Replacing your convertible top with a Robbins Top
 

EDIT: Thanks to slackfaster for putting this in PDF for easy download. Here's his link: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/index.php...attach_id=2115

So, A few weeks ago, a local S2k owner stops by with a rather big problem:

Attachment 127272

Attachment 127273

For those that don't know, it's very bad to raise and lower the convertible top with a plastic rear window when it's cold outside (below 50F or so). The plastic gets very brittle and will crack right in half. That's pretty much what happened with this owner.

There were two options for him at this point, buy a Honda OEM replacement for $800 or so, or get a Robbins replacement top with a glass rear window for a lot less. I offered to do the install at a discounted price since this was going to help me out as well. The following is a complete walk through. Some tiny details are missing due to forgetting to take a picture every time I took something apart, but anybody that's fairly handy can handle this. I will say that while it is possible to do the install completely on your own, it is a HUGE lifesaver to have one extra person even if they have no mechanical skills at all.

Let's start by taking inventory of what tools you will need to complete the job:

Phillips screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
10mm, 12mm, &14mm sockets and ratchets with extension
10 and 14mm wrenches
Rivet gun
Small sideways ratcheting screwdriver (usually $10 at home depot)
Drill and bits
Razor/knife

The Robbins kit includes some rivets, silver buttons, new elastic straps and retrofit straps if you're doing an upgrade to a glass back. I recommend having extra 1/4" long 4mm ( 5/32") rivets handy.

You will not be able to use the silver button snaps that Robbins includes unless you have a snap setting tool. An alternate would be to use rivets and washers to do the job. Recently I stumbled upon these from mcmaster car though:

Part# 99024A327
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/3064/=1r8xeg

They work perfect for attaching the rain rail and are easy to install with a flathead. A pack of 25 will be more than enough.


Ok, now that you have all the tools we can start removing the old top. No need to be fancy here. Just grab a razor and slice it up.

Attachment 127274

While cutting behind the window, you'll notice the plastic guard behind the top. This is the cause for the small wear holes that are common on our cars. You can see the start of the wear hole on the second pic.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79...l/IMG_2695.jpg

Attachment 127275

Before putting the new top on, I cut two squares of material off the old top and put the between this plastic guard and the new top with adhesive. This can be done to existing tops as well and is highly recommended to prevent these wear marks from forming.

After the top is cut off (still no hardware removed), I unpacked the new Robbins top with glass window.

Attachment 127276

It comes with retrofit straps for the 00-01 frames to accepts a glass window and a bunch of rivets and some buttons that won't get used.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79...l/IMG_2691.jpg

Next, I remove the seats. 12mm bolts on the front and 14mm for the rear. Very simple.

Attachment 127277

Be careful when taking out the driver's seat as there is a grey harness that needs to be disconnected from the bottom. This is your seatbelt sensor. Also, if you have an OEM alarm, your alarm module will be on the underside of the driver's seat and will need to be disconnected as well.

Next, remove the center console. The console is held on completely with clips and should be taken off by prying the rear up with your fingers and moving forward slowly. Take off the shift knob first of course. When the console is unsnapped, disconnect the two harnesses for the emergency lights and top switch.

Attachment 127278

After the console is removed, take the roof switch off by removing the two screws and reconnect it to the harness. You'll need to work the roof while doing the install and the whole console will just get in the way.

Start removing the two vent panels under the roll hoops. This is done by unsnapping the cover on the two hooks and unscrewing them using either a phillips or 8mm socket. The panels then just unsnap out of their location.

Attachment 127279

Go ahead and remove the two screws at the base of the roll hoop trim while you're at this step. Make sure to keep inventory of all the screws. Most of them are identical. Pay attention to the ones that are smaller or different so you know where they go back later.

Remove the two door sill moldings. They snap off. It's easiest to start towards the front of the car and move backwards. They are held on with three white clips and interlock with the surrounding trim. Then, remove the rear door jamb trim. This is done by removing one phillips screw at the base and pulling the panel forward. The is one white clip towards the inside edge of the panel.

Attachment 127280

While you're there, go ahead and unbolt the seat belt bolt on the bottom. Remove the screw joining the roll hoop trim and side trim on either side. The tiny screw in the corner of the roll hoop can stay in place as the two halves of the roll hoop do not separate:

Attachment 127281

Remove the seat belt holder on the roll hoop. Take the black rubber plug off first and unbolt the assembly.

Attachment 127282

Remove the four screws at the top of the storage compartment and one on the inside of the lower compartment and the two at the bottom of the unit.

