davidc1

I supposed you need to use caution to not let the drill bit contact the threads on the bolt hole and damage them?

Car Analogy

Use a center punch, I prefer the spring loaded type, and chose a bit much smaller than the bolt. This way if you are a bit off center or don't drill perfectly plumb, you won't risk damage to threads.

Then carefully step up to the next size bit. Chances are if the bolt can be removed with reverse threaded bit, you won't even get that far before its out. The first bit will get it.

Kwincy

I got the pan back on a few days ago and I'm putting oil in the car today. I'll let everyone know how it goes!

jaymz

I can guarantee we do not put sealant on any bolts on or in Honda engines. While I do not build the S2000 engines Honda builds most if not all engines with similar techniques.
I do work in the Engine plant at Honda of Canada Manufacturing in final repair. The 2 engines we build here now and previous models all use the same technique for sealing parts on the engine.
Oil pan is a constant bead around the inner edge of the part does not circle any bolts. Now when the part is installed the sealant will squeeze onto the bolts but will not contact the threads which are already in the holes.
The main focus for us determining a good bead is the "dog bone" that is the sealant that squeezes inside the pan and creates a barrier at the joint.

windhund116

Do you wait a little ---- and how long, if you do ---- for the sealant to set, before tightening the bolts?


Thanks!

Kwincy

i waited a few hours before I torqued the bolts, but I don't believe you need to wait that long. The back of the Hondabond package says it takes 60 minutes for the surface layer to dry, 16 hours for a rubber-like consistency and 3 days for a perfect seal. I waited two days before filling the pan and another before starting the car.

Since I had the car on jacks, I also changed the transmission fluid using this guide:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/transmission-fluid-change-diy-565855/

My fluid was brown in color. I know I haven't changed it since I bought it in 2013 and I doubt that the previous owner changed it before he sold it to me at 39k miles.

jaymz

All our parts are installed immediately and torqued usually by a robot. The assembly line makes 1000 a day no waiting around here lol. In fact we are told there is a seven minute window after which the sealant must be reapplied if the part is not installed.
I am in final repair and I do head changes and block changes all day long and I seal and install every part and torque immediately. I have never had a leak yet. And we do leak test every engine for oil and water before it leaves our facility to be installed in a vehicle.

windhund116

Thanks! Must be new & better types of sealant. I remember the old-school stuff worked best, if the bond was allow to set --- like 10-15 minutes at 70ºF.

I still do this. Must learn to read instructions of new stuff.

jaymz

We use ThreeBond 1215 mostly. We do use loctite SI 599M as well. Honestly I will do a block change that takes me about 6hrs and I will leak test it, fill it with oil and run it on our test fire bench (basically a dyno but no load put on it) just to confirm it runs and no abnormal noises and then ship it. Usually it is in a vehicle within a couple days.