Burning oil - need help reading this OBD II diagnostic output info
#1
Thread Starter
Burning oil - need help reading this OBD II diagnostic output info
Need the experts help on diagnosing this:
For the first time, after 14 years old girl has been burning oil and I have no idea where or how. (2004 with 109,000, bone stock, Redline 10-40W for 25k miles, before that Eneos Synth 0W-50 for 70k miles) In the past 2,500 miles it's been almost a quart, and seems to have started after I did my first ever oil change on the car (coincidence?). I have checked everywhere for a leak, and see absolutely no drips, drops, absolutely nothing anywhere. I purchased Fusion OBD reader for Iphone in the hopes that maybe something out of the ordinary can be seen to help the diagnosis but I'm not sure what I'm looking for as there are no codes or pending codes. I've included a snapshot of running the car, some pulls and idle, but I'm not sure if this information is even accurate since Fusion OBD requires you to plug in VE% and Brake Specific Fuel Consumption and that information I have not been able to find anywhere. I'd be willing to try another OBD App if someone can recommend a good one.
The only other symptom is that the car sounds like it is doing this very gentle 'puff, puffing' sound from the exhaust at idle. I found that running the valves at the 'tighter' end of the spec increases this puffing, putting it at center almost eliminates it, but the puffing has started to come back again with the oil loss.
Next week I plan on doing a compression and leak down test once I buy the gauges and checking the valves and poking around. Also to note, some things that were done to the car 9-12 months ago and prior to burning oil:
- Valves adjusted to dead center specs (not tight, not loose, center)
- New valve cover as the other was flaking bad (new seals and gaskets all around)
- New OEM spark plugs
- Throttle Body removed and channel cleaned (new gasket)
- IACV removed, cleaned, new gasket
- Billman TCT (prevenative maint)
- VTEC Solenoid gaskets replaced (OEM / Kraken)
- New Battery Aug 2017
- OEM Air Filter
- OEM MAP sensor replaced
- Cylinders Bore Scoped and super clean, walls appeared with no scoring
- Compression tests great (can't find numbers)
- Leak Down test, Cylinder 3 was a tad higher then the other per the mechanic, but was fine...can't find the numbers either
Last week:
- I pulled the plugs and they all looked fine (can provide pics if necessary), tube seals looked fine
- PCV valve test and it ticks once (so should be fine)
- I don't think there is oil in coolant, it 'looks fine' but how else to check?
Possible problem:
- Overtightened oil filter - and it leaks straight to ground with no splash on hard pressure VTEC straight down
On to the numbers! ...thanks in advance...
For the first time, after 14 years old girl has been burning oil and I have no idea where or how. (2004 with 109,000, bone stock, Redline 10-40W for 25k miles, before that Eneos Synth 0W-50 for 70k miles) In the past 2,500 miles it's been almost a quart, and seems to have started after I did my first ever oil change on the car (coincidence?). I have checked everywhere for a leak, and see absolutely no drips, drops, absolutely nothing anywhere. I purchased Fusion OBD reader for Iphone in the hopes that maybe something out of the ordinary can be seen to help the diagnosis but I'm not sure what I'm looking for as there are no codes or pending codes. I've included a snapshot of running the car, some pulls and idle, but I'm not sure if this information is even accurate since Fusion OBD requires you to plug in VE% and Brake Specific Fuel Consumption and that information I have not been able to find anywhere. I'd be willing to try another OBD App if someone can recommend a good one.
The only other symptom is that the car sounds like it is doing this very gentle 'puff, puffing' sound from the exhaust at idle. I found that running the valves at the 'tighter' end of the spec increases this puffing, putting it at center almost eliminates it, but the puffing has started to come back again with the oil loss.
