Car Drifting Right - Ball Joint Fitment
Last shop just did the caster to spec not max it out like this one did. I’ll pull the wheels today and take pics but I doubt it. Ball joints are brand new OEM 2k miles ago so it’s definitely not ball joints.
Haven't had a chance to pull the wheel yet, I did pull the EPS fuse again and while I think something weird is going on there its not the cause of the right side pull. I drove the car on a ton of different roads and as flat as I could find and its definitely not just the road crown.
One thing to keep in mind with the alignment is that I raised the front end of the car prior to this alignment so theres no guarantee my before caster was my actual caster.
One thing to keep in mind with the alignment is that I raised the front end of the car prior to this alignment so theres no guarantee my before caster was my actual caster.
When you raised the suspension, did you reclock the bushings?
I'm wondering if one side is reclocked, other is not, creating a discrepancy of suspension loading, essentially spring rate imbalance.
If they didn't need to adjust alignment cam bolts on one side, but did on the other, then one side would get automatically relocked, other would stay misclocked.
But relocking cam bolts risks tweaking alignment settings.
Also, upper ca bushings are regular bolts. Can reclock those without issue.
I'm wondering if one side is reclocked, other is not, creating a discrepancy of suspension loading, essentially spring rate imbalance.
If they didn't need to adjust alignment cam bolts on one side, but did on the other, then one side would get automatically relocked, other would stay misclocked.
But relocking cam bolts risks tweaking alignment settings.
Also, upper ca bushings are regular bolts. Can reclock those without issue.
When you raised the suspension, did you reclock the bushings?
I'm wondering if one side is reclocked, other is not, creating a discrepancy of suspension loading, essentially spring rate imbalance.
If they didn't need to adjust alignment cam bolts on one side, but did on the other, then one side would get automatically relocked, other would stay misclocked.
But relocking cam bolts risks tweaking alignment settings.
Also, upper ca bushings are regular bolts. Can reclock those without issue.
I'm wondering if one side is reclocked, other is not, creating a discrepancy of suspension loading, essentially spring rate imbalance.
If they didn't need to adjust alignment cam bolts on one side, but did on the other, then one side would get automatically relocked, other would stay misclocked.
But relocking cam bolts risks tweaking alignment settings.
Also, upper ca bushings are regular bolts. Can reclock those without issue.
Got a nice warm weekend and pulled the front wheels off. I can't find anything to explain it. Ball joints, tie rods, everything is nice and tight. No sign of any wear on the compliance bushings at all. I'm stumped.
Spoke too soon, I FOUND IT!!!! Threw a wrench on the upper control arm and found the upper ball joint loose!!!!! So the question becomes, did I not fully torque it 3 years ago when I replaced the front hubs or is the knuckle/ball joint out of round. Torqued up nicely, so I might just drive it for a couple weeks and see if it stays or not. I'm just thrilled I found something.
After about 150 miles the upper ball joint is still perfectly tight with zero movement. Car does feel a ton better but I am still getting a pull to the right. Going to get it re-aligned but I'm doubtful that mm of looseness was enough to knock the toe alignment off enough to notice.











