Clutch adjustment woes
#1
Thread Starter
Clutch adjustment woes
Two weeks ago I replaced my leaking clutch master cylinder with a new Honda OEM unit:
So what does this mean? I need to loosen the adjustment screw and rotate the rod counter-clockwise??
Is the clutch switch always supposed to be engaged at pedal rest?? (Right now it's not engaged/pressed on by the pedal at all). I'm assuming this is the reason the cruise control stopped working?
I'm more frustrated that I can't get any feel of resistance when rotating the rod... Does this mean I went a little too far in getting rid of the free play? When I had it adjusted a little less, every shift felt jerky when I would disengage the clutch.
I've done harder things then this... Sigh.
- Old one leaked for about 25k miles, and I kept clean fluid in it at all times
- Installed new Honda OEM MC
- Bled new MC, new DOT 3 fluid
- Adjusted it per: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rs02...=youtu.be&t=70
- From the video, I was never able to rotate it clockwise and have it feel a resistance -- the whole thing "resisted" and never rotated as freely as in the video
- Made a few adjustments and it felt OK when shifting
- Fast forward two weeks -- today it was 110F outside and I had a passenger for once and I started grinding on the 1st-to-2nd gear shift (about 6+ times -- never happened to me in years)
- Fluid level is still good and clean, no abuse/launches, no leaks or clutch slipping symptoms
- Cruise control is not working either (was working before the new MC)
So what does this mean? I need to loosen the adjustment screw and rotate the rod counter-clockwise??
Is the clutch switch always supposed to be engaged at pedal rest?? (Right now it's not engaged/pressed on by the pedal at all). I'm assuming this is the reason the cruise control stopped working?
I'm more frustrated that I can't get any feel of resistance when rotating the rod... Does this mean I went a little too far in getting rid of the free play? When I had it adjusted a little less, every shift felt jerky when I would disengage the clutch.
I've done harder things then this... Sigh.
#2
Thread Starter
Surprised at the lack of responses. Was my OP too verbose?
Today I loosened the 12mm lock-nut:
- Pressing with my pinky, clutch pedal only has the "good" built-in play from the MC
- I can't spin the rod freely unless the clutch pedal is *slightly* pressed
- I spun the rod counter-clockwise and introduced additional play back in -- now there's the rod play + the built-in play from the MC
- I also had to loosen the 14mm clutch switch nut and back that in almost all the way until the switch is fully pressed (when the clutch is disengaged)
Car shifts better now. I'm hoping I did the right thing!
#3
Not that it changes your symptoms, but why did you use DOT 3? I've been using DOT 4, for brakes and clutch --- quite a long time, now.
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