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Suspension Options for Stock

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Old 06-03-2018, 02:16 PM
  #11  

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Originally Posted by DavidNJ
You are over thinking it. IMHO the Koni's are a step down from OEM. Anze and FatCat can elaborate. The shocks being discussed here aren't that precise in their settings. And then there is the wear factor. Not the same out of the box and 10k or 50k miles old. Ditto the springs. Minor differences you won't detect unless tested back to back, and then most likely with a stopwatch.

You can even take the car to autocross exactly as you have it. You may not be in the right class, but you will some seat time, a different perspective, and input from the driver's there.
Appreciate the comment on Koni yellows... I may indeed try the Showas I have. If you wanted to go back to OEM springs for BS (and fender clearance) and didn't have any OEM springs, which would you grab? CR springs are $75 NIB and MY02-3s are less than that salvage...

I have thought about just going for a day but I haven't carved it out of my soccer weekends yet :-)
-T

Last edited by talboti; 06-03-2018 at 02:18 PM. Reason: omission
Old 06-03-2018, 03:42 PM
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CR springs aren't legal in B/Street...so I would go with the regular ones. The difference is noticeable back-to-back, but not that significant. You will be fine with tires, the front bar, and OEM shocks/springs; you may also change brake pads, but that is another story. Note: you don't need any of that to try an event.
Old 06-07-2018, 03:34 AM
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Thanks all, I am settled on 294f/309r on Showa with a 393/311 bar set, all OEM non-CR. I'll lets you know how it works.
- T
Old 07-21-2018, 11:29 AM
  #14  

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update... for salvage availability reasons I installed 291f/309r springs on the original Showas. Interestingly the springs were almost cheaper than the replacement bump stops and rubber seats I needed to refurbish the setup. Not exactly sure how the manual writers get the front shock assemblies out by simply breaking the lower ball joint. The upper a-arm has the spring perch pretty well captured. Easy enough to undo the upper bushings but you do need extra hands... Cosmetically a little more gap in front (which I don't love) than rear... ~14.5" hub to fender on the front and ~14.25 on the rear for those interested. Very consistent right to left with bushings torqued with a pre-loaded suspension. Initial drive if feels firmer and higher in the front -- I like it. MTF
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