2000 ap1 Clutch Master / Slave Cylinder
05-23-2017, 06:14 PM
#1
2000 ap1 Clutch Master / Slave Cylinder
Hey everyone, Im having a similar problem!
I bought a 2000 S2k and the guy selling it to me let me know the Clutch Master had a leak and had to be replaced he gave me the part but, I kept refilling the cylinder to drive to school and back (less than 3 miles) and one day driving back I would give it gas but it would no longer move. Previous days as long as I kept the rpms low the car would move no problem UNTIL it wouldnt go any longer
I replaced the CMC, bled the line but still nothing. Car wont grab on to the clutch... The clutch was replaced 20k miles ago and when driving it, it never grinded or smelled of burnt clutch so i doubt its that...
My last guess is that its the slave that needs to be replaced
please some one help! I just ordered the slave
I bought a 2000 S2k and the guy selling it to me let me know the Clutch Master had a leak and had to be replaced he gave me the part but, I kept refilling the cylinder to drive to school and back (less than 3 miles) and one day driving back I would give it gas but it would no longer move. Previous days as long as I kept the rpms low the car would move no problem UNTIL it wouldnt go any longer
I replaced the CMC, bled the line but still nothing. Car wont grab on to the clutch... The clutch was replaced 20k miles ago and when driving it, it never grinded or smelled of burnt clutch so i doubt its that...
My last guess is that its the slave that needs to be replaced
please some one help! I just ordered the slave
05-23-2017, 08:03 PM
#2
Go ahead and replace the slave (& rubber line cause it's cheap.. SS? =D ), gravity bleed, and adjust your pedal free-play to none. Meaning, the only free-play should be in the CMC itself. If you still don't have a clutch, assuming you did the work properly, it's probably your clutch. If all new clutch system bits outside of the bellhousing and it's still giving problems, then it's gotta be inside.
I might be wrong, but I'm thinking a consistently leaky CMC could cause your new clutch to wear prematurely before it has a chance to break in properly. While you're driving along shifting gears thinking everything is all fine, your clutch isn't able to grab all the way. Maybe the material was so... not set.. that it didn't have to get very hot to burn off, hence no noticeable smell. Again, hopefully I'm wrong because I am but a hobbyist, but it makes sense to me.
also, when you do get it running again you need to find a longer commute. Take a back road, take the scenic route, something. Shoot for 25 mins or so minimum, depending on the ambient temperature outside. Maybe less if it's like 100 or longer if it's in the 40s or colder. And especially don't be getting on it with your short trips. It's good for it to wring it out from time to time, but only AFTER it's had plenty of time to warm up. The oil, diff fluid, trans fluid, tires, and even brakes all need to warm up before they are as effective as they should be. Those multiple short trips a day you're doing are even bad for your engine. Doesn't give all the fluids time to warm up properly and lubricate like they're intended to do. Thicker fluids dont get into the smaller crevacies and you end up with essentially metal rubbing metal. In addition to premature wear, it allows carbon to build up in your engine faster which effectively reduces power.
Also, idling to warm up is unnecessary and not as good as starting off right away and driving easy.
I might be wrong, but I'm thinking a consistently leaky CMC could cause your new clutch to wear prematurely before it has a chance to break in properly. While you're driving along shifting gears thinking everything is all fine, your clutch isn't able to grab all the way. Maybe the material was so... not set.. that it didn't have to get very hot to burn off, hence no noticeable smell. Again, hopefully I'm wrong because I am but a hobbyist, but it makes sense to me.
also, when you do get it running again you need to find a longer commute. Take a back road, take the scenic route, something. Shoot for 25 mins or so minimum, depending on the ambient temperature outside. Maybe less if it's like 100 or longer if it's in the 40s or colder. And especially don't be getting on it with your short trips. It's good for it to wring it out from time to time, but only AFTER it's had plenty of time to warm up. The oil, diff fluid, trans fluid, tires, and even brakes all need to warm up before they are as effective as they should be. Those multiple short trips a day you're doing are even bad for your engine. Doesn't give all the fluids time to warm up properly and lubricate like they're intended to do. Thicker fluids dont get into the smaller crevacies and you end up with essentially metal rubbing metal. In addition to premature wear, it allows carbon to build up in your engine faster which effectively reduces power.
Also, idling to warm up is unnecessary and not as good as starting off right away and driving easy.
