What would you consider to be the best brake pad for all out, no compromise, hard braking track use?

I don't want a compromise pad because I don't mind changing pads at the track. I have used Hawk Blues for many, many years on the CRX-Si and have always been happy with them. So they dust a bit, so you have to clean your wheels once a day, so they consume rotors, they work great and I have never gotten them to hot.

Stay with Hawk or give one of the others a try?

 

If you ask me, I'll say Carbotech XPs with no reservations whatsoever. XPs is a no compromise pad. Its one serious track pad. Having tried both kinda uniquely qualifies me to comment. It has a .58 friction coefficient, much high than the Blues. It feels a lot better than the Blues. Its grabs alot harder than the blues. It modulates a lot better than the Blues. Its treats your rotors a lot easier than the Blues. It will not fade, like the Blues. It wears very long like the Blues. But, you can drive with it to the track as well. Kinda like eating your cake too. One thing though, this pads grabs so hard, with very light pedal effort. You kinda feel if you stomp on them, they'll rip your suspension off!!!!

Lastly, it costs cheaper. Hawk doesn't make front pads for the S, you'll need to have them custom made. HB113s used for the Del Sol, works but the fit is too loose for me. I like my brakes perfect, my life depends on it.

 

BBSpoon, thanks for the reply. Wow, Hawk Blues are not an off the shelf item for the front of the S2000? That eliminates them because I will start by using the same pads front and rear. So it is looking like Panther XP or Porterfield R4E.

 

I have asked this question before.. there are many competition pads and a number that people have tried, but most find something good and stick with it so there are few comparisons.

I have been using the P+ pads with good results (stops great, no failures, low rotor wear) and getting just a little less than the expected 6 hours of track time per set.. but as a novice I probably use more brake than I need to.

Would like to try the R4 pads, and XP's, and the #3's this year and write up a comparison but don't know if I can fund enough events.

Rather than a poll I would like to see impressions from someone than used them all.

 

What are the "#3's"?

That would be great, now if we could find a few people out there that have. I would also like to know what track they were at because some tracks are just not as hard on brakes as others.

(And you are right, more experience does cause one to use the brakes over a shorter period of time with higher pressure, trying to maximize the opportunities of no braking for cooling.)

 

That refers to the Brakeman compound that is used on the competition pads that Rick sells for the Pinnacle brake offerings. Here is all I have found other than a couple of happy users..

HERE IS THE ANSWER TO ALL OF YOUR ALUMINUM ROTOR NEEDS! COMPOUND NUMBER 2 AND 3 BOTH PROVIDE AN EXCELLENT COEFFICIENT OF FRICTION ON ALUMINUM ROTORS, BUT ARE NOT ABRASIVE. IF YOU HAVE BEEN USING ALUMINUM ROTORS, YOU KNOW THAT YOU EITHER GET A HARD PEDAL, BUT THE CAR WON'T STOP, OR THE PAD BITES GREAT, BUT DESTROY THE ROTORS. WE HAVE THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. THE PAD PUTS OUT TREMENDOUS TORQUE, BUT IS NOT ABRASIVE AT ALL! WE HAVE HUNDREDS OF SATISFIED USERS WHO TELL US NO OTHER PAD COMES CLOSE TO DELIVERING LIKE "THE BRAKE MAN!"

Here is more info:

Compound#3

For those severe duty conditions encountered on all cars being run on hard braking tracks, or cars being driven by drivers whose style demands the most from the brake system, we have developed a pad that can handle temperatures including the glowing red rotor conditions, (1200 degrees Fahrenheit and up). At the same time, the coefficient of friction stays high (approximately .48) and is very consistent throughout the temperature range. This pad is perfect for asphalt applications on all cars including Grand National applications. It also works great on aluminum rotors where lower grades of aluminum are used, in fact, THIS IS THE BEST PAD AVAILABLE TODAY FOR ALUMINUM ROTORS! If you are converting to the lightweight "REVOLUTION" rotor, we recommend you use this pad for the best results and rotor life.

 

I am using brake man #3 pads and love them. Haven't found any fade, not very dirty either. Works just as well cold as hot and with 25% left it felt just as solid as when they were brand new. It would take serious convincing for me to try something different.

I used them at buttonwillow race #1 config (dry and wet) and at streets of willows CW with the bowl. that setup at buttonwillow has some very heavy braking zones approaching star mazda, sunrise, the on ramp and the bus stop. SOW had a couple spots with some heavy braking, but not as much.

you can PM or email me for more info on the pads.

 

OK, the Porterfield R4-E is not an option.
I just heard back from Porterfield:

From: Wendy
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: Customer Contact - RaceBrakes.com

The R-4 is designed to work well with many heat cycles. R4-E is better for
one or two heat cycles. That is why it is and Endurance compound they are
made for long races where they usually only see one heat cycle.

 

cdelena and The Unabageler, many thanks for the info. Sounds like Brakeman compound #3 might be the way to go.

OK, I confess, I don't know and I can't run out to the parking lot with a magnet. Does the S2000 have aluminum rotors or cast iron/steel?

 

Hawk Blue and Panther XP would be good choices. The Panther XP has a peak friction coefficient performance of PFC 01 level, which makes the pad one of the best pure road racing compounds available. What makes it better than other track-specific compounds I have seen and tested is:

1. much broader operating temp range (225-1450F)
2. much more rotor friendly
3. thermal degredation is better (less cracking of the puck)

Keep in mind that with any high performance track compound, your tires are as important, if not more important than the pads you select for effective brakings, especially if you use stock width wheels.

The calipers are cast, and I believe they are a steel/iron alloy.

JMO.

-- Chris