Clutch is slipping when shifting at redline... New clutch?
 

2005, 59k miles, pretty sure it's on the original clutch.

My clutch is slipping if I redline the gear and then upshift and slam on the gas. If I ease on the gas, the clutch grips fine.

It would pretty much slip all the way to redline in the next gear, I would have to let go of the gas and let it hook up and get on the gas again. Pretty annoying.

Other than that the clutch grips and doesn't slip.

The clutch pedal engagement is all the way on the top. I had the clutch pedal adjusted and it would lower the pedal engagement point for like a day and then go back to engage at the very top.

I had the clutch master cylinder changed recently because the old one was leaking

Do I need a new clutch or is there something else here?

Its your heavier AP2 flywheel that does that.

AP2 flywheel and CDV will make your clutch slip when shifting too fast. I just make sure I fully release the clutch before hitting the gas, it grabs and goes every time. Although even when I first bought my car and was shifting way too fast it wouldn't keep slipping until redline, maybe for 1k rpm's or so but then it would grab again, so it could be something else, although I only had 20k on my car at the time.

Stop slamming the gears! You aren't racing boy-wonder!

The clutch will feel like it's slipping, because it is, designed to save your transmission from moronic gear slamming driving. Learn to shift properly and you won't experience this.

I think you're doing what is called 'power-shifting' which isn't proper driving.

i do not abuse this car, just drive it the way it was supposed to,

i cannot believe that this problem is normal

there is no way this car should be slipping the clutch all the way to the redline in the next gear.

The cdv is only active for a second or 2 to save the clutch and trans. If under heavy load its slipping all the way to redline on a gearshift then thats not good. Im a bit confused if its the stock clutch or if you said you just replaced it. But if it was replaced you need to baby it for a few hundred miles to get it all situated before thrashing it.

too many things.. maybes...

the ap2 part.. delayed to preserve / save from common shifting errors on the drivers part... don't as you say redline an slam an WOT.. kinda sort not what all the parts are designed for... but...

pressure plate losing clamp.. friction disk glazed... in which case yes plan on a clutchset

new master maybe needs bled idk,,,

do you smell anything, indicating clutch..??

Can you provide a link to the info on how the car is supposed to be driven? I missed it somewhere.....

i smell a burnt clutch

put e-brake up put the car in third give gas and start letting out the clutch if the car wants/stalls ur clutch is fine if not then its burnt/on its way out

This has been discussed many times over the years - the issue is the pressure plate is too weak to hold the flywheel and friction disc together at high rpm. Honda in 2004 put a much heavier flywheel in the car, among other changes. Many people think the CDV removal fixes the slip, but removing the CDV doesn't fix the issue since it is really the PP that is causing the slip.

The easy way to tell if the clutch is slipping is to do the lug test. If the clutch grips fine and only exhibits slip at the redline shifts, then it is the natural behavior of the current PP and flywheel combination. I bet you that if you pop the clutch on a 2-3 shift at 5k rpm, there will be zero slip, but if you do it at 8k rpm, there will be slip because of the grip threshold of the current PP.

The fix generally is to either put in a lighter flywheel (AP1) or a stronger PP (ACT PP), or both. Removing the CDV will make the shifts feel more direct.

Either:
- shift slower, you'll be just as fast and not damage the car
- replace the pp with a firmer one
- replace the flywheel with a lighter one
- replace the flywheel and pp

Remove the CDV with one of these and the car will feel more "direct", but I'd recommend you change the clutch system before you bother with the CDV.

He is 100% correct about this issue and the solution.

EXACTLY the symptoms i have

shifting at 5k is perfect, nothing slips but at 8k it slips!

lets say i want to fix the problem, and not shift slower,

should i might as well replace the clutch, the PP, and Flywheel at the same time because the tranny is out of the car?

If it slips it slips point blank. U need to replace the clutch. Don't waste time with aftermarket cuz the OEM is better than that. If u burned the flywheel u need to replace with a new OEM one and they cannot be resurfaced. Buy a clutch kit from Orielys which is made by Sachs which is good stuff and has lifetime warranty. Replace flywheel from a dealer ordered one and u will be back in business.

I'm the kind of person who'd prefer to pull everything apart once, and I don't have the time to inspect and then order parts, so I'd put all new parts in at the same time, including the throwout bearing and friction disc.

- OEM AP1 flywheel - about 10 pounds lighter than AP2, it will make the engine feel "lighter" and rpm will change quicker
- ACT PP - about twice the grip of OEM, it will bite harder
- Remove CDV - suppresses driveline shock by regulating engagement speed, removing it will speed the clutch engagement

I personally plan to replace my OEM with an AP1 flywheel and ACT PP when it wears out. This seems to be the fix that most people like when staying stock overall with the car. Once I make that chance, I'll decide if I want to remove the CDV.

