Torque settings for wheels on a track day
What are you guys torquing your wheels to when tracking?
I just got back from a track day last night and I kept having to re-torque my wheels back to 80 ft/lb. For some odd reason the rear drivers wheel kept backing out a bit after a session of maybe 4-5 laps.
I assume that wheels was more an issue because the track was geared more towards big right turns forcing most of the weight to be transferred to it.
I'm running Work Meisters with Rays lugs...
I just got back from a track day last night and I kept having to re-torque my wheels back to 80 ft/lb. For some odd reason the rear drivers wheel kept backing out a bit after a session of maybe 4-5 laps.
I'm running Work Meisters with Rays lugs...
Are you torqueing them while super hot right after coming off track or after the car has cooled down right before your next session? Anti-seize? I use anti-seize and 85 ft-lbs. I use steel lugs as well.
That could be due to someone hitting the lugs with an impact gun and stretching the threads out. My friend had a similar problem with all four wheels where he'd torque them down to spec, do a run on the dragon, and they would all be backing out.
I torque mine to 90 ft/lb between sessions.
I torque mine to 90 ft/lb between sessions.
At one point they might have been shot on with a impact gun when I had a guy do my fenders...
I originally torqued them when they were cold... went out and checked them right after my session (hot) and then re-torqued them. Kept having to do that over and over while they were hot. Is anti seize a good idea?
I think eventually I'll get a set of track wheels/rubber and steel lugs... but it's not in the budge at the moment... I think what I'll do is increase my torque settings to 90 ft/lbs.
Thanks
I originally torqued them when they were cold... went out and checked them right after my session (hot) and then re-torqued them. Kept having to do that over and over while they were hot. Is anti seize a good idea?
I think eventually I'll get a set of track wheels/rubber and steel lugs... but it's not in the budge at the moment... I think what I'll do is increase my torque settings to 90 ft/lbs.
Thanks
I torque mine to ~83 ft-lbs in the morning and generally don't re-torque for the rest of the day.
When I still had the OEM brake setup in the rear, it'd go so hot back there that I had to re-torque the rear lug nuts, but now that I have a vented Wilwood setup, they no longer loosen.
FYI, DO NOT check or re-torque hot unless you want to break your studs. ALWAYS let them cool first.
When I still had the OEM brake setup in the rear, it'd go so hot back there that I had to re-torque the rear lug nuts, but now that I have a vented Wilwood setup, they no longer loosen.
FYI, DO NOT check or re-torque hot unless you want to break your studs. ALWAYS let them cool first.
I torque mine to ~83 ft-lbs in the morning and generally don't re-torque for the rest of the day.
When I still had the OEM brake setup in the rear, it'd go so hot back there that I had to re-torque the rear lug nuts, but now that I have a vented Wilwood setup, they no longer loosen.
FYI, DO NOT check or re-torque hot unless you want to break your studs. ALWAYS let them cool first.
When I still had the OEM brake setup in the rear, it'd go so hot back there that I had to re-torque the rear lug nuts, but now that I have a vented Wilwood setup, they no longer loosen.
FYI, DO NOT check or re-torque hot unless you want to break your studs. ALWAYS let them cool first.
Thanks for the tip.
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Brian617
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Jan 13, 2012 09:51 AM







