When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I sadly predict this will not end well. You'll spend a lot, and have a motor that I'd be shocked if it lasts 20k miles.
Many have attempted to do what you are doing, few if any have succeeded. I've never heard of anyone successfully rebuilding one of these motors that wasn't an S2000 specialist rebuilder. Not saying its never been done, just that its so rare I don't know of any examples.
But there are plenty of examples of such attempts, even by very qualified mechanics that have successfully built many other motors, resulting in expensive failures.
This is a case where the mechanics experience will work against him. He'll assume he can pull this off. If you tell him about this warning, and the other similar posts that will follow, he'll likely insist he knows what he's doing. This is misguided.
These motors are notoriously difficult to rebuild. The plan outlined already has serious flaws. So its clear this guy doesn't have the knowledge required to rebuild this motor.
My advice is to stop now will you still can. Either buy a decent used motor, or send it to someplace that can do the rebuild successfully.
I'm very much in agreement with the consensus of who and how to do (or not do) the rebuild, but being in a similar situation, could some of you weigh in on the OP's original question, about what else should be done or looked at? I think clutch is the first thing.... what else?
Would seriously be great - thank you!
Originally Posted by HoondaS2k
Since the motor is out and I'm not in much of a rush to get it back in (although I greatly miss my S2k) what else should I be looking at doing? What parts should I rebuild it with to help make it as solid as I can? Looking at ballad TCT got me wondering what else should I go aftermarket on.
Also, since it's out, any other things I should be inspecting/changing/upgrading to? Clutch, flywheel, motor mounts, drive shaft, injectors, fuel rail, coil packs, banjo bolts..... Suggestions on which ones to go with if I do stray from just oem?
Figure nows my time to do it right. But I'm not entirely sure what the "best right" is.
I'm very much in agreement with the consensus of who and how to do (or not do) the rebuild, but being in a similar situation, could some of you weigh in on the OP's original question, about what else should be done or looked at? I think clutch is the first thing.... what else?
Would seriously be great - thank you!
Everything needs to be looked at in an engine rebuild and the condition judged. I think your best bet is to look through the Honda workshop manual as that's a very good starting point.
If the crank has had a main bearing spun the crank is trash IMO. Get a new or good used one. If that was the culprit the rest of the engine should be fine. Re-ringing it would be the only thing I'd do besides new crank and bearings. That is IF only the main bearing spun. If the cylinder is gouged or damaged you're better off sleeving or look for a replacement engine. Head wear and tear is easier to fix but still not easy. Plus these engines don't like it when you deck the head.
Just swap in a used USDM/JDM engine and go on living your life.
Thanks @B serious, yes, actually I AM leaning that way strongly at this point, but to clarify my question; regardless of what one does to the engine - since it's out...what are other natural things to think about also doing?
- The clutch is a freebee except parts, so I'm thinking that should be replaced;
- I'm going to put in a test pipe since my cat is toast;
- what else?
I heard that the upper control arm mounts can be pulling away from the frame and should be checked - that sound like a good idea!
Anything else good to at least check, since I'll be able to get to everything? Motor mounts? Flux capacitors??
If you are going to do this, I suggest you install sleeves to get past the frm trickyness and to open up your piston options. I happen to have a new set of flanged Darton dry sleeves if you are interested. PM me.
Sadly this adds a new set of issues to consider, which is you have to run a looser then oem spec piston to cylinder clearance due to the dissimilar expansion rates of a iron sleeve and aluminum piston, which means generally higher oil consumption, piston slap and increased wear shortening overall life of the engine. This is a common recommended practice for high boost application producing 600whp+ so the positives of the engine itself holding together outweigh the negatives I pointed out. But with an otherwise stock application, its simply a waste of money for less longevity from oem.
My suggestion for the OP is to shop for a used oem engine and have it dropped in. Engine cost including labor for removal/install should be about $4500 depending on the engine found and mileage.
Sadly this adds a new set of issues to consider, which is you have to run a looser then oem spec piston to cylinder clearance due to the dissimilar expansion rates of a iron sleeve and aluminum piston, which means generally higher oil consumption, piston slap and increased wear shortening overall life of the engine. This is a common recommended practice for high boost application producing 600whp+ so the positives of the engine itself holding together outweigh the negatives I pointed out. But with an otherwise stock application, its simply a waste of money for less longevity from oem.
My suggestion for the OP is to shop for a used oem engine and have it dropped in. Engine cost including labor for removal/install should be about $4500 depending on the engine found and mileage.
Seems like $4500ish is the going rate for just the engine lately :/
04-05-2019, 09:58 AM
