I just spent an hour trying to find the upper starter bolt.. Finally figured out IT IS NOT THERE!!

I had numerous problems with loose fasteners after the last clutch job done by the Honda dealership. Rattles, broken parts, a slave cylinder that fell off and blew out on the back straight at TWS.. and now I see I am not done with the incompetent, shoddy workmanship. That is one of the reasons I decided to do this myself.

(I retract any recommendation I have made regarding JEH in Dallas).

 

One thing about the steering joint that slides, when putting it back together, besides getting it aligned correctly, be sure to wiggle it while tightening it. If there is any play you will notice it in the wheel while driving. BUT too tight, like I said earlier, makes it a real pain in the butt to slide back off . . . lots of cussing until I got a pry bar, slid it back, took it off completely and then wedged a chisel in it to get more clearance.
And yes it was the dealership that did that one!

 

Chris,

Which clutch did you finally decide on? I'm at 62k miles and am experiencing the same clutch rattle on my ACT clutch(clutch #3).

I think I remember that slave-cylinder breakdown at TWS.

Thanks,
Joe

 

Ironically, after his disaterous first visit to Lute Riley, Clovis reported a very pleasent on his recent (withing past month or so) clutchwork there.

*sigh*

 

Because of this write up and Hurricane Lili, I am replacing the clutch this weekend. I ordered the Helms Manual, but it has not arrived. I think this write up will get me started.

Thanks, excellent writeup!!!

Chip

 

I talked to Clutch Masters today since a number of people expressed some confidence in their product.

They explained that their Stage 3 (Carbon/Kevlar) is designed for high HP and drag racing, not recommended for road racing. According to them the Kevlar material gets too hot from many repeated hard shifts (as compared to drag where there are fewer engagements) an swells a little which can cause problems and shortens its life. Perhaps this is what did in my Star unit. Their recommendation is their Stage 1 which is a strengthened PP and a full faced steel backed organic disk.


King tells me they have had good luck with the Mugen PP and a OEM friction disk for street / track use.

Spoon matches their PP to an organic compound disk as well.

It is becoming more clear that many experienced people believe the use of Kevlar and well as a puck design is not compatible with my use of the car. This was an expensive lesson and I am talking to a lot more people before ordering a replacement clutch.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cdelena
[B]I talked to Clutch Masters today since a number of people expressed some confidence in their product.

They explained that their Stage 3 (Carbon/Kevlar) is designed for high HP and drag racing, not recommended for road racing.

 

4 Battery heat shield, 10mm Last bolt just loosens <------This is important!! If you missed that (like i did) it takes about 30 minutes fumbling around with a open end wrench trying to get it out.

14 Raise car, I recommend at least 24" clearance at body jack points. I managed to get here in 18 min. <--------3 Hours later (my 1st time)

Still going..........

Chip

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by iispms
[B]4

 

Chris, make sure to mark that steering joint clearly. The splines are pretty fine and it's easy to miss by one notch which results in an off-center steering wheel. Not a big deal, but you may as well get it right the first time around

BTW, CS, Awesome write up!