takchi

It's dependent on what tire you use, how much power you got, what courses you're running, and experiences with different brake pad compounds/manufacturers. I've used all the pads Carbotech and G-LOC have offered and have provided Mike Jr @ Carbotech & Danny @ G-LOC some feedback on various compounds and applications. I have my personal preference, but if you're interested in figuring what will work for your application, don't hesitate to send me a PM. Thanks!

Ricky_Flowers_

Tested the car out at Sebring on a 100F day with G-Loc R16 pads in the front and R10 pads in the rear. I have a few thoughts.

• Pedal feedback and modulation is better than anything I've used previously. You don't lose modulation after the first 20% or so of pedal travel.
• No matter what I did, I couldn't get these pads to fall off at all. Performance was consistent throughout the day. My car has the stock braking system installed currently, and my brake ducts were actually removed prior to this day.
• Warm-up time was found to be pretty minimal. All it took was a few corners of early, consistent braking to warm the pads up. Again, once the pads were within operational temperatures, they did not overheat at all throughout the rest of the day. This was an open test day at Sebring, so the car would stay on track for upwards of 30 minutes at a time with no cool down laps until the very end.
• If you're planning on keeping your stock brakes, and you run R-compound tires, get the R18s and maybe the R12s for the rear. The R16 would stop the car when braking late, but I had to put way more pressure on the brake pedal than I was really comfortable doing. In contrast, the Hawk DTC-70s would slow the car down easily even when braking late. Braking distance with the Hawks was limited by grip and balls.
• I put nearly 200 track miles over three hours of hot track time on these pads, and it looks like they barely wore down. If I had to guess, they're down maybe 1mm front and rear from new. The pads have an additional 800 or so street miles.

Overall, I'm happy with them but would run a more aggressive compound in the future. As I intend to go to a big brake solution in the near future, this isn't really pertinent to my situation, but only goes to back up G-Loc's reputation as the makers of good track pads. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another set og G-Loc pads, although probably the R18 instead of the R16.

Singh_snisen

R16 ftw.

R18 are too much. The pedal feel and bias on street tires were way off. U need full slicks to run these bad boys.

s2000Junky

Interesting that R16 didn't feel aggressive enough. R18 I thought was more an endurance pad rather then big bite anyway? Maybe running the R10 vs R12 or 16 in the rear biased to the front too much, reducing overall brake power? Or maybe its the other way around, and the R16 never got up enough temp in them to brake at full force?

As mentioned I'm going to be trying out the R16 with my Stoptechs and R12 in rear on OEM brakes in August. I'm also ducted all the way around. Hoping they will be at/near optimum temp range. I couldn't get through a full day without losing brake pedal previously, so wanted to make sure I addressed everything I could think of.

Ricky_Flowers_

They absolutely got to temp, so that's not the issue. When I say "braking late" I mean I'm braking at the 250 mark or less at every corner. At Sebring. In 100F degree weather.

I think the torque value of the friction compound increases as you move up the range. Therefore, R16 < R18. Perhaps going up to an R12 in the rear might help solve my issue, but I'd probably move up to an R18 and R12 simultaneously. I actually prefer the initial bite of a more aggressive compound as it helps me set the car for turn-in. I hate having to really jab the shit out of the brake pedal in order to get good weight transfer to the front axle on turn-in. I'd rather brush the brake pedal as I turn in. This is purely personal preference, but if you're like me, you probably won't like these pads. I'd definitely sacrifice modulation for outright stopping power, to an extent.

s2000Junky

Well I tend to operate the brakes the same, with similar preference. Hopefully I wont be disappointed. Running HP+ prior, I actually liked the stopping force/bite these had, they just couldn't hold up to the heat and make it through more then half a day. I'm hoping for similar brake feel/ bite or more.

bgoetz

Hmm, your feedback on pad wear is interesting and is making me wonder if I don't need a more aggressive compound. I am running R10/R8 now and after 5hrs of track time I have used ~45% in the front and ~30% rear. If you only lost 1mm your doing WAY better than that. Although I will caution that I thought I did way better until I actually took them off and could get a clear view of pad wear.

Singh_snisen

The r16 is great for banging on the brakes from a cold start. They have great bite and feel to them and they r very predictable. They do not have the intensity bite of the wilwood compound A. But they are way better because of the better modulation and predictability imo. Also the life on them are great. 2 track days on them and they haven't moved in depth.

The r18 bite when cold is garbage. u really need to heat them up. They have crazy high temps. With street tires my abs was kicking in on every corner turn in. Maybe even with 100tw ur abs will kick in. That's y I recommend slicks with r18 or just stay with the r16.

Danny Puskar

The R18 is NOT an endurance compound. It can be used for endurance applications, but it's a true sprint compound. R18 has the most bite and torque of anything offered by G-LOC Brakes. I would not run R16 on the rear of an S2000 unless you have a manual brake bias adjuster in the car. Depending on tires and suspension mods you should run either the R8, R10, or R12 on the rear.

Cooling ducts are a must on all S2000's. What brake fluid are you running?

s2000Junky

I'm running a 275/315 stagger, which is why a R16 came into question as a possibility for me in the rear, however I went with the safe option and went with the R12.

Id love to be able to manual adjust the f/r brake bias, but don't know enough about who makes an applicable option.

I'm running RBF660 this year.