Best gauges for valve adjustment?
 

I was reading about DIY valve adjustments, particularly the Billman thread and Rob Robinette:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/245...ve-adjustment/
http://robrobinette.com/S2000ValveAdjust.htm

It sounds like there's a consensus that straight (non-bent) gauges will NOT work.

But can you guys recommend a specific model that works 100% perfectly?

I was eyeballing these (made in USA, Snap-On for ~$18):
https://store.snapon.com/Bent-And-St...--P635153.aspx

I'm assuming I would want a full set from 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.010, 0.011, 0.012 (to measure one notch below the MIN and one notch above the MAX for AP1 adjustments of 0.008in [intake] and 0.011 in [exhaust], respectively), correct?

P.S. If you have any specific models you have on Amazon, please post them up. Rob's Craftsmen model is no longer for sale online (I can't find it!).

Thanks!

Those are basically what I used. However I did take them apart and use the feeler gauges individually. I thought I had better control that way. I would also pick up the adjustment tool in 10mm. (Basically a flat blade screwdriver inside a nut driver) Make sure the car is stone cold. Good luck and take your time, you should be fine.

Bent 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.010, 0.011, 0.012 are all ya need. Straight blades won't slide in and they'll snap like glass if you try to bend them.

10mm valve adjustment tool is extremely helpful for those of us with only two hands.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...6fdea5_400.jpg

Amazon will have both.

-- Chuck

-- Chuck

I have the snap on angled feeler gauge set you listed above. And as another person said, just remove the individual gauges for some of the harder to reach tappets. Also pick up the snap on 10mm adjustment wrench. A friend of mine bought the one from amazon that is offered by another brand and I did not like it at all. It made the adjustment much more difficult for him and when I gave him mine it went way faster (I think it was just a looser of a tool so hard to get the screwdriver lined up on the adjuster).

You can get a set of 90° feelers for diesel motors, they're quite pricey but worth it, doing cylinder 4 becomes muuuch easier.

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=1461761586831

I have a friend that takes cheap angled sets, puts them in a vice, and hammers them to the angle needed for the car he is working on. They will usually last for the job he is doing but often break, but no big deal, for a few bucks he has a truly custom tool that works better than the off the shelf version.

I also remove "keeper ring" on the angled set for easier manipulation of individual blades. I take a Sharpie and write the gauge in big numbers to make it easy to know which one I am dealing with as I go back and forth to make sure it is set. I have an older Craftsman, bent, I bought in store.

For me, it took a little playing with them initially, to get the right feel for the feelers sliding in and out. Pay attention to the plug tubes seals positions.

Also, putting a layer of masking tape on the held end of the gauge helps with moving blade around & not slipping. And the "feel" process.

I just took out the ones needed from a straight set and then bent them, the thinner ones seemed to be very flexible :)

Thanks everyone for the comments.

Can someone clarify on the exact SIZES.

I was reading on how to "feel the drag" and per Billman:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/919...t__p__21295246

Per Billman's instructions, if I want to 100% be anal and do this right, I would need 3 gauges for the intake (0.007, 0.008, 0.009), and 3 for the exhaust (0.009, 0.010, 0.011), assuming the format (noDrag, snugFit, greatForceWontFit)... correct??