plus, unless they've done the clutch interlock bypass, there exists a potential for dry starts. That leads to catastrophic engine loss. Those low mileage cars tend to sit too long without circulating oil.
darcy

 

I think you need to create a ‘must have’ box and if what you’re after has them all then go for it

 

Unfortunately, at this point many of them are dry rotted--even if they're not worn out. It's difficult because it's one of those optional wear items until they're beyond gone. I think the original hydraulic ones, even the last ones, are probably on their last legs at this point. You can replace them yourself if you're quite handy and don't mind working under the car for a good while. I haven't attempted to do mine, but I can very clearly feel that they're worn.

I think in terms of consumables that are likely gone purely by dry rot / age irregardless of miles will be:

• Serpentine belt
• Engine mounts
• Bushings (likely on their last legs, or on the way to go)
• Shocks
• Coolant expansion tank (should be a quick visual check)
• Swaybar end links

In terms of common problems that just show up irregardless of miles:

• Low mileage and neglected CMC (Clutch Master Cylinders) without regular changes, will be leaking clutch (brake) fluid
• Timing chain tensioner (replace with Billman TCT, do this proactively anyways)
• AP1 retainers cracking (please replace this proactively)
• Wheel bearings cracking (haven't seen this outside of track use on S2ki, but still something to keep note)
• Improperly torqued axle nuts
• Seized caster adjusters
• Worn soft top straps (buy them before Modifry closes for good)
• Broken catalytic converters (rattle noise)
• Worn inner CV buckets (vibration under acceleration at higher speeds)
• Lack of valve adjustments (engine will either sound too quiet, or rattley)
• IACV needs cleaning
• PCV needs cleaning
• Torque sensor failure
• Oil consumption (not fixable, but something to check immediately after you buy the car, as burning oil in VTEC is not just common but rather expected)
• Notchy shifter due to old transmission fluid
• Improperly adjusted freeplay on clutch master cylinder
• Cigarette lighter has loosened over time, now rattling and loose

I'm probably missing a bunch more, but these are things that you need an S2000 specialist to take a look at. If you have a friend that already owns an S2000 and really knows their car inside and out, try to bring them with you ON TOP of the pre-purchase inspection, especially when you're paying that much. A lot of these issues that the PPI won't catch (such as improperly adjusted freeplay, leaking CMC, etc) will be caught just purely by driving feel.

These cars seem to be pretty reliable, but a few more things are just showing up purely due to age. Don't let this stress you out--factor this into your budget when you are purchasing the S2000 and negotiate items that need replacement.

 

Purchase price of a 16 to 23-year old car is just the tip of the iceberg. Our cars are remarkably reliable but $28,000 is a good chunk of cash toward a new car with a factory warranty. The S2000 has always been a niche car and some are still daily driven. Deferred maintenance is common. Damaged and worn out parts are getting obscenely expensive if they're even available. Honda dealers may have one tech who knows the car -- I had to show the mechanic at the dealer 3 miles away how to start/stop mine when I stopped in today to get the brake wear checked.

The best advice I can give is to buy the newest (OK, least-old ) car you can find and that excludes all but the AP2V2 cars. An '07 is a good choice (my car missed being an '07 by a couple of weeks) and celebrates her 17th birthday this month. Preventive maintenance is the best maintenance.

Make a Priority List. Items on the top of the list are mandatory. Those lower are nice to have. If color is vital put it first so you're not looking at colors you really don't want (color was not even on my list so, of course, mine is Silverstone). 2006 or later was #1 followed by pure stock and the usual low mileage, all 10 VIN tags, no accidents items. Car I bought was not pure stock but OEM wheels were still commonly available 9 years ago so the horrible black wheels could be ignored. Under 40,000 miles. You're getting the idea and the Priority List will create a short list to even look at.

-- Chuck

 

My advice is to get an AP2! Just kidding kind of. Unless you have driven the AP1 and think you prefer the 9k redline the AP2 is superior in every other way. It has enough torque to be fun without going into vtec and has many kinks worked out in addition to having some desirable cosmetic changes. Also if you’re in CA there are plenty of S2ks. You just need to be a little patient. With 28k to spend you won’t have much of a problem finding a good car without major any major headaches. If you need to stretch your dollar look for lower priced colors like silver, red or black. I don’t think they are worse but they don’t carry as much of a color premium as some others. Actually I love black.

 

Arm chair racing here: I think AP1's rear suspension geometry really does classify it into its own unique car--on top of the famous 9000 RPM redline. That bump steer is INSANE. Oh, and the better dash. I seriously want both...

How do I justify to my significant other TWO convertibles in the household though?

 

his and hers!

 

His and hers? Contact @Birdybog . I think he still has a pair and can tell you how it works.

-- Chuck

 

They’re both good cars.

Buy the one you like more. For a street car, at this point, I really don’t think the ownership experience/maintenance is going to be all that different.

I own an early AP1 and have zero interest in an AP2. My AP1 has been very easy on me through 7.5 years of ownership and about 27k miles.

 

buy hard tops.