Attachment 127254

Remove the plastic plugs that hold the rear tray in and parts of the rear roll bar trim. These are removed by pressing the center inward and pulling the button out.

Attachment 127255

The rear tray can then be removed by prying the rear upwards using a flathead screwdriver.

Attachment 127256

Attachment 127257

Once the tray is removed, start removing the screws holding the surrounding trim and any other plastic plugs. Some have to be removed by unscrewing the center instead of pushing it in:

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y7...l/IMG_2714.jpg

Also, remove the two screws securing the center panel on the back of the console storage.

Attachment 127258

Then, remove the screws attaching the storage compartment to the storage door and housing.

Attachment 127259

Now you can remove the whole center storage section. You'll need to reach behind and unplug the harness for the trunk release and the cigarette lighter. The console should then just lift away

Start removing the roll hoops. This is done by removing the eight bolts on each one. Four bolts hold on each side of the hoop. THE ROLL HOOPS DO NOT SEPARATE IN HALF!!! YOU WILL BREAK THEM IF YOU FORCE THEM APART. There is also some debate on whether or not you can complete the installation without removing these. The left and right rain channel trim is below these hoops. You cannot install the top with those in place and you cannot remove those with the roll hoops in. Removing and reinstalling 8 bolts on each side is far less of a pain than breaking parts and installing the top with these in the way.

Attachment 127260

Attachment 127261

The roll hoops then just lift out. Watch out for any extra screws that you might have missed. Also, remove the seatbelt through the hole in the hoop housing.

Next, remove the rear top trim by removing the nuts that hold on the three metal trim plates. Remember the orientation of the pieces for reassembly as it's easy to get them put in upside down by mistake.

Attachment 127262

Remove the rubber water channel and place it on the side as you will reuse this.

Remove the trim pieces on the top of the roof. You might need to fold the top back halfway.

(IMG:http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79/cyclon36/topinstall/IMG_2716.jpg)

Attachment 127263

The rubber window trim will come out next. This just pulls off.

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y7...l/IMG_2718.jpg

The bottom piece is anchored on with a long plastic plug on the bottom side of the rubber piece (round grey thing in picture). Make sure to remove this first before removing the bottom trim piece. Be extra careful when removing this plug. Use needle nose pliers to slowly wedge it out as it's easy to break.

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y7...l/IMG_2720.jpg

Once the window trim is removed, unscrew the chrome screws and mounting plates.

Attachment 127264

Then, focus back on the bottom section of the window trim area where the long plug was removed. There will be a metal plate holding the corner of the top material down. Remove the one screw holding this in and remove the one screw below the plate (most likely covered in foam and hard to see).

Attachment 127265

Remember how the top is folded in this area as you'll have to duplicate the fold when installing the new top.

Start peeling away the remainder of the top material. Grind or drill out the rivet at the front of the top:

Attachment 127266

And any other rivets that might hold the trim on. Be careful not to lose the pieces in your car as they will rattle later.

Attachment 127267

Pull the tension cable through the top and remove it by unscrewing the fat screw at the base of the spring holding the cable.

(IMG:http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79/cyclon36/topinstall/IMG_2725.jpg)

There should now be no remnants of the old top on your car.

Now, go to the rubber water guard that was at the rear of the old top. Start drilling out all of the old rivets.

Attachment 127268

Be careful not to heat up the rivets too much as they'll melt through the rubber piece.

Then, take your hardware bag that came with the top (it would be a good idea to buy a few extra of the larger rivets. They are available at home depot or other hardware stores.

Attachment 127269

Start installing the rear of the new top into the original water guard and riveting it on using the smaller rivets. Make sure to only rivet through the holes that are available. Pay close attention as to what holes need a rivet, and what holes need to be left empty so you can attach it to the car. It's best if you use a pen to mark the attachment holes prior to drilling out the rivets.

Attachment 127270

I found that the larger rivets hold the two halves better so I went out and bought extra ones. Buy washers that fit them as well so the rivets don't pull through the rubber. Some of the original rivet holes will not be used because of the way the new top is made. Don't worry about how tight everything is as the rivets are not meant to be the strongest point.

Once the water guard is attached, put a blanket over the rear of your car to protect the paint.

Attachment 127271

***Note, the next few steps outline installing new front straps on the car. Robbins does not always include these in the top kits. However, you can easily make your own just by buying some elastic from a local fabric store or Wal-Mart***

Drill out the existing rivets on the top straps.

