Is it only the exhaust valves that typically need to be adjusted?

No. Adjust them all.

Its typically just the exhaust that get tight, and risk burning a valve. While the intakes typically get loose.

But like Billman said, you 'adjust' them all. Meaning you measure them and adjust as needed. Its possible some of them won't actually need to be changed to be in spec, but you won't know unless you perform the 'adjustment process'.

So basically you do them all.

wish u could come to NC, my biggest fear is not knowing how much drag i should have on the feeler gauge.

I come there every April :) Sign up for the Dragon and we will do your valves together.

I did not see anything on the tube seals in the book or Robbins (other than inspecting or replacing if needed) DIY that had you pushing the seals back. I did see that for the rubber washers with the metal tops on the cover bolts. I did make sure they were seated properly.

I just spread a little extra clean motor oil on the tube seals before installation. Do I need to reopen and check those tube seals? I just pulled the cover straight up and off and then back down when done. (Several days went by)

With the cover upside down on the work bench, the 4 tube seals should look like this \/ \/ \/ \/

When you pull the cover, some of them get stuck to the tube, and you will get this \/ \/ /\ /\

The last two have been pulled in the wrong direction. Just push them back down with your finger.

If you don't, you can cut the lip on the tube seal.

You can likely check yours just by pulling the coil packs and inspect them with a bright light. You can see the seal edge around the tube.

I've pulled over 1000 covers, and the chances of the seals inverting is 95%

Thanks for the reply. I get home from my trip Monday; I will check again. I do remember looking closely at the seals after install to see if I somehow might have damaged them and they looked ok. They reminded me of axle bearing seals. Since they all looked the same (as I recall) I wonder if the seals had been pulled in the opposite direction, they might have reversed themselves upon re-install.

Not having the correct amount of drag on the gauge shouldn't cause them to be set improperly, as it should be the "go or no-go" method that determines proper settings. The amount of drag is more of a fine tuning thing and it is something that you acquire after doing it a couple of times. In your case I'd say having some drag is probably fine, better than no drag, if there is too much drag you will know it quite easily as the gauge won't move very easily and the movement gets very rough. Having no drag is also easy to determine as the gauge slides around without any friction. So go for the middle setting between no drag and too much drag. hth.

I just checked a 2009 with ~30,000 miles. All valves were perfect - I've known the car since new, valves never been set before.

I've got another 2009 to check, I'll post the results.


Jim :drive: