New member with suspension issue
 

Hey guys, brand new to this forum. Last year I purchased a 2000 Honda S2000 that has some aftermarket parts, including aftermarket suspension. It is lowered on coilovers so much so that the car rubbed on normal interstate bumps/dips the entire 10hr drive home. My wife had to warn me of bumps (driving in front of me) so I could slow to minimize the rub. Anyway, from day 1 the car has had a loud creek from the rear suspension, especially the password get side. I did raise the car so it no longer rubs when driving but any idea what to look for to eliminate the creeking? I’m 49 years old and just enjoying driving, not racing.

Here is a pic of the car and some of the aftermarket parts.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...3fd340857.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...11fb4c63c.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...22545bc32.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...4e8382e2e.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...8b507821a.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...1236ae5d7.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...263278d08.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...bb2b5dafe.jpeg

The password get side?

-- Chuck

stupid auto correct. The passenger side.

Creaking is most often ball joints. Likely a bad lower ball joint.

That suspension is pretty modified. It may serve you well to buy a used, complete subframe and just swap back to factory parts.

Those wheels/tires are pretty agressive and are the cause of your rubbing issues.

I assume you mean modified in a bad way (meaning not properly done)?

Nope, no way to tell whether it was properly done or improperly done.

But there's a ton of added complexity and liability from using all those adjustable, aftermarket parts. The quality isn't as good as the factory parts...and the adjustments wildly change all the intended geometry

Nice exhaust, though!

Frankly, the original car from the factory is pretty darn good. You add to that the proven, over time, superiority of original OEM parts from off market and it makes sense to return the car to OEM as much as possible.
Works better, lasts way longer.

Have fun!!

Question, did you clock the bushings to the new ride height when you adjusted back from ground scraper to reasonable?

Bushings have to be locked down at ride height, or they'll fight the shocks and springs, put you at different height than you dialed in, and eventually tear from the stress (big $$$$).

You also can't just go to a shop and say 'clock my bushings', they likely won't know what that means. Either diy or suspension specialist.

Basically, you don't tighten any bushing bolts unless that corner is at ride height. Upper CA bolts, lowers, lower shock mount, and at the rear, toe arms.

The exception is front compliance bushing. Since its bolt is vertical, its bushing doesn't flex around the boot concentrically.

nope but I kinda doubt that last people that did the work did this either. Should I just go back to factory and maybe add some koni yellow and drop it just a bit or just do all factory?