made it easy to figure out something was wrong. Two weeks ago the car developed snap oversteer but with little fuss. I got under the car and realized that the front and rear adjusters had turned and the camber was off by more than a degree. This is on a car that sees no track time, just autocross. While they're overtorqued, looks like I need to look into replacing the bolts.

warmmilk

Has anyone considered deleting the eccentric and boxing it off, and using the camber adjustment only with an aftermarket bottom ball joint? Like the j's racing or buddy club...?

rrthorne8

120 on the camber bolts or go home.