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Anybody here use Race Ramps?

Old 06-15-2019, 09:26 PM
  #21  

 
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Originally Posted by AZS2KDancer
Are those cribs really safer than using jack stands for when I need to get under the car for coolant, tranny and diff fluid changes?
Well, there not gonna tip over or slip/slide and if one did fail, it's a high density foam so it would have to start caving in...kinda like wood. You won't get any sudden failures like you can experience with cheap jack stands. Each crib is rated at 1500 lbs...so that's 6000 lbs if you put the car up on all 4s. An S2000 weighs around 2800 lbs...I'd say that's about as safe as you get without going to a dedicated lift...which takes up a lot of space and is out of the price range for many people.

Originally Posted by hecash
Before I bought my QuickJack, I made my own cribs for something less than $20. You can do all four wheels with two (2) 2"x12"x12' planks and a few feet of 1x2 or 2x2 for chocks. I used them for something like 20 years. I gave them to a fellow S-owner after I got the QuickJack.


Yes, wood is another good option and is relatively safe if constructed properly. The only issue with wood is: you have to have the tools to cut the wood (of course, Lowes/HD will cut it for you but only if their saw is working, I've had bad luck with that); I priced it out and the amount of wood I would need, using 2x10s, was a lot more than $20, so unless you can find the wood cheap or have a source, not as economical as it appears for most; wood is heavy and gets tiresome moving around the shop and certainly not as convenient to transport if you are going to a track event; splinters!
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short round (06-18-2019)
Old 06-16-2019, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by CH53Driver
I priced it out and the amount of wood I would need, using 2x10s, was a lot more than $20, so unless you can find the wood cheap or have a source, not as economical as it appears for most; wood is heavy and gets tiresome moving around the shop and certainly not as convenient to transport if you are going to a track event; splinters!
I think that it's reasonable to assume that if it cost me $20 at the time 20 years ago that the compound effect of inflation over that period might make today's cost twice or a bit more that twice than my original cost for framing quality boards. Not one splinter over 20 years.
Old 06-16-2019, 07:39 AM
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Build vs buy. That equation will differ for each of us. How much our time is worth, our skills and tools for construction of whatever would be built, money saved, etc.

When I was younger, and broker, and time wasn't worth as much, it probably would have went the other way. But today, for me, its buy.

My concern though is my driveway is sloped. Concern is the base isn't wide enough, and they would topple over. Anyone have experience with sloped surface with these?

With the jack stands, I often place a strip of wood under downhill side of stand, to make it sit level. Perhaps I could build a wedge or something to place under the cribs to make them level?

Of course, now we're buying AND building...
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CH53Driver (06-16-2019)
Old 06-16-2019, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hecash
I think that it's reasonable to assume that if it cost me $20 at the time 20 years ago that the compound effect of inflation over that period might make today's cost twice or a bit more that twice than my original cost for framing quality boards. Not one splinter over 20 years.
And most wood today is poor quality (fast growth pine that is young when it is harvested). I spent too much time trying to find decent wood and when you do, the cost+the time to build your own wasn't worth it to me, especially when you consider the convenience of the race ramps. Considering one set is $100 shipped and most people probably only need one set, it seems like a no brainer to me. Plus, I think they are much safer than any comparable jack stands you can find on the market, especially considering the cost. The only jack stand that is out there that I would buy right now is an American made stand which will run you about $350 for a pair, before buying additional specialized plates for the make of your car. But if you want to pair, now you are at $700 which is just shy of many "portable" lifts. Link:

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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
Build vs buy. That equation will differ for each of us. How much our time is worth, our skills and tools for construction of whatever would be built, money saved, etc.

When I was younger, and broker, and time wasn't worth as much, it probably would have went the other way. But today, for me, its buy.

My concern though is my driveway is sloped. Concern is the base isn't wide enough, and they would topple over. Anyone have experience with sloped surface with these?

With the jack stands, I often place a strip of wood under downhill side of stand, to make it sit level. Perhaps I could build a wedge or something to place under the cribs to make them level?

Of course, now we're buying AND building...
Time=Money. I build stuff when I can't find a suitable alternative on the market, but if there is something that is available and is going to benefit my work and time, while being a well built product, I will always go that route now unless it's just not financially viable. As far as lifting on a uneven surface, I would never advise that. However, that is up to you. I will say that the race ramps are very portable, because they are very lite compared to anything else out there, that if you had a place you could go that was level then that would be another option for you.

I am not affiliated with any of these companies that I have discussed, just so no one thinks I am trying to be a shill for a specific product. The OP wanted to get input on RR and being I own this product and think they are the best option on the market for the price and safety, I have nothing but good things to say about them. I used to have a set of the RR service ramps for my GT500 about 10 years ago when I had one. That car was 3800 pounds and front heavy, never had any issues with those ramps sliding when pulling up or backing off of them and they were solid. Can't say the same about the Rhino ramps. I tried a set of those for my wife's RAV4, one kicked out on me while pulling up onto them causing the other one to fail. I can provide pictures of said ramp if anyone wants to see the evidence. Went off like a shotgun when the one failed, fortunately I was in the vehicle and nothing was damaged other than the ramp that failed.

Last edited by CH53Driver; 06-16-2019 at 09:56 AM.
Old 06-16-2019, 09:58 AM
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Oh and the splinter part was a joke...kind of. If you wear quality gloves, then probably don't have to worry about it as much.
Old 06-18-2019, 07:41 PM
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regarding ramps - I was too cheap so I just made some ghetto wooden extenders to use w/ the generic car ramps so my puddy lip would clear



Old 06-19-2019, 05:00 AM
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I did the same, except mine don't look as nice, and are way heavier, more awkward to move. Yours are inspiring.

But the ramps I have suck. Its almost impossible to get the car up first shot, as one or both ramps will shoot out from engine torque at the rear. Or for the front if I brake too early it shoots out. My sloped driveway doesn't help.
Old 10-20-2019, 04:08 AM
  #28  
Bri

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I finally bought the XT ramps and couldn’t be happier. Yeah they’re very pricey but the amount of lift it provides along with its ease of use makes it worth it.

Thanks to everyone who replied to this thread especially to @BootsS2K and @CH53Driver for the pictures you guys posted.
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Old 10-20-2019, 05:17 PM
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I built a set for mine out of wood. 6 pieces of 2x6 cut into the ramp shape and glue laminated together. Plenty strong, but heavy and clunky :P With the STR setup I only have about 3.5 inches under the pinch welds so the rears have to be pretty short to work. But that just gets it high enough to get a jack under it to the center jack point. Buying is really a better option and they will be lighter/easier to use. But I had a bunch of scrap and had the table saw out, so I just built em :P

My thing with the race ramps (The bigger longer ones) is I am oinly going to get the rear up 3.5" max since that is the tallest thing that fits under the car. So unless I am just needing to do something to the rear part of the exhaust, need clearance for an oil drain pan (I have a quick valve so do not need to get under it to take the plug out) or touch a sway bar, then the ramps are only good enough to get it high enough to jack up. So most times, I just use the 4 pieces of 2/10 I originally made to drive it onto so I could get the jack under it anyways
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