Billman’s P1457 DIY
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Jose Figueroa (12-27-2019)
04-04-2011, 10:37 AM
#22
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Thread Starter
Hey Billman,I had this code come up yesterday. I don't have the tools or more to the point the expertise to make the testers you are describing here. How hard is it to replace these items? And what do they call them or what Honda part number are they? I did some searching is this the items you are talking about http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ENOID+VALVEAny input would really help out.Thanks.Kevin
the link you posted is for the evap purge valve and that is not what i posted up.
04-19-2011, 01:04 PM
#24
To start off, make a tester with two wires coming off of it, that can plug into the bypass valve. I used a cam sensor connector. it is the same for the cam sensors and the bypass valve. It will also fit the evap purge valve and it will fit the evap canister shut valve. so all three valves in the system can be tested with one test tool. I will try to get a pic of it also.
Time to test...
-evap bypass solonoid/valve in GREEN box
-evap purge solonoid/valve (up by the engine, located straight down from the IAC valve on the intake manifold)
-evap canister shut solonoid/valve (mounted right to the canister by the dif, with a brownish connector)
-use this test harness to add power and ground to all 3 evap solonoids. Purge, bypass, and canister shut. Positive and negative is not important. you should hear a nice click when powered, and a another click when disconected from power. on this car here, the evap bypass solonoid was shorted out. When i tried to add power and ground, it would break the circuit breaker in my power probe. The other two solonoids were ok.
Lastly, with the car off and on jack stands, disconnect the hose on the two way valve, where i have marked the YELLOW box. connect a hose here, and simply add vaccuum. The two way valve, while bolted to the bypass valve, should hold vaccuum.
If you dont have a vaccuum pump(and this is where the boys get separated from the men) you can suck on the hose to make vaccuum, and cap it with your tongue it should hold your tongue to the hose. if you cannot build vaccuum and can feel it just keeps pulling air, the two way valve is bad. On this car here, the valve did not hold vaccum.
I'll work on more pics...
Time to test...
-evap bypass solonoid/valve in GREEN box
-evap purge solonoid/valve (up by the engine, located straight down from the IAC valve on the intake manifold)
-evap canister shut solonoid/valve (mounted right to the canister by the dif, with a brownish connector)
-use this test harness to add power and ground to all 3 evap solonoids. Purge, bypass, and canister shut. Positive and negative is not important. you should hear a nice click when powered, and a another click when disconected from power. on this car here, the evap bypass solonoid was shorted out. When i tried to add power and ground, it would break the circuit breaker in my power probe. The other two solonoids were ok.
Lastly, with the car off and on jack stands, disconnect the hose on the two way valve, where i have marked the YELLOW box. connect a hose here, and simply add vaccuum. The two way valve, while bolted to the bypass valve, should hold vaccuum.
If you dont have a vaccuum pump(and this is where the boys get separated from the men) you can suck on the hose to make vaccuum, and cap it with your tongue
it should hold your tongue to the hose. if you cannot build vaccuum and can feel it just keeps pulling air, the two way valve is bad. On this car here, the valve did not hold vaccum.I'll work on more pics...
06-07-2011, 02:34 PM
#26
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Greetings. 
Recently, I have noticed that my car starts at 2000 RPM when the engine is cold.
As the engine heats up, the RPM is going down under 1000.
I asked a few of my friends about this since I don't know much about it, and they said it might be because of hot weather. (I live in Florida.)
And the car ran without problems for a month or so, hence I didn't pay much attention to it until today.
While I was driving my car to pick up something from a store, the CEL went off.
I got this CEL code P1457.
I tried to search what exactly my problem is and came across with this thread.
I have no skill to make the tester and my local Honda dealership is ridiculously expensive, hence I think it is better to replace the old part(s).
Can anybody help me what part(s) I have to replace? Something like part number or name?
Thanks in advance.
Recently, I have noticed that my car starts at 2000 RPM when the engine is cold.
As the engine heats up, the RPM is going down under 1000.
I asked a few of my friends about this since I don't know much about it, and they said it might be because of hot weather. (I live in Florida.)
And the car ran without problems for a month or so, hence I didn't pay much attention to it until today.
While I was driving my car to pick up something from a store, the CEL went off.
I got this CEL code P1457.
I tried to search what exactly my problem is and came across with this thread.
I have no skill to make the tester and my local Honda dealership is ridiculously expensive, hence I think it is better to replace the old part(s).
Can anybody help me what part(s) I have to replace? Something like part number or name?
Thanks in advance.
06-07-2011, 08:26 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Evap bypass valve/solonoid. It's the part far right side of my picture. It would be worth it to replace the two-way valve also. The two parts are screwed together with two philips screws.
06-08-2011, 09:20 AM
#28
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Just to make sure, are these the parts that I need to replace? (from this diagram)
17012-S10-L00 005 001 VALVE SET, SOLENOID (17012-S10-L01 005 001 VALVE SET, SOLENOID)
17371-S0X-A02 011 001 VALVE (TWO-WAY)
It seems like Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts doesn't got one.