Attachment 127243

And remove the rivet remains by uncapping the end of the bar and blowing them out the other side.

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y7...l/IMG_2736.jpg

Rivet the new elastic straps to the original locations using the original metal brackets and the supplied rivets.

Then, mark holes for the retro fit straps per the instructions in the top box. The retrofit straps should be one half inch away from the elastic straps. The new Robbins tops are coming with all the straps already joined together which will save you some drilling and riveting.

****EDIT: For a cleaner install, rivet the retrofit straps to the back of the elastic straps using the metal plate to sandwich them all together. It will leave more room for the new top to install into the lock channels properly.*****

Attachment 127244

Drill the frame and attach the straps with the rivets as per the instructions provided. Make sure to attach the straps to the back of the bar. If the rivets or the straps are on the top surface, it will wear on the new top.

Attachment 127245

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y7...l/IMG_2739.jpg

Next comes the difficult part. Place the top upside down on the trunk ready for install.

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y7...l/IMG_2740.jpg

Flip it over onto the top frame and start pushing the rubber water guard onto its mounting pegs. They can be hard to push through in some areas and it helps to have someone hold the top off of you while you push the rubber guard into place.

Next, fold the top mechanism halfway back. Take the long straps and attach them to the mounting peg directly behind them in front of the rubber guard. While keeping the strap in place, replace the metal trim pieces onto the metal pegs. Place the nuts on right away to keep it from falling off, but don't tighten them just yet.

Attachment 127246

Once all the pieces are on, start tightening the nuts. Tighten the center one first and move outside from there.

Start folding the top over the rails. Begin by taking the two flaps towards the back of the top, velcro them together, put them over the rearmost bar and go under the second bar, and insert the plastic edge into metal trim strip. The bar rearmost bar should not be inside the two flaps.

Attachment 127247

Do the same thing with the second section as well for the third bar from the back.

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y7...l/IMG_2743.jpg

Next, take the tension cables removed from the old top. Hook the spring with the white loop on the new top. Pass the cable from top to bottom by pulling it through with the string.

Attach spring at top:
Attachment 127248

Pull from the bottom:
(IMG:http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79/cyclon36/topinstall/IMG_2744.jpg)

Once the tension cable is through the new top, pass the spring through the oval opening on the top frame:

Attachment 127249

And reattach it to with the large screw:

Attachment 127250

Take the lower corner that goes next to the window of the new top and insert a screw through the bottom side. This was the screw covered in foam on the old top. There should be a hold in the plastic backing for the screw to pass through, but not in the material part.

Attachment 127251

Take the metal clip and reinstall it just as you removed it. This is one of the most difficult parts of the install b/c of the area available to work in. It really helps to have a ratcheting screwdriver that's really, really short. A screwdriver attachment for a ratchet might even be better.

There is also a lot of pulling and stretching going to get the top to fit right and pull the corner into place.

Next, rivet the top of the tension cable back into place using one of the large rivets. You might need to drill the hole a bit to get it to fit.

Attachment 127252

It's all downhill from here. Start putting the trim pieces back just as you took them off. Don't worry about closing the top just yet. Pay attention to the rubber molding pieces as they can be hard to snap back in and can fall out if you're not careful. Also, remove the two inner tonneau cover metal clips on the back of the roll hoop. DO NOT FORGET TO DO THIS WITH THE GLASS TOP CONVERSION. The inner two attachment points interfere with the glass top folding all the way down. Install the interior just as you removed it. Everything will be more of a pain to put back in now b/c the top will be there covering up the back. The rear tray might need to be fed in through the back. You can do this by removing the covers over the spare tire.

After all the trim is back into place and you have your car back together, fold the top up to close it. Since it is new, it will not close all the way. It is best if it's a warm day or if the top is warm. If it's cool, run your heat on for a while to warm up the new top. Once it's warm, do your best to push the top down and latch it into place (this usually requires two people). Once latched, leave your top latched for about a week to let it stretch into place. If you can park it outside on a sunny day to warm it up, it is preferred.

And you're done!

Attachment 127253

Hopefully everything went smoothly and it didn't take too long. Without any problems, the install takes approximately 6-8 hours. When folding the top down the first few times, you might have to guide the glass down with your hands to get it to slide correctly and to avoid the top folding incorrectly. Do not just fold the top down right away without paying attention. Monitor the top as it goes down slowly the first few times to ensure the bars are folding correctly and they don't break the glass. Also, remember the glass back does not fold deep into the rear tray area like the plastic back. The front windshield bar should sit either level with the trunk or just below.

wow, amazing write up

great write up!

