Billman's Brake Fluid Gravity bleeding revised
10-11-2016, 04:49 AM
#101
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I just did this today and my brake travel is now only 2-3 inches (much shorter than before). It feels completely different now than how it was before I started the bleed. I haven't test drove it yet as I messed up on my clutch bleed (air in lines). But I want to know if this is normal or did I mess up the brakes also. I thought the brake feel should be the same as before...
Please help.
Please help.
If you get no change, your old fluid was not bad.
10-11-2016, 03:43 PM
#102
Originally Posted by tommiexboi' timestamp='1469240831' post='24022888
I just did this today and my brake travel is now only 2-3 inches (much shorter than before). It feels completely different now than how it was before I started the bleed. I haven't test drove it yet as I messed up on my clutch bleed (air in lines). But I want to know if this is normal or did I mess up the brakes also. I thought the brake feel should be the same as before...
Please help.
Please help.
If you get no change, your old fluid was not bad.
10-12-2016, 06:40 AM
#103
Originally Posted by climhazzard
This may be a stupid question, but does the actual pedal travel change, or just the friction point? I'm thinking the pedal travel doesn't alter based on fluid..but I may be mistaken.
Air is compressible, hydraulic fluid is not. So as you move pedal, instead of that translating to clamping force at the caliper, it just compresses the air. Press more, and at some point air is compressed enough to create enough pressure for caliper to work. But its all spongy and full of slack and imprecise.
Remove the air, and every millimeter of pedal motion, in and out, translates to motion in caliper.
Also the air is very temp sensitive. So as you heat brakes, it all gets worse. Air is bad. So is moisture.
10-16-2016, 11:11 AM
#104
I'm planning on putting the car in storage by the end of the month and typically take it back out around April/May the following year. Is it best to change the brake and clutch fluids before storage or after? The car is kept in an unheated garage in the northeast, if that matters. The current fluid in there is ATE Typ 200 changed 2 years, 4k miles ago. Thanks!
08-04-2017, 04:54 AM
#108
As in DOT 5? It is not compatible with DOT 3/4, avoid it. There also exists DOT 5.1 which is glycol based like DOT 3/4, if you like high numbers you can use that, but is not necessary. A good DOT4 fluid will work just fine, in fact DOT3 fluid will actually last longest, which is why Honda recommends it. The others require more frequent changing.
08-04-2017, 06:49 AM
#109
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You can also use ATE 706402 SL.6 DOT 4 Brake Fluid. It is designed to work faster in ABS/VSA.
The SL6 is a low viscosity fluid designed especially for cars with electronic brake systems whereas the Type 200 is a high performance fluid that replaces regular DOT 4 applications.
SL6 Specs are as follows:
Dry Boiling Point: 265 deg. C (509 deg. F). Wet Boiling Point: 170 deg. C (338 deg. F).
DOT 4 Type 200 specs are as follows:
Dry Boiling Point: 280 deg. C (536 deg. F). Wet Boiling Point: 198 deg. C (388 deg. F).
The SL6 is a low viscosity fluid designed especially for cars with electronic brake systems whereas the Type 200 is a high performance fluid that replaces regular DOT 4 applications.
SL6 Specs are as follows:
Dry Boiling Point: 265 deg. C (509 deg. F). Wet Boiling Point: 170 deg. C (338 deg. F).
DOT 4 Type 200 specs are as follows:
Dry Boiling Point: 280 deg. C (536 deg. F). Wet Boiling Point: 198 deg. C (388 deg. F).
03-29-2020, 10:42 AM
#110
Resurrection: I want to try this for that "rock solid" that the conventional 2 person method does not seem to acquire. I have stoptech bbk in the front with two bleeder valves. Will this process take even longer or can I open both valves and watch two tubes drain.
