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Clutch adjustment woes

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Old 09-03-2017, 05:44 PM
  #1  

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Default Clutch adjustment woes

Two weeks ago I replaced my leaking clutch master cylinder with a new Honda OEM unit:

  • Old one leaked for about 25k miles, and I kept clean fluid in it at all times
  • Installed new Honda OEM MC
  • Bled new MC, new DOT 3 fluid
  • Adjusted it per: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rs02...=youtu.be&t=70
  • From the video, I was never able to rotate it clockwise and have it feel a resistance -- the whole thing "resisted" and never rotated as freely as in the video
  • Made a few adjustments and it felt OK when shifting
  • Fast forward two weeks -- today it was 110F outside and I had a passenger for once and I started grinding on the 1st-to-2nd gear shift (about 6+ times -- never happened to me in years)
  • Fluid level is still good and clean, no abuse/launches, no leaks or clutch slipping symptoms
  • Cruise control is not working either (was working before the new MC)
Questions:

So what does this mean? I need to loosen the adjustment screw and rotate the rod counter-clockwise??

Is the clutch switch always supposed to be engaged at pedal rest?? (Right now it's not engaged/pressed on by the pedal at all). I'm assuming this is the reason the cruise control stopped working?

I'm more frustrated that I can't get any feel of resistance when rotating the rod... Does this mean I went a little too far in getting rid of the free play? When I had it adjusted a little less, every shift felt jerky when I would disengage the clutch.

I've done harder things then this... Sigh.
Old 09-04-2017, 02:32 PM
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Surprised at the lack of responses. Was my OP too verbose?

Today I loosened the 12mm lock-nut:
  • Pressing with my pinky, clutch pedal only has the "good" built-in play from the MC
  • I can't spin the rod freely unless the clutch pedal is *slightly* pressed
  • I spun the rod counter-clockwise and introduced additional play back in -- now there's the rod play + the built-in play from the MC
  • I also had to loosen the 14mm clutch switch nut and back that in almost all the way until the switch is fully pressed (when the clutch is disengaged)
Neutral + press clutch-in + shift to 1st + (keep clutch-in) + rev on a flat surface = the car does not move.

Car shifts better now. I'm hoping I did the right thing!
Old 09-04-2017, 04:31 PM
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Not that it changes your symptoms, but why did you use DOT 3? I've been using DOT 4, for brakes and clutch --- quite a long time, now.

https://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504571438&sr=8-1&keywords=ate+brake+fluid https://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504571438&sr=8-1&keywords=ate+brake+fluid
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