Fantastic write-up, Cyclon!!! Nice work.

I sure as hell wouldn't try that by myself, though. ;)

[I'm going to link to this in the FAQ thread]

:thumbup:

Nice job...and timely...I think there are about 5 Florida guys about ready for new tops.

Definitely needs a link in the DIY sticky in UTH.

negcamber, FYI I put a link in the S2K Talk FAQ, but feel free to PM the mods in UTH.

(I just realized there were way too many acronyms in that sentence :D )

Great write up, my brain hurts after reading all that :crazy:

This job would take me about 2 weeks not 6-8 hours

great write up, now I know not to attempt this myself...
anyone know a good installer for this job in ny metro/long island?

holy crap thank god my top got slashed and insurance paid for the top/labor. i only had to pay 70 bucks extra to get the robbins top and i must say it is a very nice top and such a great upgrade from the plastic window...

i knew the install was time consuming, but geeeeez that makes me so much happier that i didnt have to do it :)

wow!!!

makes me feel like an incompetent just reading this-
thats a lot of work-
and a really great job of detailing the process...

you should open up a top replacement shop!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79...l/IMG_2694.jpg


Is that a bearded Joe I see? :LOL: Nice write up.

Thank you sir, This will help me and my buddy out a lot when it comes time to doing my top !!!!!

:thumbup: :thumbup:

Looks like some work though !!

While the Robbins top does seem like a nice replacement, IMO I find that it's a SLIGHT downgrade from an OEM '02+ top, if indeed the glass top + defroster looks exactly like that, just with added defroster lines. The length from top to bottom of the glass is actually a bit smaller than OEM, and it doesn't have that plastic piece surrounding the glass.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...age&img=376233http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/IMG_0030.jpg

What you say is true, but the money that you save is worth it to me. Not to mention I've had the plastic window for all these years and it didn't come with a defroster. Why would I need one now ?? :D

saving money gets a :thumbup: from me :LOL:

Actually, that's not completely accurate. The pictures are misleading. The robbins top glass goes below the material along the bottom edge where as the OEM glass goes over the top of the material making it appear to have a larger visible area. Both have about an inch of material that the glass needs to attach to on the bottom, the difference is on which side they are attached.

As for the 02+ replacement tops, I have not seen one from Robbins so I cannot comment on how the one with the defroster looks like.

Thats one badass DIY. Terrific job

What is the approximate cost of a Robbins V. an OEM top?

Is the Robbins top still made of the same grade & thickness vinyl material?

Prices are listed in the GB : https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=437842

2000-2001 plastic rear window replacement tops: $495
2000-2001 glass rear window conversion tops (no defroster): $595
2002+ glass rear window replacement tops (with defroster): $695

OEM cost is approximately $850 or so.

The material is an exact match for OEM. Same thickness and all.

I'd get one if I can pay someone to do the install. Does anyone in the Bay area do this type of install (other than the OEMs)?

nice write up Joe. make it a sticky!

Is this thing stickyed already ?? It was hard for me to find this post :p

Wow, my dealer replaced my top under warranty because of a minor fit problem along the window. I am glad I did not know how much disassembly this job takes, or I probably would not have let the dealer do it. In the end they did an A+ job.

Joe did an awesome job helping me install my top and he helped me wash my car afterwards to boot! What a guy!

As for the top, I wouldn't hesitate recommending it to anyone. If you want the defroster, its only $100 more, but for those of you who live in the south, its not really necessary. The top looks and feels like OEM and going from the plastic rear window to the glass one has made a world of difference!

this is the best writeup on the site for a robbins top. I used a lot of the info here to complete my top yesterday... took me about 11 hours...

Glad to hear it helped out. :thumbup:

I think a lot of people are intimidated by all the steps and get scared away from doing the top install themselves. It's about as easy as a clutch job though, only you don't have to fish around for a starter bolt :D

wow!
extremely impressive write up. makes me hope that i NEVER have to attempt this in my driveway - though I'll be pullin this thread up if/when that time ever comes along

My topped shipped out today and I will be using this Walkthrough for sure when mine comes in. By the way the same thing happened to me in the cold! Only my friend did it!

AGGHHHH you exceeded the bandwidth on you photobucket. Is there anyway to post those pics back up I needed them for my install?

broken pics.

Fixed. Thanks for looking.

