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^^I have been wanting this kit that pwjdm makes. But too expensive haha. Knowing me Ima braking that thing in half going off road the first session
want someone else to build a full front to back diffuser that u can get a bigger front splitter options and a rear massive diffuser option. And they should have ducts feeding in air for the front and maybe the rear brakes. And maybe and option to mount ur oil coolers near these panels and it can be fed with fresh air.
^^I have been wanting this kit that pwjdm makes. But too expensive haha. Knowing me Ima braking that thing in half going off road the first session
want someone else to build a full front to back diffuser that u can get a bigger front splitter options and a rear massive diffuser option. And they should have ducts feeding in air for the front and maybe the rear brakes. And maybe and option to mount ur oil coolers near these panels and it can be fed with fresh air.
The underbody tray is a big piece that the sections need to interlock and/or be supported on the ends. The Password:JDM brackets are interesting even if the unit itself is expensive. In addition to expensive it probably doesn't go close enough to the wheels or wide enough in the middle.
In either case, the front fenders should be vented, the engine undetray will require significant hood ducting. The hood ducting should be setup so it maximizes radiator outflow and doesn't disturb the high pressure area at the base of the windshield. On many S2ks the ducts there can be a lot of force induction or just airflow ducting in the space between the engine and radiator, which would become a critical radiator airflow area. Often the hood ducts go very far back covering the exhaust and a still air area around the intake manifold. Ceramic thermal coating should be able to reduce heat released into the engine compartment; they are relatively inexpensive and readily available.
Front brakes are typically ducted through the front bumper and S2ks already have spaces for these ducts. Some have ducted the rear from the undercarriage, but it is hard to see why that would be necessary if the rear brakes had a enough mass. Urge, using the OEM caliper, and Sakebomb, using an RX-8 caliper have non-floating vented rear disks with more mass. If this is a track-only car that can do away with the parking brake and use a racing caliper in the rear. That isn't common although StopTech used to have a kit. I've long thought that the relatively inexpensive calipers and rotor used on super late model stock cars (e.g. PFC Z94s with V3 rotors) could be adapted. They would require custom hats and caliper brackets.
Or instead of working on aero you could work on the suspension. There are Honda Civics running around with a pushrod rear suspension located in the rear. The rear should easily fit an S2k in the rear, and maybe the front. Minimally, that would let you use inexpensive oval track shocks (a set of Penske 8300s for $3300, 4-way adjustable Ohlins TTX/ILX for $5000. It would also open the option for a front heave spring to maintain front ride height under braking. This is a GTR with a heave spring:
Update: That was a bit off topic, but these modifications are a continuum with trade-offs at each stage. The flat bottom has major trade-offs in cooling and is very sensitive to ride height. The heave spring is one way to help maintain an aero-advantageous ride height on track.
I'll be using NACA ducts for the diff and trans with small spal fans with oil coolers mounted in the bumper vents I also will have a spal extreme duty 12" fan so suck air from under the car and send it rearward. I know it's not legal in any sactioned body but I am working towards the big ben open road rally. Looking to beat up on vettes and super cars.
So I used panel bond on each side of the trunk lid to reinforce it and it worked awesomely. It cost around 100$ for to tubes of the epoxy and an aplictor gun. I topped out 5th gear 4 times and run up 6th a few times with no bending.
Where exactly did you apply the panel bond? I was actually going to buy some cause I need to put the rivnut back in the end of the wing as I managed to knock my end plate off and the rivnuts went with it.
Where exactly did you apply the panel bond? I was actually going to buy some cause I need to put the rivnut back in the end of the wing as I managed to knock my end plate off and the rivnuts went with it.
Get a pack of DP420ns for repairs like that. Tough and chemical resistant, and has a remarkably long shelf life (I have a 3 year old pack I'm still using...)
Get a pack of DP420ns for repairs like that. Tough and chemical resistant, and has a remarkably long shelf life (I have a 3 year old pack I'm still using...)
Correct I added an extra fastener to both ends of my wing to keep it together. As for the application of the panel bond I used the caulking gun for it with the screw on aplictor and filled the edges where the trunk sees stress at both mounting locations. I removed the bump stops and filled in below them then reinstalled them before it sat up. So the adjustable ones and the outer bottom cr style stops. This keeps the rear of the wing from crushing the trunk lid. At the front mounts I installed spacers then reinstalled the wing and panel bond them in. Sorry if this doesn't make sense. I can't really take a pic of it as the area is a tight fit even for the thin applicatior. I can say that the weak spot it now the trunk henges themselves.
Guys, Here's what I did. Seems to have done the trick for my smaller GTC-200 Wing. Not as extreme as the above for sure....but I would expect it couldn't hurt to do this for the larger wings as well:
01-30-2017, 03:26 PM