05-24-2017, 05:25 AM
#3
Moderator
Moved to UTH
05-24-2017, 06:06 AM
#4
I'm assuming you bled air out of the master cylinder before installing onto the car? Replace the slave cylinder since you already have it then bleed the line.
Did the previous owner use OEM friction disk?
Did the previous owner use OEM friction disk?
05-29-2017, 10:59 AM
#5
Still no grab
Go ahead and replace the slave (& rubber line cause it's cheap.. SS? =D ), gravity bleed, and adjust your pedal free-play to none. Meaning, the only free-play should be in the CMC itself. If you still don't have a clutch, assuming you did the work properly, it's probably your clutch. If all new clutch system bits outside of the bellhousing and it's still giving problems, then it's gotta be inside.
I might be wrong, but I'm thinking a consistently leaky CMC could cause your new clutch to wear prematurely before it has a chance to break in properly. While you're driving along shifting gears thinking everything is all fine, your clutch isn't able to grab all the way. Maybe the material was so... not set.. that it didn't have to get very hot to burn off, hence no noticeable smell. Again, hopefully I'm wrong because I am but a hobbyist, but it makes sense to me.
also, when you do get it running again you need to find a longer commute. Take a back road, take the scenic route, something. Shoot for 25 mins or so minimum, depending on the ambient temperature outside. Maybe less if it's like 100 or longer if it's in the 40s or colder. And especially don't be getting on it with your short trips. It's good for it to wring it out from time to time, but only AFTER it's had plenty of time to warm up. The oil, diff fluid, trans fluid, tires, and even brakes all need to warm up before they are as effective as they should be. Those multiple short trips a day you're doing are even bad for your engine. Doesn't give all the fluids time to warm up properly and lubricate like they're intended to do. Thicker fluids dont get into the smaller crevacies and you end up with essentially metal rubbing metal. In addition to premature wear, it allows carbon to build up in your engine faster which effectively reduces power.
Also, idling to warm up is unnecessary and not as good as starting off right away and driving easy.
I might be wrong, but I'm thinking a consistently leaky CMC could cause your new clutch to wear prematurely before it has a chance to break in properly. While you're driving along shifting gears thinking everything is all fine, your clutch isn't able to grab all the way. Maybe the material was so... not set.. that it didn't have to get very hot to burn off, hence no noticeable smell. Again, hopefully I'm wrong because I am but a hobbyist, but it makes sense to me.
also, when you do get it running again you need to find a longer commute. Take a back road, take the scenic route, something. Shoot for 25 mins or so minimum, depending on the ambient temperature outside. Maybe less if it's like 100 or longer if it's in the 40s or colder. And especially don't be getting on it with your short trips. It's good for it to wring it out from time to time, but only AFTER it's had plenty of time to warm up. The oil, diff fluid, trans fluid, tires, and even brakes all need to warm up before they are as effective as they should be. Those multiple short trips a day you're doing are even bad for your engine. Doesn't give all the fluids time to warm up properly and lubricate like they're intended to do. Thicker fluids dont get into the smaller crevacies and you end up with essentially metal rubbing metal. In addition to premature wear, it allows carbon to build up in your engine faster which effectively reduces power.
Also, idling to warm up is unnecessary and not as good as starting off right away and driving easy.
I ended up swapping both the CMC and the slave and gravity bled. I had trouble with the slave and could not properly get it to fit so out of frustration i decided to try it with only one bolt on, I dropped the car and she went into gear but could not fully engage at higher RPMS (did not drive far max 100ft) I waited for my pops to get home and we were able to put it on properly but when we dropped the car this time it did not want to go into gear at all, so we are assuming that we need to replace the clutch. Anyone know any suggestions on a clutch?? Im a student so im kindve strapped for cash atm
Also thanks everyone for advice and help!
05-29-2017, 01:29 PM
#6
Moderator
A leaking master has nothing to do with the clutch ability to grab. Neither does the slave.
Over 90% of S2000 clutch master cylinders leak. Regular fluid changes will stop the leak.
What type of clutch was installed 20k miles? That's the exact mileage Ive seen aftermarket clutches fall apart.
OEM clutch parts, ONLY available through Honda sources, will go the distance.
Over 90% of S2000 clutch master cylinders leak. Regular fluid changes will stop the leak.
What type of clutch was installed 20k miles? That's the exact mileage Ive seen aftermarket clutches fall apart.
OEM clutch parts, ONLY available through Honda sources, will go the distance.
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