Hmmm, did you buy your top from me? :LOL:

Cyclon36

I have an '00 w/ only 15kmi. The top and rear window (athough plastic) are mint. I hate to swap it out...however I really want a tintied rear window. I know this is a long shot but does Robbins make a replacement "tintied" rear plastic window for the OEM top? I know there is no way to fit the glass in a pre 01 top.

If not, I may decide to swap tops. Any idea if my current top has any value? Might put it up on the marketplace forum.

thnks :D

Actually, a top replacement isn't needed if only the rear window is damaged. That would make the first option "buy a Honda OEM replacement rear window for $200 or so".

Not to bad mouth, but you're making it sound like an entirely new top is the only solution for that situation.

Thanks for the write up Joe. It will help many people in the future.

[QUOTE=JDM4Life,Feb 20 2007, 11:57 PM] Cyclon36

I have an '00 w/

You are correct. I actually have a link to the rear window replacement on my how-to list. I don't think I've sold a plastic rear window top yet though as everyone has opted for the glass window upgrade.

Good write up.

I installed my replacement top in January with a friend of mine. We however did not remove the interior at all to perform the installation.

The process took my friend and I five hours (Could have been less) but this was his third or so installation.

BTW, I have the Robbins Canvas Top with defroster (Don't know why).

This is a good writeup that will help many to perform this installation.

kuul, thanks!

Joe,

This is the best write-up I have seen for this job. I am replacing mine this spring and i'm not sure if I'm gonna let my upholstery guy do it or not. I tend to tackle any job on my own, this one does intimidate me a lil bit.

I definately feel more confident with this write-up and am sold on the Robbins top.

Thanks!!! :beer:

<--Subscribe!

I know this sounds gay but I love you! Thank You for posting the pics back up as my install will start in the early morning! God Bless You!

Wow you def. did a lot more than I...

I didnt find it necessary to take the center console and roll hoops out but w/e...

AWESOME WRITE UP !

I just hope it wouldve been here when I had to change my top...grrr

I guess technically you don't have to. The added space to work in is definitely worth the extra few minutes of taking them out though.

I just slid into the trunk... Not too difficult if you aren't too big. :D

awesome right up

great DIY, I had this EXACT same thing happen to my top, although I'm probably going to get a hard top

awesomeness!!

This is an amazingly in-depth write up. Thanks for all your effort.

Fixed!

:iagree:

So i'm now in week 2 of my Robbins Top Install. :)

1: The Robbins instructions SUCK. They only detail the changes for the frame!
2: How the hell do you work those little cone-and-button lookin' things?
3: using regular rivets on the rainrail is a recipe for disaster, there's no room to either side for the stub to stick out!
4: My tab at the bottom of the frame behind the window (the foam covered one that only had a hole through half) doesn't seem to line up, it's got a little ear at the top of the plastic tab, is it permissible to trim this, or is there a reason for it?

Sorry to hear that you're having a tough time dude.

The little button and cone things are extras. Just toss them.

You have to use the rivets with washers as mentioned in the install. Also, don't forget to pull on the rivet gun until the tab breaks off. They should be flush when they're installed.

The plastic tab is the hardest part to do. You have to really pay attention how the OEM. one is installed. You'll have to poke holes throught the new canvas once things are aligned and use a tiny stubby screwdriver to install it.

wow, excellent instructions! these annihilate the previous write up for a (non-Robbins) glass window top on a 00-01

someone get a mod to make this a STICKY!!

great write up, man

Extras? Yeah, how about they not give me "extras", and they give me backing washers instead for the rivets...and enough rivets in the first place?!

Nah, i know one side of the rivets end up flush... but the sleeved side that mushrooms tended to leave a ~3/8ths inch mushroomed portion that didn't have anywhere to sit on the rainrail.

I've got the idea on the only way the tab can fit (the dog ear pointing "up" into the rail) but why didn't they just put that hole through both halves in the first place? Now that it's in place, I can't get my fabric punch (that I had to use on the elastic that they couldn't be bothered to punch!) down in that hole.

I've got the top all the way down and am working vertically with plenty of space. Should I have the top oriented differently?

Next time you call Robbins to order more tops, can you please, please tell them to start bundling a printout of your how-to? It blows their install document away. :)

I find it easiest to work with the top halfway up.

Yeah, the lack of install instruction is what discouraged a lot of people to buying the tops. That's the main reason why I did the write up.

I'm actually out of the top game though. I've had too many problems with delayed shipments and price matching with competitors that I figured I'd just better back out. It's mostly b/c I have to go through a middle man to get the tops as Robbins won't deal directly with me unless I carry their entire line.

