Check engine light on solid
 

2004 S2000, Mileage 135,000. Had AutoZone pull the codes: P0172, P1457. Read definition on this site. Fuel System too rich, EVAP Control system leakage. Then this comment from AutoZone: ASE Certified Master Technicians have seen this issue on your type of vehicle and the most likely solution is: Replace Timing Chain and Tensioner. FYI - this has not been done anytime in the past.

Comments?

Replace timing chain.. Wow that's a good one :rolleyes:
My first guess would be the purge solenoid valve is stuck open but there could be other things as well.
Try to find and download the work shop manual, there are links on this forum that should not be to hard to find.
Then search for P1457 and follow the troubleshooting guide there, P0172 is most probably just a secondary fault because of the P1457.

That is the worst advice I've ever seen.

If your car is running super rich then you either have a vacuum leak, your O2 sensor is about to bite the big one, or you have leaking injectors, or absolute worst case scenario you have a bad ECU. Is power ok? Does it idle fine? Do you see a lot of soot on your bumper? The more details you give us, the easier it is for us to form an accurate picture of your situation and give better guidance.

Hope you weren't referring to my advice :)
Here you can get the manual I was talking about http://s2000.club
The 2000-2008 version is the best.

A vacuum leak causes a car to run lean, not rich. If large enough though, the system can go full rich on the mixture to try to compensate which may set the rich condition. Would defintely try to isolate vacuum related issues setting the EVAP code and go from there.

AutoZone's LOL.

Vacuum leak causes car to run lean and then the O2 sensor picks it up and floods the engine with fuel to compensate. Won't happen while the car is warming up though, because the ECU only relies on the O2 when it goes closed loop.

It is impossible for a chain, tensioner, or both to fix your problem. That is beyond an incompetent answer, not even a good educated guess.

P1457 is likely due to one of the 3 evap control valves sticking.

"ASE Certified Master Technicians."

Not like they just throwing any old title around. :argh:

Autozone is really kinda like the Kmart of autoparts stores, and I dont even expect reliable repair advice from a good autoparts store :P

Ha autozone. That’s like saying we’re YouTube certified techs. Well just so happens, I’m a Honda tech for over 14 years. When I get in tomorrow I’ll log into Honda Interactive network and see what the troubleshooting for those codes are. I believe there is a bulletin about checking the timing to see if the marks are correct. If out of time, the pcm could be adding fuel to try and achieve target AF. But lemme check and I’ll get back to you.

thanks for the help !

There is a bulletin about checking timing. Possibility timing could be off. If marks are where they need to be
next step is to check fuel pressure. If too high, check pressure regulator and fuel return pipe.
too low check pump, feed pipe, fuel filter and press regulator.
if fuel pressure ok check primary 02 with scan tool. Hold eng rpm at 3k without load until operating temp. Check sensor 1 (primary) output. Does it stay less than. .3v or more than .6v? If so, replace 02
if no apply vaccume to evap canister purge from intake manifold side. Does it hold vaccume?
yes=check valve clearances and adjust, if clearance is ok, replace intectors
no=replace evap canister purge valve
end of dtc troubleshooting for p0171/p0172

in p1457 2 things that are mentioned are the canister purge valve. Id check the connected at the purge valve and also check hoses if cracked or broken. If you have access to a scan tool, you can disconnect the purge valve and put a test light on the connector and activate the purge. It should light up. Also with it plugged in, and commanded on, yiu should be a able to feel it click. No click is a indication the valve is ng or stuck in the position it’s in.

Thanks!

Even if the chain was stretched to a point where the engine would no longer sync, and run (timing tabs on crank and cam so far off, ECU deems piston-to-valve contact) it will not set a rich code in an S2000.

The only way they could be way out is if the motor was recently assembled out of time.

Valve clearance would be my starting point.

agree. Checking valve clearance would be my starting point too. Usually we recommend valve adjust around 100k. While you’re there you’ll be able to see if your timing is off or not.

Adjusted valves Summer, 2018

Hate to say it but it could be the O2 sensor.

Let’s ask the fuel trim. Do you have the STFT data?

Meeting with my mechanic today and I will ask him about STFT. Couple of things...I installed a cold air intake in '06. I noticed the check engine light came on after I had got on it a little and kicked in the VTEC. Not sure if this means anything.

Any time the CEL comes on, it means something.

If you don’t retrieve the code, it might as well mean nothing.

I would inspect the valve clearance on the exhaust side, you don't need to change anything unless you can't fit a .010" feeler gauge with the cam lobes pointed away from the rocker arm.

??

You mentioned that your CEL light came one once after you installed the intake and asked if it meant anything. The answer is yes, it did or the light would not have come on. But, if you did not retrieve the code so you know what it was, then the light was useless basically.

An aftermarket intake should never set any codes. They really have a TINY impact on anything for the most part (well some have a negative impact) and the system will not set codes just from switching intakes. So in the case that it does, you should pull the code to find out what it was trying to tell you.

You can get a basic code reader for very, very cheap. There are ones with phone based apps, ones that are stand alone, etc that are all very affordable If you are going to be tinkering with your car, I recommend getting one vs going to autozone.I keep a small tool bag in my trunk (filled with Harbor Freight tools instead of my better tools) and have a reader in there. Comes in handy when something goes wrong!

Any S2000 driven to 100k without a valve adjustment is almost certain to have excessive valve train and guide wear. Waiting until 100k on a 2006-2009 is a guarantee for burnt valves.

All S2000s are due at 15k miles, and 70k intervals thereafter.
2006-2009 are reduced to 50k intervals, or 25k intervals on cars found with tight exhaust valves.

Thanks to Billman's advice I discovered my 2009 did indeed have some tight exhaust valves in the 40K range of miles (Don't recall exactly) I did it again in the 60s and found things had not changed since the first valve adjustment. So glad Billman was on top of things and let everyone know.
Bravo Zulu to Billman!