Ok, after f***ing up by front right side brake line by not using a flare nut wrench I now have a replacement line from Honda (and the correct wrench from Sears). It's a fully shaped line so no bending and is flared and has nuts installed, complete ready to go.

My question is how do I replace the old one without getting fluid all over the damn place? Should I drain the line and resevoir first or is there some special trick?

 

It seems to me there is no other choice without the danger of getting fluid where you don

 

I don't know a trick either! But make sure, duh, not to get that stuff on any painted surfaces. Well, how about plugging the one end of the line coming from the master cylinter with something so it doesn't drip? Is seems that is where you are concerned with the fluid coming from, yes?

That's as close to any trick that I can think of...let me know how it goes, cuz I am putting ss lines on Scarlet in the coming months...

 

I didn't do this when I changed mine but...
You can put some plastic wrap on the resevior(sp?) using a rubber band to secure it. This will stop if from venting thru the cap. If nothing else it should slow it down.
I didn't loose that much fluid when I changed mine without trying this.

p.s. flare nut wrenchs are real handy huh

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by funcar:
[B]
p.s. flare nut wrenchs are real handy huh

 

No I'm really in the shitter on this one. What an ugly mess. It's not the hose I'm replacing, it's the whole line from the master cylinder to the wheel well on the front passenger side. If you go out and look under the hood you will see what I'm talking about. You will see how the line has a billion bends and twists in it, running from the master cylinder, under the resevoir, behind the engine, under the fuse box and finally into the wheel well. I guess this in itself wouldn't be that bad except that the line comes pre-bent. The are all sorts of clips retainers hoses and pipes running all over.

Just for fun I tried to figure out how to thread this 6' long bent up piece of tubing and realized it was near impossible.

My main concern is the fluid that will leak out of the master cylinder once I disconnect the line from it.

Doh!

 

Yeah, even after draining it as well as you can you will need to quickly cap the line and cylinder after you get them apart to keep from dripping. I would guess this is a part that seldom gets replaced so you will be in an exclusive club.

Good luck.. let us know how it goes.

 

I just had a thought...correct me if I'm wrong, but make sure the cap on the master cylinder is on so that the vacuum will tend to keep the fluid in the line as you remove the rubber hose near the wheels. After all, the fluid would have to be replaced with air and if you don't let any air get introduced into the line, then most of the fluid will stay in there. It's like putting your finger on the top of a straw full of liquid...

Right? Yes? No?

 

No... the cap is vented

 

I don