That's dissapointing. You were a good seller to work with.

I've done 2 top installs on my old Miata, i'm not unfamiliar with a lot of the processes, but Robbins didn't/doesn't go out of their way to offer tips/tricks/tools lists, etc. Your howto was really useful.

I'll try moving the top halfway up. :)

Robbins doesn't do this because they want their tops installed by professionals so as to avoid consumers installing their tops improperly and then going back to them because their tops fit incorrectly.

Okay, this is driving me nuts.

I've now riveted and installed the rail on the back edge of the window to try and hold the top in place while i worked on the screws! Still nothing lines up!

Any tips for me here? I'm trying to line up the plastic tabbed piece w/o putting a hole in the outer since i've no way to line it up. Is it permissible to poke a hole in the outer after all?

Can you post pictures?

If you can post a pic it would definitely help.

When it comes to poking holes, use your best judgement as to if it will be exposed to water or not.

OKy. Hole poked. Screw in. Now I can't get that bottom trim metal piece that the christmas tree in the rubber trim goes through to line up for the life of me. After 5h of this, and only getting one screw in, i'm getting ANGRY. This can't be healthy.

Take a coke break and chill for a sec or two, then go back to it. You might have to expand the hole that the "christmas tree" as you call it goes into.

Oh, and as a pre-advisement, when you close the top for the first time, it will fall about 6-10 inches short b/c it's new. You'll have to run the heat for a while to get it loosened up and possibly need a buddy to help you push the roof down at the front. Don't open it for a few days after that to help it settle in place.

-Joe

This was a great write up. I used this after getting my top from Cyclone and it took me about 12 hours on total spread over two days. The instructions were a huge help considering what was provided by Robbins was a few pages long.

I had a question I am doing this right now to my top and the only instructions I got from robbins is the frame prep. instructions. Am I suppose to get something else because it says on the end install the rest as you would install an 02 and up s2k top. I was wondering because I am almost finished and I have to fit the two top corners towards the front by the latches. They are not fitted so I can just slip the frame corner onto the cloth. What am I suppose to do to this am I suppose to stich it or something? Or I saw the original top that it kinda looks like the melted part of the top to adhere togther, is this right? How did everyone do theirs?

The tops do not come with install instructions. For the robbins top, they do not have the little fitted pockets for the front of the frame like the OEM top does. Instead, just fold the front edge of the Robbins top over the front of the frame and attach the metal bracket that goes the length of the front. That should secure it enough to hold.

for anyone who has had a Robbins top installed:

have you noticed having MAD wind noise at about 80+ mph with the top up?

it's been over a year since I've had the new top installed, and it's great otherwise, but my brother's s2k with the original plastic window top isn't as loud :confused:

amazing write up

that was a great writ up outstanding job man

Have your tried tightening up the latches or perhaps your strikers might be worn out. That's a common problem.

On my hardtop, I had excessive wind noise over 100mph but it was just a latch adjustment problem.

Hey guys.

I'm only in the beginning steps of my robbins' top install and im already stuck! If you guys could help me out, that would be great.

I'm in the process of removing the water channel but I can't seem to reach the last screw on both sides. Is there any trick of doing so? If its this hard taking it out with the top already cut up, I cant even imagine how its going to be replacing it with the top installed!

Attachment 126304

as you can see all the other screws are out, making it real loose cept for the ends.

Attachment 126305

The only part thats still attached.

Attachment 126306

The screw I can't get out. I can reach it but not directly enough to unscrew. I'm even using the short screw driver. Any suggestions?

Btw, Thank you cyclon for this write up. :thumbup:

Very nice write up....... thanks for the help!!

I don't think that's a screw, just one of those plastic clips with the screw center part. If that's the case, just break the darn thing. It's not necessary really and the top will fit perfect without it. They're a pita to get out as they always spin around on you while you're trying to back out the center. You could probably slowly pull on the water channel until it pops free. That won't damage the channel.

I used the write-up several weeks ago and it was a big help. Thanks. I had a hard time replacing the rear tray after the top was in, but I got it in good enough so that the rattles are limited. :corner: ing some pics:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...1bd993846f.png

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...1bd993846f.png

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...1bd993846f.png

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...1bd993846f.png

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...1bd993846f.png

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...1bd993846f.png

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...1bd993846f.png

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...1bd993846f.png

yeah the rear tray is a bitch to get in once the new top is on...