So, drove an AP2 for the first time
06-13-2018, 11:25 AM
#13
The ideal S would combine the best of both, ap1 and ap2. Trying to modify to add the best of the other is probably easier if starting with ap2. It has all the updates and improvements to reliability, etc. Then you can:
Replace flywheel with something lightweight when you replace clutch. Remove cdv at same time.
Upgrade to CR steering rack, for ratios near identical to ap1.
Replace softer suspension with coilovers or something like swift or eibach springs.
If its an '06+, you can use flashpro, and a hfc, to lower wot vtec engagement rpm, so you can eliminate that narrower vtec rpm range. You can also safely boost redline a bit. It will still be less than ap1 9k redline, so ap1 still holds that over ap2. This can also eliminate the leanness that causes dbw exhaust valves to get tight so much faster. The dbw is a double edged sword though, as some dislike the loss of direct cable control feel.
Do these things, and your ap2 will be injected with some ap1 DNA. In many ways taking the ap1 benefits and making them more (makes me think of those Geico commercials).
Even after doing all this, the ap1 will still have some advantages. But you'd be a lot closer to ideal. But best of all, since its your car, you can tailor these and other mods to make it closer to YOUR ideal S.
Replace flywheel with something lightweight when you replace clutch. Remove cdv at same time.
Upgrade to CR steering rack, for ratios near identical to ap1.
Replace softer suspension with coilovers or something like swift or eibach springs.
If its an '06+, you can use flashpro, and a hfc, to lower wot vtec engagement rpm, so you can eliminate that narrower vtec rpm range. You can also safely boost redline a bit. It will still be less than ap1 9k redline, so ap1 still holds that over ap2. This can also eliminate the leanness that causes dbw exhaust valves to get tight so much faster. The dbw is a double edged sword though, as some dislike the loss of direct cable control feel.
Do these things, and your ap2 will be injected with some ap1 DNA. In many ways taking the ap1 benefits and making them more (makes me think of those Geico commercials).
Even after doing all this, the ap1 will still have some advantages. But you'd be a lot closer to ideal. But best of all, since its your car, you can tailor these and other mods to make it closer to YOUR ideal S.
06-13-2018, 11:51 AM
#15
I put AP1 wheels/tires and flywheel on my '05 AP2 and I'm surprised how much I like it. Ride quality is obviously much better, the lower rotational weight makes acceleration more responsive, and the narrower rear tires makes it much easier to break traction. Overall grip is probably down, there's more body lean and the steering is a bit slower, but mine's a road car, not a racer. It reminds me of the NC and ND Miatas I test drove, actually ...
I also weighed the AP2v1 and AP1 wheels and tires during the swap:
Front wheel/tire: 39 -> 35.4 lbs
Rear wheel/tire: 42.5 -> 37 lbs
I also weighed the AP2v1 and AP1 wheels and tires during the swap:
Front wheel/tire: 39 -> 35.4 lbs
Rear wheel/tire: 42.5 -> 37 lbs
06-13-2018, 01:28 PM
#16
02 would be identical to an 03 other then in mid 02 when the improved banjo bolt/piston cooling was done - check the serial number) The trans are all the same syncros from 00-03. Update was in 04.
06-13-2018, 02:03 PM
#17
Hmm, you're 100% certain the gears are exactly the same between the 01 and the 03?
06-13-2018, 09:51 PM
#20
shrykhar, your AP2 to AP1 wheel swap brings to mind this old video. In this case both the AP1 and the AP2 are using the F20C engine. While the swap results in a downgrade in terms of pure performance handling as you've stated, these guys look like they were having a lot of fun after performing that same swap. It appeared that there were no problems with drifting the car anyway.
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shrykhar (06-14-2018)