Next week I plan on doing a compression and leak down test once I buy the gauges and checking the valves and poking around. Also to note, some things that were done to the car 9-12 months ago and prior to burning oil:
- Valves adjusted to dead center specs (not tight, not loose, center)
- New valve cover as the other was flaking bad (new seals and gaskets all around)
- New OEM spark plugs
- Throttle Body removed and channel cleaned (new gasket)
- IACV removed, cleaned, new gasket
- Billman TCT (prevenative maint)
- VTEC Solenoid gaskets replaced (OEM / Kraken)
- New Battery Aug 2017
- OEM Air Filter
- OEM MAP sensor replaced
- Cylinders Bore Scoped and super clean, walls appeared with no scoring
- Compression tests great (can't find numbers)
- Leak Down test, Cylinder 3 was a tad higher then the other per the mechanic, but was fine...can't find the numbers either
Last week:
- I pulled the plugs and they all looked fine (can provide pics if necessary), tube seals looked fine
- PCV valve test and it ticks once (so should be fine)
- I don't think there is oil in coolant, it 'looks fine' but how else to check?
Possible problem:
- Overtightened oil filter - and it leaks straight to ground with no splash on hard pressure VTEC straight down
On to the numbers! ...thanks in advance...
#2
Any soot/oil on your rear bumper? Wild guess: valve guides
#3
Thread Starter
#6
Thread Starter
Can anyone help decipher the OBD II readout please? This is really what I'm asking help for, the rest are data points to reference the print out.
- Eneos 0W-50 was something special, had an amazing range, ran it for over 10 years until they discontinued it. I tracked it early in the life for about 2,500 miles, daily driver... this oil was amazing. Dealership sold and recommended it, Eneos is very well known in Japan.
- It's crazy, but after 14 years of ownership, I actually figured out how to check the dipstick.
- As stated it's now burned almost a quart in the 2,500 miles since the last change. I've had to add oil twice to keep from going below the last X.
No bueno, need to find the cause, something is wrong.
- It's crazy, but after 14 years of ownership, I actually figured out how to check the dipstick.
- As stated it's now burned almost a quart in the 2,500 miles since the last change. I've had to add oil twice to keep from going below the last X.
No bueno, need to find the cause, something is wrong.
#7
Thread Starter
Here are results from 5 minutes of the car idling after driving home from work, with a couple times running it at 1500 and 2500 RPM. If the long and short term % in a couple areas exceed's 10% does this indicate a problem? I'm not quite sure what the other two readings for the short term sensor 1 and 2 readings are for. Any help is much appreciated deciphering these numbers.
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#9
Can anyone help decipher the OBD II readout please? This is really what I'm asking help for, the rest are data points to reference the print out.
- Eneos 0W-50 was something special, had an amazing range, ran it for over 10 years until they discontinued it. I tracked it early in the life for about 2,500 miles, daily driver... this oil was amazing. Dealership sold and recommended it, Eneos is very well known in Japan.
- It's crazy, but after 14 years of ownership, I actually figured out how to check the dipstick.
- As stated it's now burned almost a quart in the 2,500 miles since the last change. I've had to add oil twice to keep from going below the last X.
No bueno, need to find the cause, something is wrong.
- Eneos 0W-50 was something special, had an amazing range, ran it for over 10 years until they discontinued it. I tracked it early in the life for about 2,500 miles, daily driver... this oil was amazing. Dealership sold and recommended it, Eneos is very well known in Japan.
- It's crazy, but after 14 years of ownership, I actually figured out how to check the dipstick.
- As stated it's now burned almost a quart in the 2,500 miles since the last change. I've had to add oil twice to keep from going below the last X.
No bueno, need to find the cause, something is wrong.
#10
Burning 1Q in 2500 miles? Wish mine was that minimal. I'm running an F20 with 85k miles on the clock and it goes through 1Q about every 1500 miles. I'm checking and topping off the oil with every fuel fill up. You are right in the median range of oil consumption on this car and pretty reasonable for a car that was tracked with 110k on the clock. All I can suggest is if you are using Mobil 1, ditch it for almost anything else, as that oil has some of the highest levels of additives that cook off dramatically, leaving you will a higher rate of consumption over the duration of your oil change intervals.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 12-08-2018 at 11:50 AM.