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After a thousand bumps and bruises and million curse words, I was finally able to latch this bitch. To say that I'm ecstatic would be an understatement, as I was right at by breaking point with this project.
Some random thoughts for the many that need to complete this task (in no particular order):
* In hindsight, I really wish that I would have just paid a professional to do this job. It feels like a great accomplishment, but holy shit - that was pure and utter he'll... ESPECIALLY the part when you have to attach the rain rail with new top to the frame!
* For the dudes who said "I did this in 6-8 hours" - You're either an effing S2K ninja, or a filthy liar! Hahaha... I will have close to 24 hours of actual work into this project. I tackled it solo with no experience in this sort of thing.
* For the love of Lemmy, TAKE THE ROLL HOOPS OUT!!! You will be glad you did.
* Have patience when it comes time to latch the top. This was one of the most infuriating things because I was soooooooo close, yet so far away. This last step took me three days and 12 beers.
* Each time I took off nuts/bolts/pieces, I put them in a Zip-Lock bag and labeled the stuff. If you are pounding it out in one setting it might not be a big deal, but I have very little free time and had to tackle this over about 3 weeks.
* Did I mention you should pay a professional to do this?
* Don't waste $1,400- on an OEM top - buy a Robbins or EZ-On if you're on a budget.
* Winter time in the north is a crappy time to do this.
Thanks for the moral support, I'm sure I will chime in more here. I've been an MR2 guy for most of my life, but fell in love with the S2K from the moment I saw it unveiled at the Detroit Auto Show in 2000. But after this top install, I want to kill it with
@J-44 - Glad you attained success! That's all great advice - I heeded your first piece of advice and had Jeremy do mine - and he is in deed a ninja. He was done, start to finish in under 4 hours, but he knew everything by heart - what to disassemble in what order, and he just put all the nuts, bolts and screws in the driver's footwell - in some order he knew to put them back in order. It was amazing to see him do it - if anyone is looking for a top install in the NJ/PA/DE area, I can't recommend him enough.
Congrats on tackling the beast, J-44. I watch the how-tos and there was no way I was going to attempt it. Nice work on a successful finish!
@J-44 - Glad you attained success! That's all great advice - I heeded your first piece of advice and had Jeremy do mine - and he is in deed a ninja. He was done, start to finish in under 4 hours, but he knew everything by heart - what to disassemble in what order, and he just put all the nuts, bolts and screws in the driver's footwell - in some order he knew to put them back in order. It was amazing to see him do it - if anyone is looking for a top install in the NJ/PA/DE area, I can't recommend him enough.
Congrats on tackling the beast, J-44. I watch the how-tos and there was no way I was going to attempt it. Nice work on a successful finish!
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.
Now for one last question: it's winter here in Ohio, and I just finished this install - how long do you think I should let it stretch closed before I want to attempt to open it again? I'm obviously not going to be driving around with the top down, but I would like to be able to truly test the top and see how it does with retraction and all.
Being as cold as it is, it's going to be tough to stretch it properly before it gets easier to open. However, if you are storing it, store it with the top closed but not latched - so in that case, it will just get stretched in the spring. Unless you are storing it outside, obviously. As for opening it, if it's a fabric top, it's more forgiving than the vinyl top. Do you have a place where it can warm up before you attempt to open it? Like a garage? If not, I would not open it until you get a warmer day, particularly if it's a vinyl top. If you have a garage, just get it up over 50 deg and let it sit for an hour before you open it - then you should be good to go.
Leave it latched, and after driving put a blanket over it and heater on high and running for a bit get it hot, your heater will get it up to 90 or so inside, S2000 has great heater. Do that a few times over a few weeks or wait for spring.
if you have an in with a paint shop putting it in a paint booth set on bake/ paint cure would also get it hot.
Not sure if this is the time or place - but my $0.02 is if you can afford it go with an OEM replacement. Fitment is obviously perfect and no other brand will match that. They aren't THAT expensive either and will save you a lot of frustration. I had LHT replace mine when it was in having a SC kit installed and I couldn't be happier. They also only use OEM and won't install an aftermarket brand based on fitment issues.
I'm getting close to buttoning everything back up, but I wanted to make sure this was correct before continuing. Robbins says to go over the 4th bow, and them wrap around the front of the 3rd bow and clamp it in the retainer. Does the 4th bow just stay exposed with in my photo? Any wrapping around the bow to make sure that retainer clamp doesn't wear on the new top?
I have a Robbins top (had it installed) and mine does not look like that. Yours doesn't look right. I think that piece is supposed to wrap around and under the rear one, then forward and around/up over the front one. The elastic scrim is covering both the 4th and 3rd in mine. It's not exposed.
I think in the picture with the 4th bar, it's supposed to be connected and then wrap under and around to the 3rd, not just from the top of the 4th straight to the 3rd. (does this make any sense?) I think it's attached at the 4th, then wraps around it and up to the 3rd.
Last edited by datadr; 03-04-2019 at 05:28 PM.
Reason: Adding more...
I have a Robbins top (had it installed) and mine does not look like that. Yours doesn't look right. I think that piece is supposed to wrap around and under the rear one, then forward and around/up over the front one. The elastic scrim is covering both the 4th and 3rd in mine. It's not exposed.
I think in the picture with the 4th bar, it's supposed to be connected and then wrap under and around to the 3rd, not just from the top of the 4th straight to the 3rd. (does this make any sense?) I think it's attached at the 4th, then wraps around it and up to the 3rd.
12-29-2018, 12:34 PM
Success!!!!
