When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I totally regret installing PLX sensor modules and multigauges. After 6 years with the system, I'm on my sixth multigauge (PLX DM-6).
This spring, I'm going to pull the Temperature Module (water & oil) and the Pressure Module (oil & fuel) to leave only Air Fuel Ratio and Boost/Vac modules for gauge readout.
If there is something I have learned in my 15 years of being able to drive is to research, research, and the research again before I pull the trigger on parts or modifications. I've cerainly learned the hard way.
None. Super happy with every mod part I've added. Not quite as happy with the alignment situation, but it's less of a not liking the specs issue and more frustration that shops can't seem to set it at the specs I've requested.
Off topic, but are your compliance bushing seized? That could be the reason why they can't align it properly.
If there is something I have learned in my 15 years of being able to drive is to research, research, and the research again before I pull the trigger on parts or modifications. I’ve cerainly learned the hard way.
Off topic, but are your compliance bushing seized? That could be the reason why they can't align it properly.
hmm .. Have never considered something could be seized. Symptom is that it has a tendency to go right, but I wouldn't go so far as to call it a pull most of the time. Started after I got it aligned for the first time several years into owning it. Figured something was coming loose or something is bent and I don't know it. Car appears to have had a prior front end repair, but could find no record of one.
Not sure which one the compliance bushing is. I always look at and wiggle my bushings when I have the wheels off and generally check stuff as I work on it. All of the bushings look great, visually. I found a post that shows one at a joint with an alignment setting dial indicator plate. My bushings in that spot look fine, but I haven't tried wedging on them.
I'll look into this possibility and start a new thread if I have no luck resolving it soon so as not to hijack this thread any further. Thanks for the info!
Search Compliance Bushing. Its on the front, lower control arm, and its the rearmost lower bushing.
The bushing pivot is horizontal, but the bushing bolt is vertical, to allow for cammed, oblong rotation as part of an alignment.
Durimg an alignment, the exact position of the lower arm is adjusted by loosening this bolt, and adjusting its rotation (and hence its position due to the cammed, oblong rotation), then retightening.
The problem is this metal bolt must rotate within the metal collar sleeve of the inner bushing, and Honda never lubed this bolt from the factory. So its rusts and badly seizes to the inner sleeve. Once that happens, shops can't align the front at all. All they can do is set the toe in (since thats a different adjustment, done by changing length of steering tie rods).
The fix is to replace the bushing bolt, and the cammed washers (washer on nut side, washer sleeve on bolt side).
Only, you can't the bolt out, since its so badly seized. No amount of hammering will dislodge it. You have to cut it out. Which means cutting both ends, right below the bolt head, and on threaded side as well. Its difficult, time consuming, awkward. And the whole time you have to try and minimize damage to the control arm frame mounts, as that is part of the frame.
You would also need to replace the compliance bushings themselves, as they get hacked up in the process, not to mention the bolt shaft is still stick in there! You have to press these out. Which means removing the whole arm to take it to a shop with a press (though I documented a process to cheaply fabricate a simple tool, and using a parts store rented ball joint press, to press out old bushing, and new one in, while arm is still in place on the car. You can just search for that thread).
Then you of course lube the heck outta the new parts, to avoid future problem. Since its such a common problem, many have preemptively removed these part to lube them if they aren't already seized. Cars in drier climates lasted way longer before this issue would occur.
You'd lnow if this was your issue if wvery alignment printout shows virtually the exact same before and after settimgs in the front, for everything except toe. What was red before is still red after.
You do always ask for the alignment printout, right?
I've done a fair number of mods and, like others, research the heck out of them before pulling the trigger so can't say I regret any. The closest might be choosing 11k/11k springs for the Ohlins coilovers. On the track they are fabulous and I love them. On the street, even with the struts set soft, they are on the edge of what I'd consider reasonable for a weekend drive with my wife. If I didn't track it as much as I do, I'd regret not going a little softer on the springs.
Here are a few mods i have done that i think are junk mods espiceally for a street car. For a track car maybe some of these mods would be fine but not for a street car.
all power mods that dont include forced induction. They all dont make an enough of a difference to matter and are a waste of time and money. This include intakes/exhausts/test pipes. If your doing it for sounds then thats fine. But if you expect to have a faster car then your wasting your money.
I had tein flex coilovers which i hated. Way to stiff for a street car. If you drive your car on the street you need something soft. like bilsteen pss or koni and shelf ground controls or stock suspension. i currently have koni and ground control and i love them. Just as comfortable than stock.
AEM digital boost gauge sucks. You need analog gauges for things that move fast like boost. You cant really see anything on the aem digital boost gauge. The aem digital gauges are great for things like water them/oil temp. I replaced mine with a defi red racer boost gauge and its 10x more clear and better.
Hasport engine mount are junk. Even in the softest compound they make the car vibrate like crazy and worst of all they make the inside cabin super loud. It sounds like as if your sitting inside the engine bay. The noise in the cabin is worse then the loudest exhaust you can get. definitely not street car friendly. I replaced these mounts with stock after about a month because i hated them so much.
Any single disc puck style clutch. like the act 6 puck or the competition stage 4 all suck for a street car because it will kill the drivability of the car. These clutches are cheep and hold a lot of power but they will make you hate your car if you have a street car that you have to drive in bumper to bumper traffic. If you like to have good drivability there sre only 3 choices. stock clutch for under 330whp. act hdss or act pressure plate with oem disc for up to 500whp and sos carbon on carbon twin disc for over 500whp. I personally love my sos carbon twin disc. Drives as good as stock with a light pedel and it will hold any amount of power.
A PO added the DIY hood vents and I am still working on undoing this mod. Since taking this picture, I've replaced the hood but have found that under-hood plastics have suffered from UV damage. The airbox had faded and the brake reservoir has the beginning of some small surface cracks. So, next up is replacing the brake MC since it appears that you can't buy the reservoir separately. The hood vents are definitely my least favorite mod.
02-21-2018, 06:28 PM
