clutch slipping in 1st and 2nd gear
#1
clutch slipping in 1st and 2nd gear
it takes higher revs to reach same speed in both 1st and 2nd gear than before i had clutch master cylinder replaced and a valve adjustment. also slips in hard downshifts from 4th to 3rd. is this something a fluid change would fix or will i probably need a new clutch?
#3
the person who installed it probably ended up just threw it in and called it and day. Go under the steering wheel and adjust the friction point.
You basically have no free play if your clutch was fine and now if its slipping, The guy who installed it basically set the friction point right at the very top of the pedal. You generally want about an 1/2inch to an inch of free play before you feel any resistance in the pedal for this exact reason. Your basically riding the clutch which is very bad. If you dont wana do it, go yell at the place you went to lol.
You basically have no free play if your clutch was fine and now if its slipping, The guy who installed it basically set the friction point right at the very top of the pedal. You generally want about an 1/2inch to an inch of free play before you feel any resistance in the pedal for this exact reason. Your basically riding the clutch which is very bad. If you dont wana do it, go yell at the place you went to lol.
#4
^IIRC, the S2000 calls for 6mm (~1\4") of freeplay with a stock clutch.
1/2" is fine...if you like the engagement a bit lower...or if your aftermarket clutch requires it.
I know it sounds miniscule...but a 1/4" difference is sizeable for pedal travel.
Something to remember, OP...the hydraulic system (including the fluid) is only there to DISengage the clutch. Shitty or air contaminated fluid will not affect the clutch clamping capabilities directly.
1/2" is fine...if you like the engagement a bit lower...or if your aftermarket clutch requires it.
I know it sounds miniscule...but a 1/4" difference is sizeable for pedal travel.
Something to remember, OP...the hydraulic system (including the fluid) is only there to DISengage the clutch. Shitty or air contaminated fluid will not affect the clutch clamping capabilities directly.
#5
Man I freaking love you guys!! Best community ever. Saved me from prematurely replacing the clutch, thank you all.
engagement rod was in the negative, loosened it up to the sweet spot. The master cylinder rod was sticking out really low it seemed so I adjusted that as well, rotated all the way up.
engagement rod was in the negative, loosened it up to the sweet spot. The master cylinder rod was sticking out really low it seemed so I adjusted that as well, rotated all the way up.
#6
Man I freaking love you guys!! Best community ever. Saved me from prematurely replacing the clutch, thank you all.
engagement rod was in the negative, loosened it up to the sweet spot. The master cylinder rod was sticking out really low it seemed so I adjusted that as well, rotated all the way up.
engagement rod was in the negative, loosened it up to the sweet spot. The master cylinder rod was sticking out really low it seemed so I adjusted that as well, rotated all the way up.
#7
^IIRC, the S2000 calls for 6mm (~1\4") of freeplay with a stock clutch.
1/2" is fine...if you like the engagement a bit lower...or if your aftermarket clutch requires it.
I know it sounds miniscule...but a 1/4" difference is sizeable for pedal travel.
Something to remember, OP...the hydraulic system (including the fluid) is only there to DISengage the clutch. Shitty or air contaminated fluid will not affect the clutch clamping capabilities directly.
1/2" is fine...if you like the engagement a bit lower...or if your aftermarket clutch requires it.
I know it sounds miniscule...but a 1/4" difference is sizeable for pedal travel.
Something to remember, OP...the hydraulic system (including the fluid) is only there to DISengage the clutch. Shitty or air contaminated fluid will not affect the clutch clamping capabilities directly.
Even brand new these dam things leak more than my motor burning oil, and it burns a lot oil lmao.
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