Side note - you can replace an AP2 clutch slave cylinder with an AP1 unit that does not have the CDV in it, or pull the CDV out of your AP2 unit. If you buy and swap the AP1 unit in, you can go back and forth and test the difference.

cool, thanks a lot

i guess i will be changing the a bunch of components

yeah, the clutch in my 09 is retarded. i have been driving manual tranny cars for over 20 years. this is ridiculous. to say that a 2-3 and 3-4 good shift at redline results in multi second slippage to the next redline is "designed in" or "normal" is just plain bonkers and a TERRIBLE engineering solution. soon i will have to bite the bullet with a stronger pressure plate. at the same time i will get an AP1 flywheel. the current setup is just plain almost un-driveable for me in a 'fun' manner as the shifts are simply horrible. love everything else about the car, but when i first drive it with 1900 miles on it i thought that someone had smoked the clutch and sold the car to me. never would i have guessed honda re designed the AP2 to be driven by my now dead grandmother. oh well. it'll get there ;)

i dont know what happened

but for the past couple days, i was able to shift at full redline with only a little bit of slip of the clutch

felt like everything gripped but the Clutch Delay Valve let it slip just a bit

i guess you learned to drive the car like rob-2 was trying to tell you LOL jk. i've experienced that as well. some days it wont happen and others it will. it all depends how quickly you slam through the gears like everyone was saying.

yuuuup, just learned how to drive... within the past couple days. Even though i was driving a manual car since i was 16 (i am 28 now)

you're right, drove after filling up a full tank and tried to shift quick and the clutch slipped bad. :angry2:

Check there is some play in the pushrod at the master cylinder end. If the rod is adjusted so there is preload on the pushrod the fluid in the clutch circuit cannot find its way back to the reservoir. When things get hot its like resting your foot on the clutch all the time. Can cause the clutch to slip like you describe ( as can too many miles on the clutch).

Thanks I will check it out

Bringing this thread back to life because I'm having the same symptoms... On my AP1! Ever since I purchased it last year at 133k miles. On the carfax it says that it had the transmission replaced at the Honda dealer, so I wonder if they put an AP2 transmission in there. My previous AP1 definitely felt lighter revving and never had the clutch slip at high RPMs...

AFAIK, slipping clutch with revving = worn disc.

I thought this for 20k miles but I just did the handbrake third gear test and I definitely stalled.

Yeah, they may have done the heavier ap2 flywheel, and maybe even the ap2 slave cylinder with the delay valve. These will both have more tendency to slip at high rpm and sudden engagement than ap1.

They may have thought they were doing right for the car by replacing these parts with new. Would have been better to resurface ap1 flywheel and reuse ap1 slave cylinder.

To even confirm the ap2 flywheel will require dropping the trans. But if you live near billman I bet he could tell just from driving it which flywheel it has. He drives so many.

You can tell if they replaced the slave cylinder just by looking under the car. Ap1 is black, ap2 is aluminum.

Just keep an eye on it. I think the CDV may cause a worn clutch to slip a bit sooner, so it may still be getting closer to needing replaced. How many miles are on it? And how far do you have to release the pedal to engage the clutch?

Clutch release point feel pretty normal tbh. Engages just as it should. The only difference is that i dont have the rev limiter spam into redline whenever i change gears quickly at high rpm's. The car is actually driving just as any other manual sports car i've driven. Currently the car has 105k mile on stock clutch (unsure if still original clutch).

Actually the CDV is there to save the diff by placing that strain on the clutch disc so it actually wears the disc out faster. I would delete an AP2's CDV and be attentive to good shifting technique instead.

It's hard to rewire your brain. The proper technique is clutch in all the way, move into neutral then push the gear lever into gear allowing the transmission to swallow the shifter into the gate.

It has to be 1 2 3, but you can do it quickly.

True. Many have learned wrong manual transmission shifting techniques and its hard to unlearn them. If a person can learn to heel/toe, rev match downshifts then they should be able to rewire their brain without too much difficulty ;) :tipwink::drive:

P.S. when I get into my friends' AP2's I can immediately discern the interference of the CDV especially when at WOT, time attack mode lol.

Clutch delay valve removal, lighweight flywheel. Best mods on an S2000 by far. If you dont have these 2 checked off the list you shouldnt be driving an S2k.

Tell that to the AP2 guys ;)