Toda Valve springs on Stock Cams
#12
I'm in the "waste of money" camp. You haven't really articulated an improvement or problem you're trying to solve. You're trying some pre-emptive thing without any evidence it's better than the stock honda parts.
Here's a question though, are the AP2 retainers better than AP1 and do they weight more than the AP1 ones? I'd think upgrading to better AP2 retainers as long as they weren't heavier might be some decent insurance.
Here's a question though, are the AP2 retainers better than AP1 and do they weight more than the AP1 ones? I'd think upgrading to better AP2 retainers as long as they weren't heavier might be some decent insurance.
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Beach, CA
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's really dumb if you aren't replacing your retainers. It's pretty much suicide. The excessive spring rate will eat up the weak OEM retainers so fast you'll drop a valve in no time.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Toronto
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have tracked the car in st.eustache autodrome a few times. Usually im out on the local tracks (i.e Mosport, Dunville, Shannonville) with my EF civic (purple with stickers galore on it... car 139 if you want to pay me a visit when you see me).. i have never been to a speedstar event.. usually through Kensia, Hada ,Dexter, BARC, or simply practice days before Touring GT series races. I might hit this next speedstar event though.
#17
The best thing's to leave it alone until you have some problem you need to solve. Slapping parts on there that may or may not be better's not the answer I don't think.
You want to take the head apart on a perfectly running engine but, don't really know why or what you're trying to improve? What's your goal? Why are you changing the parts? What problem are you trying to solve?
You're not going to increase the redline with any of these changes. Not without ECU mods.
As for TI, everything I've read suggests they need to be changed out every 20K miles. There's nothing really wrong with the stock ones.
You want to take the head apart on a perfectly running engine but, don't really know why or what you're trying to improve? What's your goal? Why are you changing the parts? What problem are you trying to solve?
You're not going to increase the redline with any of these changes. Not without ECU mods.
As for TI, everything I've read suggests they need to be changed out every 20K miles. There's nothing really wrong with the stock ones.
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Beach, CA
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, I am saying that upgrading the springs with a higher seat pressure and leaving the retainers alone is a very bad idea. You should either replace both or do nothing at all.
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Los Cerritos Mall
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
valve springs alone with out any other mods = waste of hard earnd cash.
Like others has stated if you do the springs replace your retainers, your dealing with stronger springs with higher tension. The OE retainers are designed for a certain amount of tension.
But if your not doing cams, or a PNP head job whats the point of dumping in that much cash for valve springs?
Like others has stated if you do the springs replace your retainers, your dealing with stronger springs with higher tension. The OE retainers are designed for a certain amount of tension.
But if your not doing cams, or a PNP head job whats the point of dumping in that much cash for valve springs?
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Los Cerritos Mall
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by kane.s2k,Aug 29 2006, 06:16 AM
No, I am saying that upgrading the springs with a higher seat pressure and leaving the retainers alone is a very bad idea. You should either replace both or do nothing at all.
it's like changing your oil but not your oil filter??? why bother??