2001 AP1 hesitation and stuttering at low RPM
07-17-2018, 06:39 AM
#11
Hope the O2 sensor does the trick. Does sound like momentary richness, which maybe the old O2 sensor wasn't up to task?
07-17-2018, 10:43 AM
#12
Sounds like you have a bad valve adjustment on there. I know you said you’ve had them adjusted, but it’s not hard to check correct specs. Buy yourself a set of bent feeler gauges, then go back and double check the lash on the valves... I’ll bet you’ll find that they’ve all tightened up past spec.
My AP1 has a replacement F22 head on it, with the work having been done fairly recently.... everything ran fine last summer, but after about 500 miles of running it this spring, it bogged, threw misfire codes, and idled very poorly. I did the IACV, I cleaned the MAP passages, etc, but came to find that every single valve in my head was tight. Yikes. I’ve since adjusted them back to spec, and then again after another 1500 miles. No more codes. No more idle issues.
My AP1 has a replacement F22 head on it, with the work having been done fairly recently.... everything ran fine last summer, but after about 500 miles of running it this spring, it bogged, threw misfire codes, and idled very poorly. I did the IACV, I cleaned the MAP passages, etc, but came to find that every single valve in my head was tight. Yikes. I’ve since adjusted them back to spec, and then again after another 1500 miles. No more codes. No more idle issues.
Last edited by VashTheStampede; 07-17-2018 at 10:46 AM.
07-17-2018, 04:40 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Sounds like you have a bad valve adjustment on there. I know you said you’ve had them adjusted, but it’s not hard to check correct specs. Buy yourself a set of bent feeler gauges, then go back and double check the lash on the valves... I’ll bet you’ll find that they’ve all tightened up past spec.
My AP1 has a replacement F22 head on it, with the work having been done fairly recently.... everything ran fine last summer, but after about 500 miles of running it this spring, it bogged, threw misfire codes, and idled very poorly. I did the IACV, I cleaned the MAP passages, etc, but came to find that every single valve in my head was tight. Yikes. I’ve since adjusted them back to spec, and then again after another 1500 miles. No more codes. No more idle issues.
My AP1 has a replacement F22 head on it, with the work having been done fairly recently.... everything ran fine last summer, but after about 500 miles of running it this spring, it bogged, threw misfire codes, and idled very poorly. I did the IACV, I cleaned the MAP passages, etc, but came to find that every single valve in my head was tight. Yikes. I’ve since adjusted them back to spec, and then again after another 1500 miles. No more codes. No more idle issues.
08-10-2018, 06:58 AM
#14
Thread Starter
Sounds like you have a bad valve adjustment on there. I know you said you’ve had them adjusted, but it’s not hard to check correct specs. Buy yourself a set of bent feeler gauges, then go back and double check the lash on the valves... I’ll bet you’ll find that they’ve all tightened up past spec.
My AP1 has a replacement F22 head on it, with the work having been done fairly recently.... everything ran fine last summer, but after about 500 miles of running it this spring, it bogged, threw misfire codes, and idled very poorly. I did the IACV, I cleaned the MAP passages, etc, but came to find that every single valve in my head was tight. Yikes. I’ve since adjusted them back to spec, and then again after another 1500 miles. No more codes. No more idle issues.
My AP1 has a replacement F22 head on it, with the work having been done fairly recently.... everything ran fine last summer, but after about 500 miles of running it this spring, it bogged, threw misfire codes, and idled very poorly. I did the IACV, I cleaned the MAP passages, etc, but came to find that every single valve in my head was tight. Yikes. I’ve since adjusted them back to spec, and then again after another 1500 miles. No more codes. No more idle issues.
08-14-2018, 10:11 AM
#15
Just wanted to share I had similar problems after I bought my car. Bucking/ kicking, hesitation. Looked and felt like I couldn't drive stick.
The minor fix for me was replacing the IACV entirely; after trying to clean it with no difference, I took the black plastic part off and found it full of rust, making the little shutter/rotor part stick. Replacing that solved a lot of my low RPM bucking/stalling, not all though.
There was a low-tier (cast) skank2 throttle body on the car when I bought it, the butterfly would stick really bad on a warm day. (no wonder they sold the car in the middle of winter. lol) It was hardly noticeable on a cold day (still happened), but warm day/warm motor it was game over, could hardly drive the car. Never seemed like the TPS was right either, even after spending a bunch of time adjusting it.
Replaced it with a used stock throttle body from ebay and haven't had a single bucking incident since.
The minor fix for me was replacing the IACV entirely; after trying to clean it with no difference, I took the black plastic part off and found it full of rust, making the little shutter/rotor part stick. Replacing that solved a lot of my low RPM bucking/stalling, not all though.
There was a low-tier (cast) skank2 throttle body on the car when I bought it, the butterfly would stick really bad on a warm day. (no wonder they sold the car in the middle of winter. lol) It was hardly noticeable on a cold day (still happened), but warm day/warm motor it was game over, could hardly drive the car. Never seemed like the TPS was right either, even after spending a bunch of time adjusting it.
Replaced it with a used stock throttle body from ebay and haven't had a single bucking incident since.
Last edited by mikeyds; 09-06-2018 at 06:54 AM.
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