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Check Engine - Why 3 Trips?
My Check Engine light came on today. Scared the hell out of me. First I thought it was the spark plugs (no TSB yet). Then I remembered reading something on this site (thank God for this web site) about the gas cap being loose. Sure enough, the thing was loose. I'm assuming this is what caused the light to go on. (Yes, I read the previous posts). My question is this. Why does it take "3+ drives" to get the check engine light to go out? And how is a "drive" defined? I drove around the block, shut the car off and drove again. Then repeated the process. 3 drives...light still on. Does 3 drives mean after the engine cools? Is there a distance variable? Any ideas?
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In the VW/Audi world, we have a tool called Vag-Com that emulates a dealership scan tool on your laptop. You can check error codes, reset check engine lights, monitor and log engine parameters (boost, timing, injector duty cycle, intake temp, etc.), change power lock/alarm settings, etc. It costs $199. Isn't there something similar available for Hondas?
-Nick |
I pulled the fuse to reset mine because the light never went out.
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Originally posted by Flyin Wedge I pulled the fuse to reset mine because the light never went out. That's scary. What if it was on for another reason? |
In my case it took 2 days and 5 15-miles trips separated by 8-9 hours to get rid of that light. Be patient and don't take out any fuse!!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------- 02 Silver/black.....forever stock 01 Silver 540.....also stock |
Been through the same routine. First time the dealer reset it. Next time I just waited for it to go out. Took 4 or 5 "trips." Loose gas cap is the cause due to rachet mechanism I guess.
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this car has the worst gas cap of all.
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So you guys don't have a scan tool available? Where's all this "superior technology" I keep hearing about? Pulling fuses sucks... :rolleyes:
-Nick |
Pull the ECU backup fuse for 30 secs. It's the 3rd one down from the top of the right bank of fuses under the driver's dash. It's the 7.5 amp one.
As for not pulling a fuse, if you're pretty sure it's because of the gas cap, this'll save you driving around and around and around. If it's something else, the CEL will come back on real quick anyway. |
Not worried to much because I've seen others post about the light not going out,and every time the light came on the gas cap was loose.
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