tizbad2k

Im going to be replacing my cam chain tensioner tommorow and would like someone who has done it before to confirm the steps for me.

1. Get stuff out of the way , intake box, possibly other items
2. Take cover off chain tensioner, as well as remove nozzle.
3. Compress the piston of tensioner w/ bolt with threaded nut, so piston doesnt fall of inside.
4. Install new tensioner in place, take off maintenance hole cover on side, remove set pin. Replace maintenanc hole cover.
5. Replace nozzle and put on cover for the new tensioner.
6. Put back stuff that was removed to gain access.

my questions are.
A) What else may need to be removed apart from intake box?
B) Could i potentially hold the piston in place with a bolt threaded onto it, (ie without the nut, but making sure its all held in place while removal).
C) Are there any washers or gaskets involved apart from those supplied with the new tensioner?

Billman250

A-intake box removal only is fine.

B-Yes you could....if you're careful, you don't even need to remove the top plate and retract the piston. You can just pull the two main bolts and pull the unit (as long as you're installing a new one) Just pull it out slowly and it will all come out.

The new tensioner will come fully assembled and retracted. No need to mess with the nozzle or cover. Just install, TIGHTEN TWO BOLTS FIRST, then pull the pin through the allen plug hole.

C-new O-ring will come on the new tensioner, thats it

tizbad2k

thanks a lot man, im going to take care of this as soon as it arrives , hopefully in the next hour or so

Billman250

It's pretty sad....I have THREE more to do this weekend. That's about 15 total. Two of them are low mileage 2004's.

1 is a comback in a 2003...had the noise, new tensioner, noise went away for about two months. Now it's back, and I'll put in the same piece of crap that was in there before.

I sure hope Honda jumps on the ball soon with a new part number.

If not, I'll be looking for a permanent fix, possibly a modified stock unit. Stay tuned

tizbad2k

what do you think it is?

could it be that the spring is to weak and is just getting slightly deformed?

Billman250

Nope.

I think it has to do with friction of the worm gear sticking to the inside of the piston, not allowing it to fully extend.

jimi

Yeah, I'm the comeback kid! If this 2nd one craps out I'll be first in line for the modified one.

tizbad2k

well i changed mine , and everything went fine, tested for oil leaks and all that.

But some of the noise is still there, im starting to think that it could potentially be time for a valve job.

Either way im glad that i got this out of the way, with the car getting old i think changing this is good preventative maintenance.

S2oooNvegas

i think oil type, and quality has something to do with it. i never had a problem, and neither did mike. then we decided to change to mobil 1 on the same day. and at the same interval, we both had rattle. it was spooky. mike went back to conventional oil as a test, and i changed tensioner. needless to say, within 2k miles, his was rattling again. not able to stay pumped up. i have a feeling it has to do with one of the seals internally blowing by. my .02

lates dave

RACER

I see your logic here, but wouldn't a heavier spring aid the worm gear to move the way it is supposed to?

btw, I have 13,400 hard miles on my car and switched to M1 at 7.5k miles. This thing run's the way it did the day I drove it off the lot.








*Knock's on wood*